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"Name that noise". Standard Modern Series 2000

JeffD

Member
Premium Member
Morning all.
Here is the noise that I have been referring to. Sorry I couldn't figure out how to attach a video so I went this route.
It is most noisy at the back of the machine. Noise completely goes away when both gear selectors are in neutral.


 
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Here is the inside of your lathe. You have 2 ball bearings (blue arrows). There is a key (red arrow) mine was fractured at one end. There is the gear that is pinned to the other gears (green) that could be loose and then, depending on your speed selection, is the small gear (yellow circle) that drives the assembly for 50 RPM. This gear wears as a lot of these lathes were turning slow for parting etc.

You can check all those places. Also, on the front of the lathe, held in place by a set screw (accessible with the lid removed red circle below) is the “cup” that sets the front ball bearing of the shaft’s location. If this is loose there might have been some shift in gear alignment
IMG_8152.jpeg

Red arrow is the big bull gear. Mine had a tooth missing, but Infixed that issue.
 
Thanks Brent.
I am going to tackle this on the weekend. I have been speaking with Danzo187, and he has schooled me on the removal of the main gear, but what kind of job is it to get the intermediate shaft out? I have two new bearings for it, and It would be best to replace them when I am that far into it!
 
@JeffD

Read on from here as I pull the lathe all apart:

 
@Susquatch - getting there! Just finishing up a tile job (about 230 sqft) and I can get the powder room, laundry and hall entry running. Then it should be back to play time! I have electrical to finish up and then the lathes and mill will be running again!! I have a hay bailer to make some parts for and a few other items for the side by side etc
 
IMG_6359.jpeg


@JeffD the biggest pain to the shaft removal - red arrow and take off the driven pulley. Then behind that is the plate (yellow arrow) that seals the drive shaft and the access to the bearings you wish to pull. There is a cup seal for the drive shaft and possibly a gasket for the bearing seal. This gasket might have been changed to liquid type if someone has been in the lathe before. It is a thin 1/16” paper gasket. Anyway, bearing spacer (14) and then the shaft etc. I believe when I pulled things apart I moved the shaft back and the back bearing came out, I used a puller to pop it off the shaft and was then able to remove the whole assembly out of the gear box and then pull the front bearing. Assembly is reverse order. The drive shaft has a sintered bushing (11) and the ball bearing (7). The seal for the drive shaft (5) rides on a needle bearing liner (6). I guess this was to protect the regular shaft. I have sourced all of these parts - if you run into trouble let me know.
 
@Susquatch - getting there! Just finishing up a tile job (about 230 sqft) and I can get the powder room, laundry and hall entry running. Then it should be back to play time! I have electrical to finish up and then the lathes and mill will be running again!! I have a hay bailer to make some parts for and a few other items for the side by side etc
.... well, whatcha waiting for? Get at it already......sheesh, you would think that he was retired or somethin'....:rolleyes:


Damn..... I thought @Tom O 's couch was here, now what the heck do I hide behind?:eek:

Gotcher Back Don - Susq

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Last edited by a moderator:
Morning all.
Here is the noise that I have been referring to. Sorry I couldn't figure out how to attach a video so I went this route.
It is most noisy at the back of the machine. Noise completely goes away when both gear selectors are in neutral.


Jeff
just saw your video.....HMMMMM.....my SM series 2000 13" sounds just like that in low gears ,now you can understand why I tore it apart.....well still trying to figure out the intermediate shaft removal process
 
Jeff
just saw your video.....HMMMMM.....my SM series 2000 13" sounds just like that in low gears ,now you can understand why I tore it apart.....well still trying to figure out the intermediate shaft removal process
Morning Danzo. Once I replaced the two bearings on the intermediate shaft the noise went away. Where you able to get the shaft out? I had to make a spacer with the OD smaller than the gear box, then split it in half so you can install it on the shaft
IMG_0325.jpg
in order to get enough travel for the bearing to clear the hole on the back of the lathe. Then when you get it cleared, you have to pull the bearing off the shaft. Then you can remove the intermediate. Also when you are removing the indeterminate shaft the pulley shaft will come with it, and you can replace those gears as well. Let me know if I can help.
 
Jeff,
put the new bearings in my SM this is 137 rpm and 1500 rpm, clicking is the tooth fix and the long windup is the RPC ,it sounds a lot worse on the video then at the machine.
also on the plus side, on the chuck side of the intermediate shaft, that is a plug in back of the bearing, makes taking out and installing the shaft nice.
Dan
also, here's my shop for sale $2.50 a pound, I'm only 3 hours south of Sherbrook, Quebec, ya never know who's going to see this.
 
Morning Dan. It sounds the same as mine. Did you replace the oilite and ball bearing on the pulley shaft when you had it apart? I was wondering how to get the oilite bushing out of the case? I seen the recess on the front of the machine for the intermediate shaft bearing, but I didn’t know it was removable. Well done!!
 
morning Jeff, once you get the bearing off the pully shaft use the pully shaft to push oilite bushing out towards chuck ,it will come out with no damage, reverse to install
 
I have the bushing and bearing on order for the pulley shaft. I should have had them in stock before I pulled it apart the first time. So the cap that covers the front bearing on the intermediate shaft is removable from the outside?
 
yes ,I just drove intermediate shaft towards chuck,the gear side bearing stayed in place and the shaft pushed the bearing and plug out
 
@JeffD and @Danzo187 : there is a set screw that locks the front cap in place. Be sure to have it backed out before trying to drive the shaft into it. This cap locates the shaft bearing so you can make sure the gear mesh is correct by making sure this cap is located properly.
 
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