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Multi-purpose metrology, assembly and engraving workbench

TorontoBuilder

Ultra Member
Now that my friend's woodworking shop is nearing completion I can get to a project I'm overdue to complete.

In the space constrained environment of my townhouse I need to use any available space for many different purposes. The dining room table is no longer an option for multiday projects.

So, I purchased a Flexispot E7 Plus 4-leg Standing Desk which is an adjustable height desk with four height presets. It can support (and lift) 540 pounds, but I'll not over tax it by loading up too much in the way of permanent fixtures.

The frame can accept a taop from 28 - 35" deep by 47 - 80" wide.

I have a 2" thick top of maple butcher top 27" x 57" that I can have for free, which I've drawn up a plan to add a perimeter to increase the size to fit the legs. I am not sold that it is wide enough for all my possible uses. But for now it helps plan what accessories etc I need.

I plan to do fussy assembly work and really need support for my forearms for this task, and extended typing sessions as well as for engraving so arm rests are such an essential item that I'll have a few sets of fully adjustable rests.

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It is really annoying using an engraving ball vise that is elevated above the work surface for long periods of time. The same applies to engraving wood plates perched on top of sand bags. Really fancy work stations have wells so such accessories can sit below the main desk top. I need a large flat area, so I needed an alternative for the limited times I engrave or carve stone and wood. I think an add-on option will work well enough.

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The empty voids on the sides are for tool drawers. I'll be making a vacuum slot/port that goes in the rear face to whisk away dust and chips for when I'm carving.

Another idea is to router a 1/2" deep oval in the top for different inserts... one with black leather and drafting table vinyl sides for fine work on old camera shutters, assembling small tools... where you don't want anything to get scratched or dropped parts to bounce away like crazy.

A soapstone insert that is heat and chemical resistant to silver solder over, smelt small volumes of silver and gold for jewelry making...

One granite insert for tool sharpening... with emery cloth affixed to surface.

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Taller than normal table height and an office chair so you can adjust your working? One of issues with a multi-purpose, close-work bench is being able to sit at optimal height for the task at hand.
 
Taller than normal table height and an office chair so you can adjust your working? One of issues with a multi-purpose, close-work bench is being able to sit at optimal height for the task at hand.

The frame kit is adjustable in height between 26”- 51.6” + the thickness of the table top.

I like to stand over small work with my arms on supports, so my neck and shoulders are not hunched over excessively since I have arthritis and spinal stenosis in my neck. One of the reasons I thought to make the add-on module was to be able to work standing up with the work right in front of my face.. but with a 1.5" thick top I can almost accommodate that. So we're good for a variety of options if I have an architects height adjustable chair and foot rest.
 
I guess I'll have to do a mock up desktop to see how deep below the work surface I can get the well without banging my knees because the vise is over 6" in height, which protrudes above the main surface more than I'd like.


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I'd have to have a completely different style vise to get a lower height... and they're too expensive.
 

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You mean this, plus the necessary engraving accessories?

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That is one manufacturer... the plate is to hang a bracket to mount a vise in front of a bench. I hate that style, especially for a heavy vise. But yes there are so many accessories for engraving but also for benches...

microscope mounts, monitor mounts, dual nozzle fluid heads, it is a long list.

but that said, my main vise shown above sits in a leather ring to be able to tilt easily and sits over 6" tall so even a front bracket would be an issue
 
I have a BenchMate with a small (not engraving) vise for its positioning capabilities; didn’t pay anywhere near the current price. Also use plates and knuckles to customize mountings for other tooling. My friend (maybe, sometimes I think he gets a finder’s fee) Brian Meeks at Knew Concepts introduced me to them 6 years ago.
 
Is that 80/20-like aluminum extrusion to the rear of the bench? Will it integrate a panel board or something? One day want to play with that stuff. The number of fasteners & accessories is sensory overload though. Where do you buy it?

my eye says the front strip should carry over the side rail vs the exposed end grain, but that's just me
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will you cut this curve from solid or are you into vacuum bagging (strips)
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Is that 80/20-like aluminum extrusion to the rear of the bench? Will it integrate a panel board or something? One day want to play with that stuff. The number of fasteners & accessories is sensory overload though. Where do you buy it?

my eye says the front strip should carry over the side rail vs the exposed end grain, but that's just me
View attachment 50504

will you cut this curve from solid or are you into vacuum bagging (strips)
View attachment 50505

I keep vacillating between full width front strip and the side panels that run front to back. It is a work bench and will likely be in the basement so not overly critical to optimize the aesthetics. Now that you've mentioned it I'll have to change it.

I haven't decided on laminated strip or cut from solid 6" width. I have access to a lot of kiln dried 8/4 maple and walnut so for a one off top it wont matter the method, but if I was manufacturing for sale I'd definitely go laminated.

I guess it will depend on whether I have the oval cut out and inserts cut for me on a cnc router. I've done inserts to match cut outs, and while straight sided are easy to match curved ones are such a pain I'd happily pay for CNC router services.

Others make similar 15 series extrusions but yeah I tend to buy 80/20 extrusions. I buy through Grainger since I can pick up locally. I'm debating if I want to attach directly to the top or make a stanchion plate.

The availability and flexibility of accessories is why I've gone the extrusion route. But it is very expensive stuff. I can use solid maple beam 7" deep that I've installed rows of threaded inserts into for far less.
 
One accessory I've always wanted is an excellent quality leather stitching pony. Now I can make one that coordinates with the wood and metal of my work station. Basically I'm going to make a replica of the best one on the market that sells for about $375 bucks on aliexpress. Mine will be better quality wood and wider though

The first thing I plan to stitch with it is a lined leather belt I've needed for years since my old one finally had to be retired.

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The first thing I plan to stitch with it is a lined leather belt I've needed for years since my old one finally had to be retired.

Retired because it wore out or because it shrunk?

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FWIW, I've taken a liking to carhart belts. They seem to last longer than others, look good, don't curl and don't come apart. You can mail order them with confidence because they are pretty true to size.
 
Retired because it wore out or because it shrunk?

View attachment 50571

FWIW, I've taken a liking to carhart belts. They seem to last longer than others, look good, don't curl and don't come apart. You can mail order them with confidence because they are pretty true to size.
Haha, it didn't shrink. It stretched and the two plies separated. It was not an expensive belt but not cheap either. I loved it because it was the perfect width which is harder to find.

I also want to make a engraved silver belt buckle to go with it...
 
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