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Supplies Picatinny cutting tools?

Supplies
B

bigHUN

Member
I have a winter project for my airguns, also a friend with machine shop, but he have no these specialty tools. I was looking online to buy a set, the prices are insane. Also the 7x series aluminum prices are up in the sky.
Anybody have a good source to point me to? I would like to get a "made" cutter instead of tricking with multiple side setups.
I need Picatinny/NATO specs on my parts.
 

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Use 6000 instead of 7000 series. 7000 is more brittle and can fracture if you stress it too hard (ie fall on it), 6000 will give. 6000 is a lot cheaper and more readily available.
 
I did not know they made a specific form tool for that. All of the Picatinney rails that I've made, I've used one of the two tools shown below. And more often than not, the face-mill.
 

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If its not available commercially (at a sensible price), make one. I've made lots of special cutting tools, taps etc over the years; bit of O1 drill rod, propane/air and can of old oil is all you need. Perfection requires relieving, but a workable cutter can be made by milling/filing away all but the smallest of lands behind the cutting edge.
 
Never made my own picatinny rail. No idea why. Easier to just buy them I guess. No time better than the present.

I would imagine bulk rail would still require fitting to the receiver. Of course I usually bed that too so perhaps it's no big deal.

Gunna check out those tools @Chicken lights .
 
Susquatch said:
Hey @Chicken lights , did you read the description for any of those cutters? It's hilarious! I'd cut and paste but better to just link......

3 Flute Rail Cutters | Gorilla Mill

Based in Milwaukee, WI – Gorilla Mill has over 30 years experience manufacturing the best carbide drills, end mills and cutting tools in the industry.
gorillamill.com gorillamill.com
Click to expand...
I got a chuckle out of them, they sound like they’re pretty tough and the company is proud of them :D
 
Many of you made a valid point.
Buying a finished rail is a most cheapest option, but getting complicated attaching multiple parts. I still need to outsource the mounting.
Yes, this is for an airgun, but :) it is a high precision for shooting and scoring target rings at longer ranges @ 100 and 150 meters.
Thank you ALL.
 
DPittman said:
Maybe I'm missing something but I've made several short lengths of a picatiny rail for airguns using just regular old end mills and they work just fine.
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I see no problem making one using regular old end mills either. It's just a matter of the tedium of doing so vs the cost of just buying one. They are so common nowadays that they can be had almost anywhere.

That said, I am still a bit dumbfounded that I never have. An even a bigger mystery to me is why haven't I made any picatinny rings? Perhaps it's just the crappiness of my previous mills, and it's now time. I don't need a rail cuz I have lots of spares, but I prolly need rings (TBD based on scope delivery next week). A nice beefy pair of 6 screw rings are calling me right now.
 
The "blanks" that I have bought all have a flat base that can be cut to fit whatever action dia curve we would need. I doubt if you could source a cutter made specifically for your airgun tube without going to a custom tool& cutter maker at mega bucks per.
I cut the base contour with an adjustable boring head. secure the pickatinni standing upright to a mill table and drop a rotating bore cutter so that it cuts 1/2 moon profile that fits the action I'm using...or... to simplify the operation I just cut a slot length-wise in the blank base centered on mounting holes so the square cut edge rests on the curve of action dead straight to direction I want it too. Cut the channel to a depth that allows the center of the trough to be drawn up tight to the action at the apex of the curve when screws drawn tight....I have used this type of cut on some quite heavy recoiling rifles like 45-90.
It might surprise some here that an airgun will destroy a high quality scope that would sit on a modern center fire rifle for years...that mechanical metal on metal strike of the spring transmits through the metal with a sharp crack to the scope.
 
my thought on making these are as follows 45 deg dovetail cutter 45 deg champher mill and an end mill smaller than the slot width, moving it side to side to get the slot dimension
this has worked well for me when a pre made blank rail is delayed that said a blank is the way to go
 
historicalarms said:
It might surprise some here that an airgun will destroy a high quality scope that would sit on a modern center fire rifle for years...that mechanical metal on metal strike of the spring transmits through the metal with a sharp crack to the scope.
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I have destroyed a few quality scopes myself that way. Even a few specifically rated for high powered springers.

But I always thought it was the reverse nature (backward recoil direction) of that "sharp crack" you mention that did the damage. I have personally seen many a scope slowly move backward due to that impact. Even pinning does not always work.
 
Susquatch said:
But I always thought it was the reverse nature (backward recoil direction) of that "sharp crack" you mention that did the damage. I have personally seen many a scope slowly move backward due to that impact. Even pinning does not always work.
Click to expand...
I think you and @historicalarms
are explaining the same concept. A powder burner has recoil only towards the shooter, a springed shooter first has the force of the piston/spring pushing toward the shooter, then when the piston comes to a sudden stop at the front there is then the forward recoil that a powder burner does not have.
 
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