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Need a Dro what one to get

thriller007

thriller007

Well-Known Member
Have a Craftex Cx-601 that has 14” travel on the Z 11.5” in either direction on the X and 8.5” on the Y.
What inexpensive dro do you recommend and what are the correct scales? Also if it gets orders from China then will it make it here?
 
I got the ones that are on the CX605 from AliExpress and they shipped quick but that was before this Covid crisis.

I'll be looking to get a set for RF30 from the same outfit when I'm at that point. I'll see if I can get you a link. The choices available will make your head spin.

Craig

These guys https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32848258811.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.913f21f2qDpoJ9&algo_pvid=4642e8e2-5861-49cd-b9ab-13cec99d97e5&algo_expid=4642e8e2-5861-49cd-b9ab-13cec99d97e5-36&btsid=0ab6f82215914577564405393e43b0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

It was a really quick and easy purchase. No regrets.
 
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I did a quick look on aliexpress. The one I saw had free shipping through DHL or UPS. I‘d avoid UPS!
Check with DHL on what to expect. Everything coming by ordinary mail doesn’t seem to be moving.
Definitely get 3 axis.
 
Ha ha I was just researching the same for my new mill also and was going to post the same question. The info so far offered above has been helpful. I'm pleasantly surprised how cheap (under $300) a full 3 axis system can cost. Is there any downside to the lcd screen...don't they eventually burn in/out after many years? I know nothing last for ever and maybe I'm not being reasonable.
 
DPittman said:
Ha ha I was just researching the same for my new mill also and was going to post the same question. The info so far offered above has been helpful. I'm pleasantly surprised how cheap (under $300) a full 3 axis system can cost. Is there any downside to the lcd screen...don't they eventually burn in/out after many years? I know nothing last for ever and maybe I'm not being reasonable.
Click to expand...

I’ve had mine on for hours on end and can’t detect any burn in. There’s a button on the front that turns off the display but maintains the readings.


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Has anyone here installed a dro on a 6x26 mill? I would be interested in seeing pictures of the installation.
 
aliexpress - if you get UPS sign up for border bee service so you don't pay huge import fees.

There is no reason I can think of getting a US made or expensive DRO even for bigger machines or more professional setup. Maybe it matters for accuracy of sub 1 tenth or something but definitely not for BP style mill application. Chinese stuff works great and DRO has many functions.
 
Tom Kitta said:
aliexpress - if you get UPS sign up for border bee service so you don't pay huge import fees.

There is no reason I can think of getting a US made or expensive DRO even for bigger machines or more professional setup. Maybe it matters for accuracy of sub 1 tenth or something but definitely not for BP style mill application. Chinese stuff works great and DRO has many functions.
Click to expand...

I didn’t pay any fees when I bought my DRO from AliExpress.


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DPittman said:
Ha ha I was just researching the same for my new mill also and was going to post the same question. The info so far offered above has been helpful. I'm pleasantly surprised how cheap (under $300) a full 3 axis system can cost. Is there any downside to the lcd screen...don't they eventually burn in/out after many years? I know nothing last for ever and maybe I'm not being reasonable.
Click to expand...
What machine did you get?
 
thriller007 said:
Have a Craftex Cx-601 that has 14” travel on the Z 11.5” in either direction on the X and 8.5” on the Y.
What inexpensive dro do you recommend and what are the correct scales? Also if it gets orders from China then will it make it here?
Click to expand...

I guess I need clarification on what DRO lengths I have to order for my machine. Might as well do @YYCHobbyMachinist machine as well unless he already knows. When they have the length listed is that how much travel or is that total length including the ends?
 
thriller007 said:
Have a Craftex Cx-601 that has 14” travel on the Z 11.5” in either direction on the X and 8.5” on the Y.
What inexpensive dro do you recommend and what are the correct scales? Also if it gets orders from China then will it make it here?
Click to expand...

Boy that machine of yours has a lot of travel. Something to be aware of is that you might loose a scales width of Y-axis travel. I lost a little on the CX605. The scale bumps into the column before full Y can be achieved.

Craig
 
Man I hate navigating AliExpress. Too many choices and by the time you have something in your cart your not sure what you ended up selecting.

@David_R8 Why the LCD one? How is it easier to navigate?

Craig
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Man I hate navigating AliExpress. Too many choices and by the time you have something in your cart your not sure what you ended up selecting.

@David_R8 Why the LCD one? How is it easier to navigate?

Craig
Click to expand...

The display when you’re programming bolt circles, linear hole, arcs or plane is just so easy to navigate.

f166b41bf9905d0032b5ac68f87f8ef4.jpg

Here you move between the fields using the four arrows just visible on the right side. Below I programmed four holes in a quarter circle on 4” radius. That took 15 seconds or so.
d56e906c3206289e629c9feec49e150f.jpg


bda7c59be79351a998716b415fbf5689.jpg


530800180618ab74bb2d5d05c3652f3c.jpg


02463203c1d126fb8268310d3c96128d.jpg


95833ed9cd44468e6aa104937821dc33.jpg

The F1, F2, F3 etc buttons correspond to the data entry fields on the screen or are used to select different values such as which plane on the incline plane program. F2 selects the XY, F3 selects XZ etc.

I just really prefer the graphical layout plus the numbers are nice and easy to read.
The red button in the lower right turns off the display but doesn’t shut off the unit.


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Well I may have to go that way. Overhead light or light behind the operator doesn't wash the screen out? My recollection of LCD was that some conditions washed out the display.
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
Well I may have to go that way. Overhead light or light behind the operator doesn't wash the screen out? My recollection of LCD was that some conditions washed out the display.
Click to expand...

The screen is very bright with good contrast.
I’m very happy with the system. My X-axis scale was too long (because I measured wrong...) and I cut it using my horizontal bandsaw. Just put it in and cut it. No fuss. The scale didn’t shatter, I needed to make some clearance for the end cap to fit back on so I just nibbled the glass away with needle nose pliers.
Putting the end cap back on was a trick though as I had to drill and tap for some teeny holes. No idea what size they were, I just picked a tap that was close. I broke it off of course so I ended up using epoxy to hold the cap on. Works fine.


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