• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

New tools

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
431255B1-5B08-40AA-A344-0061B65AE005.jpeg

Stopped in to a Sowa branch yesterday.
Countersink, spotting drill, wall chart and pocket drill chart, 1/4 to 1/2 NC taps and dies, plus a drill case with the right size drills for the taps, and a couple tap n die handles
 
9D3E7C0C-3403-4558-8715-3107D9E24A5E.jpeg
6F03940C-AF2C-43E4-B1BA-08634B304442.jpeg


Aaannnddd my 3/8 NPT tap still doesn’t fit the handle. Just by a hair, too.

The number 1 handle has a notch on both sides so it can accept up to a 1/2” tap, I wonder if that’s what I should do to the #3 handle?

That’s annoying, pretty sure the guy said a #3 should accept up to a 1/2” NPT tap.
 
C3A68123-429A-4422-8BE4-F18FAA5DB97F.jpeg

I’ve never used one of these in metal before, I’ve got some holes that need deburring, in stainless.

I’m not really sure on what sort of speed to fire this up at?
Use cutting fluid?
How “grabby” is this gonna be? Should the piece be in a vise or is free handing it ok?
 
The number 1 handle has a notch on both sides so it can accept up to a 1/2” tap, I wonder if that’s what I should do to the #3 handle?

I would. Looks like you will not have to take off much.
Use an endmill - if you have them, as a drill will just wander off. Or use a burr in a die grinder.
 
I would. Looks like you will not have to take off much.
Use an endmill - if you have them, as a drill will just wander off. Or use a burr in a die grinder.
I think I’ll run that into town and have a machinist nip that out with a mill

The guy at Sowa looked at me funny when I asked about using an end mill in a drill press...
 
I’m not really sure on what sort of speed to fire this up at?
Use cutting fluid?
How “grabby” is this gonna be? Should the piece be in a vise or is free handing it ok?

I usually run those things at around 160-200 rpm in my mill with the part still clamped and cutting fluid (that is usually still there from the drilling operation).

I do occasionally use them “freehand” in a cordless drill with the part clamped to something - unless it is a huge part that stays put by itself under its own weight.
 
I think I’ll run that into town and have a machinist nip that out with a mill

The guy at Sowa looked at me funny when I asked about using an end mill in a drill press...

The problem with a drill press is usually the run out of the spindle. It can snap the smaller end mills right off if you try to use a center cutting end mill like a drill. Also, a drill press spindle is not designed to take side loads like a spindle on a milling machine.
 
What is the Sowa branch?

Are those countersinks Guhring brand by chance? They typically have a shorter head like that. I was ready to try some but the places that carry them seem to be pickup orientated so I ended up trying some Ebay specials which I wasnt holding high hopes for but they are OK.

You can freehand them I suppose on super light deburring) or spin them in a cordless drill. For best results they like a rigid setup that minimizes drawing the cutter into the work, slow rpm & cutting fluid. If you get a weird looking serrated finish that starts to develop & feed on itself, then its probably some or all the aforementioned factors. I was just using them in 303 stainless the other day, chamferring 0.050" DOC & they did an excellent job.
 
What is the Sowa branch?

Are those countersinks Guhring brand by chance? They typically have a shorter head like that. I was ready to try some but the places that carry them seem to be pickup orientated so I ended up trying some Ebay specials which I wasnt holding high hopes for but they are OK.

You can freehand them I suppose on super light deburring) or spin them in a cordless drill. For best results they like a rigid setup that minimizes drawing the cutter into the work, slow rpm & cutting fluid. If you get a weird looking serrated finish that starts to develop & feed on itself, then its probably some or all the aforementioned factors. I was just using them in 303 stainless the other day, chamferring 0.050" DOC & they did an excellent job.
932764DE-2B4E-456C-855F-1A680670DB36.png

That’s the address for the Edmonton branch. I went to one in Ontario.

I don’t believe it’s a Guhring, I was told they’re made in France, and the one I got has 3% cobalt. Its a 90 degree cut, instead of an 82 degree. I don’t honestly know what the 8 degrees difference means.

The countersink was right about $55.
 
53CFF348-9D6C-41CE-BE7D-53E2DBFCDC77.jpeg
533E7283-61AC-4FBD-97B3-BC0DA4E4AFFB.jpeg
6849CCD6-D907-4A8D-B2F8-C10E898D1A70.jpeg
3C3DAB73-E585-4AB8-B5EB-DDC2B92A12DA.jpeg

Picked up this little tool box last year to start keeping cutting tools organized. Cut out drawer liners for it today and put everything away neatly
 
Its a 90 degree cut, instead of an 82 degree. I don’t honestly know what the 8 degrees difference means

They come in all flavors, 60, 90, 120, 142 are common for various centering operations. Typically select the center drill angle with equal or greater angle to the drill point. So for example 120-deg spot drill for 118-deg twist drill. Its undesirable to spot with a lesser angle than the drill. 82-deg angle I believe is to match the head angle of a common flat head screw. Some guys use center drills as light chamferring tools in milling too, but I have never tried it myself.

Thanks for the Sowa information, that makes sense now.
 
I came across the various angles of countersinks when making a small cover for a friend's dad's motorbike. There was this PDF that explained it a bit for me, mentioning that apparently 82 degrees is common for flat head screws, 100 degrees for thin materials like sheet metal (with accompanying angle screw head bottoms) and apparently Metric flat heads use 90 degrees. Clear as mud, right, lol? Here's the link:

https://www.fastenersuperstore.com/fastener-guides/screws-head-styles-guide

I've never been to the Sowa branch here in Edmonton, might be worth a look. Then again, it might be dangerous . . . like going to Princess Auto, only pricier . . .
 
I think I’ll run that into town and have a machinist nip that out with a mill

The guy at Sowa looked at me funny when I asked about using an end mill in a drill press...

Or you could just "touch" two of the opposing "ground sections" at the square drives to a sander/grinder so they clear...saves a trip to town. The ground section is immaterial to use of the tap.
 
Back
Top