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Shop New shop door needed

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Well this morning one of the two springs on my 12'x10' shop door let go. Now it requires two people to open it. This door is 40 years old and heavy as hell. Called local HH to price out a new one, this will be an expense i hadn't planned on. Back before xmas i talked to a local contractor about a remote opener for this door and he said no go. This style of door with the springs over head on the ceiling isn't used anymore. I can't find the book for the door so no idea of make or model either.
 
How cheap do you want to be ? I've rigged up counterweight setups to open very heavy all steel door/gates before, just a couple pulleys, a bit of cable and a few concrete blocks or steel plates
 
This style of door with the springs over head on the ceiling isn't used anymore.
A door like this? I've seen flat one piece, sliding and bifold doors all with openers on them I would think as long as you have the headroom an opener could be a possibility?
 

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I recent got a roll-up for my new shop, similar size:
1676492987419.webp

I don't know if that's in your acceptable range. I do very much like this rollup rather than the overhead rails.

Alternately, can you replace the spring?
 
There has to be a door repair place around that can do that it probably happens quite often I would think.
 
I recent got a roll-up for my new shop, similar size:
That price isn't bad, a buddy of mine spend 10 grand on a 12'x12'. Didn't want to spend that much right now as i have other expenses coming up this spring. 2-3 thou i can live with. One of my boys has a spare spring in Kindersley, if a new door is going to be a long wait.
The old door is getting pretty rough, due for replacement.
There has to be a door repair place around that can do that it probably happens quite often I would think.
I live out in the boonies, there are door places 100 miles away. Charges for travel are a big thing these days with the cost of fuel.
 
A door like this? I've seen flat one piece, sliding and bifold doors all with openers on them I would think as long as you have the headroom an opener could be a possibility?
If it’s that style of spring, you can easily replace it yourself. It’s been a couple years since I’ve done one, but basically you pre-load the spring, to give you the spring assist to open it. Couple of steel rods and some vice grips is what memory says I used, maybe a wrench for the locking bolts
 
If it’s that style of spring, you can easily replace it yourself. It’s been a couple years since I’ve done one, but basically you pre-load the spring, to give you the spring assist to open it. Couple of steel rods and some vice grips is what memory says I used, maybe a wrench for the locking bolts
There are YouTube videos that show how to do it. I fixed mine several years ago but now the shaft the spring is on broke. In my case I think its going to take more than just replacing the shaft. It seems the rails have become misaligned and thats probably why the shaft broke in the first place. Another project on my long list!!!
 
If it’s that style of spring, you can easily replace it yourself. It’s been a couple years since I’ve done one, but basically you pre-load the spring, to give you the spring assist to open it. Couple of steel rods and some vice grips is what memory says I used, maybe a wrench for the locking bolts
I’ve done this before, won’t do it again….. risk vs reward.

@DPittman is right, couple of steel rods however make sure they are a close fit to the holes, A hunk of rebar is not ok….. after speaking to a number of door service guys, cracked skull/orbital socket is common if that bar comes out.

That, and missing fingers/thumbs.

But it is a doable job if you plan it right.

I hear ya on the service cost in the boonies. This summer I bent in the bottom panel on my 12x10 door with the tractor ROPS. Had a service guy out, he removed that panel, straightened it, lubed/inspected all the rollers and it was $180. (Just outside Calgary).

Now, living in eastern SK….. I wouldn’t know where to start
 
I’ve done this before, won’t do it again….. risk vs reward.

@DPittman is right, couple of steel rods however make sure they are a close fit to the holes, A hunk of rebar is not ok….. after speaking to a number of door service guys, cracked skull/orbital socket is common if that bar comes out.

That, and missing fingers/thumbs.

But it is a doable job if you plan it right.

...
Most things in my shop are dangerous if not done correctly. This wouldn't be the only one.
 
Well this morning one of the two springs on my 12'x10' shop door let go. Now it requires two people to open it. This door is 40 years old and heavy as hell. Called local HH to price out a new one, this will be an expense i hadn't planned on. Back before xmas i talked to a local contractor about a remote opener for this door and he said no go. This style of door with the springs over head on the ceiling isn't used anymore. I can't find the book for the door so no idea of make or model either.

Springs are sized by door weight and opening height. There are tables to select the correct ones. Since one let go, I would get a new PAIR. Door suppliers can get them for you.

I agree with others that working with door springs is no joke and must be done very methodically with proper steel rods. When I installed the 14’X14’, 3” thick door in our shop, I made my own rods from 1045 carbon steel for a snug sliding fit into the spider bores. I made them 3 feet long for good leverage/control. I used scaffolding for proper foot support. Took a bit of time, but it was straight forward and safe - went back to fine tune the tension after a month or so of use. This was my third spring install/replacement.
 
I tried to get a opener for the door before xmas, no go they said that i couldn't put an opener on the style of door i have. So hence my desire for a new door with an opener, plus the old door is getting very tired., Like me.:rolleyes:
 
Couple of things, opener can be installed on your door if its balanced (ie your springs work).

As to the springs, any competent door shop should be able to replace them, you could even do them yourself. That said don't do it yourself, while there are a lot of dangerous and stupid things we do in our shops, winding up door springs shouldn't be one of them. They have a nasty habit of unwinding, breaking, wacking the living s@$t out the winder and so on, pay some idiot (I meant to say brave soul) to do this for you.

For the best results video is required should the wacking happen as it pays for your spring after posting on YouTube.

If you don't listen to this advise, please video as you can still post it and recover your medical bill, and the rest of us get a good laugh :D.
 
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Yes i do remember the guy that installed the door many years ago told us not to screw around with the springs. Said guys had been seriously hurt by them.
 
I tried to get a opener for the door before xmas, no go they said that i couldn't put an opener on the style of door i have. So hence my desire for a new door with an opener, plus the old door is getting very tired., Like me.:rolleyes:

Look into lift master. They make openers that install on an extension of the spring bar. I think my doors are 14w x 16h insulated panel doors. A lift master lifts them fine.
 
Most garage doors are opened by very low hp motors even big commercial doors, reason for this is counter balance be it wts or springs. Set up correctly the door should remain in an position it is left. Perfect balance.

If you struggle to open or close the door, so does the operator, you open/close it easily with one hand so does the operator.

BTW I wasn't gifted this knowledge or worked in the industry, I did the uncommon thing, read the manual :cool:
 
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