• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Need a Dro what one to get

YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Well...…. your experience is a little different than mine when it comes to cutting glass scales. When I cut my scale on the bandsaw the glass shattered a good 1.5" back from where the cut was made:mad:. I'm going to have to fill behind the end cap to keep the reader from running off the end of the fractured glass part. It still appears to work ok, just a little less reader reach than I had anticipated.

View attachment 10407

View attachment 10408

You have to look hard for the fragments but you can see how the glass scale shattered rather than cut clean.
Click to expand...

Argh! I’m sorry that happened.
If the scale goes across the full width of the table there is 2.5” of table at each end that is not usable because there are no T-slots.
bc5ce8c62614e7158a56f9ded3732b8a.jpg


The is the reader head relative to the end of the scale with the table extended as far as it can go in this direction.
514368ce28af29511e22ac7c427281a8.jpg



This is the table cranked almost to the end of the range the other direction. At this point the spindle is no longer over the T-slots.
f8cad81daccdab27879b66dbca8cfb1d.jpg


This is the position of the reader head at this end of the range.
bf25315d8546d3a989a9055f808a0a0a.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@David_R8 how did you mount your scale in the bandsaw? I'm wondering now if I didn't set myself up for a fail by how I mounted it in the saw. I mounted it reader up.
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
@David_R8 how did you mount your scale in the bandsaw? I'm wondering now if I didn't set myself up for a fail by how I mounted it in the saw. I mounted it reader up.
Click to expand...

I mounted it with the glass horizontal.
My thinking was that maybe the blade would score the glass enough so that it would just snap off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The best way would have been to cut the enclosure, then nick the scale with a file and snap it off by hand.
 
Well...….. now we know how not to do it:(

KEEPER.JPG


On another note.... are you supposed to leave these things on the scales or take them off? I thought they were just shipping keepers.
 
David_R8 said:
Mine are still in but I intend to take them out. Though I cannot see what harm would come if left in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I think they are just for shipping, mine stay on when it slides one way but come off when slid the other way.
 
I took mine out. I used it for alignment (spacing ) but that is all



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Anyone know how sensitive the scales and heads are to being a bit off, as in not perfectly in line with the movement?
 
They've got a bit of slop in them, but I wouldn't force them in any way or you're likely to break the scale.
 
DPittman said:
Anyone know how sensitive the scales and heads are to being a bit off, as in not perfectly in line with the movement?
Click to expand...

Do you get any indication of things being out-of-wack when you run one axis from stop to stop? Those things measure to 0.000x. Just tightening the Gibb locks will cause them to twitch.
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Do you get any indication of things being out-of-wack when you run one axis from stop to stop? Those things measure to 0.000x. Just tightening the Gibb locks will cause them to twitch.
Click to expand...
I don't notice anything but on setup I had one scale so cockeyed that the mounting brackets twisted out of adjustment (obviously wrong adjustment), I was amazed that I hadn't busted the damn thing all to hell. The reader head seems to have some spring to it and that may help prevent breaks but I do t see how that wouldn’t adversely affect accuracy?
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Do you get any indication of things being out-of-wack when you run one axis from stop to stop? Those things measure to 0.000x. Just tightening the Gibb locks will cause them to twitch.
Click to expand...

I don’t have any weird readings the length of x and y. Cranking down the gib locks does cause a bit of an increase but I tend to run my gibs on the snug side. Where I see the most variation is locking the quill.
I suspect that it might be partly because my z scale is further away from the centre line of the spindle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
David_R8 said:
I don’t have any weird readings the length of x and y. Cranking down the gib locks does cause a bit of an increase but I tend to run my gibs on the snug side. Where I see the most variation is locking the quill.
I suspect that it might be partly because my z scale is further away from the centre line of the spindle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yup, when I installed a DRO on my mini-mill locking the z-axis caused the most amount of variation. Nothing beyond 0.00x though. A dull end mill would cause the last digits to jump all over the place. I wish they made these things to allow you to control how many digits are displayed.
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Yup, when I installed a DRO on my mini-mill locking the z-axis caused the most amount of variation. Nothing beyond 0.00x though. A dull end mill would cause the last digits to jump all over the place. I wish they made these things to allow you to control how many digits are displayed.
Click to expand...

That’s why tape was invented ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top