REIDEN-T200 renovation continues - stern top trailing post

[a smile]

Last year, I added a cushion column to the tailseat, made of tetrafluoroethylene, which provides a soft cushion when the tailseat comes into contact with the large trailer. Why do manufacturers ignore the harm of such hard contact in their designs?
Does your lathe tailstock have a rough collision with a large tractor during the push process? What is the quantity? Is this a negligible problem?

Today I removed the cushioning cylinder, took an M10 screw, cut off the inner six cup heads, and lathed a sharp corner to make a positioning punch.

Install into the threaded hole and then strike a positioning hole with the appropriate force.

Use an electric hand drill to drill holes

The tap makes the internal thread

And then I draw on the computer, and I won't have the results until about tomorrow

 

[John Conroy]

Nice job! My lathe (GH1440W) came with a bumper on the cross slide to prevent the tailstock from hitting it. I had to shim the rubber bumper out about 1 mm after I installed the DRO scale on the cross slide to prevent the tail stock from hitting the scale.

 

[a smile]

I think I made a fatal mistake: positioning the tip of the cone without adjusting the verticality caused the center to deviate by 2mm

 

[a smile]

I drew the finished outline using EDM and finished it up

 

[Susquatch]

My lathe (GH1440W) came with a bumper on the cross slide to prevent the tailstock from hitting it. I had to shim the rubber bumper out about 1 mm after I installed the DRO scale on the cross slide to prevent the tail stock from hitting the scale.

Nice John!

My lathe didn't come with a bumper at all. In fact, this issue is what stopped me from installing a DRO. I don't want to be banging my tailstock against a scale. A bumper would have solved that problem.

Instead, I decided to put the scale inside the carriage. I still think inside is an elegant solution, but that shouldn't stop me from making a bumper like @a smile did.

The basic problem is that I sometimes use the saddle as an index stop for the tailstock when deep drilling or reaming.

 

[Stuart Samuel]

The basic problem is that I sometimes use the saddle as an index stop for the tailstock when deep drilling or reaming.

Same. I find it a convenient way to, say, peck drill, or perform a small run of identical parts. As long as the bumper was hard enough to register consistently (say, UHMW polyethylene), it’d still work.

 

[Susquatch]

As long as the bumper was hard enough to register consistently (say, UHMW polyethylene), it’d still work.

Thank you for adding that Stuart. I have been concerned about that consistency and am glad to hear that you are happy with UHMW polyethylene.

 

[Stuart Samuel]

Thank you for adding that Stuart. I have been concerned about that consistency and am glad to hear that you are happy with UHMW polyethylene.

Just a guess! Haven’t tried this, and I’m sure there’s give to UHMW (and everything else, for that matter), it would depend on the force applied, and how repeatable you wanted it.

 

[Susquatch]

Just a guess! Haven’t tried this, and I’m sure there’s give to UHMW (and everything else, for that matter), it would depend on the force applied, and how repeatable you wanted it.

I'm ok with some give. After all, even steel has give. I'd actually like a little give to prevent damaging the saddle. I'd just like it to be reasonable so I can use it as a register for tailstock positioning. Doesn't have to be sub thou or even several thou. Just close enough. Your experience is good enough for me. If I do it and don't like it, I won't even stick any pins in my Stuart doll. I'll just try something else and carry on.

 

[a smile]

I think "double whammy" is a good illustration of my current situation. After I make a simple mistake, I inevitably get a more serious one.
Because of repunching, I punched through the cable channel of the big drag board, which caused the control cable to break some, and re-purchased the cable to replace it today.