MT3-ER32-M12 Collet Chuck

[darrin1200]

Can I interest anyone in an MT3-ER32-M12 collet chuck.
I accidentally bought the wrong one (I need and MT2) from AliExpress and the return shipping to china is more than the chuck.
I‘d just like to get what i put in. $25 pick up/near by delivery (I‘m near Brockville, ON)
Shipping is not a problem at cost. Its about $16 in Ontario, I‘d have to check the rest of Canada.

 

[Susquatch]

What is the M12 part? The drawbar thread?

If so, I'm interested. I'd add a tang instead and use it in my lathe tailstock.

But I'll definitely stand aside if anyone else needs it for their MT3 spindle mill where it will be much more valuable.

 

[DavidR8]

What is the M12 part? The drawbar thread?

If so, I'm interested. I'd add a tang instead and use it in my lathe tailstock.

But I'll definitely stand aside if anyone else needs it for their MT3 spindle mill where it will be much more valuable.

Yes the drawbar thread would be M12.

 

[DPittman]

If so, I'm interested. I'd add a tang instead and use it in my lathe tailstock.

I'm curious what you would use an er holder in your tailstock that a regular drill chuck would suffice?

 

[YYCHM]

I'm curious what you would use an er holder in your tailstock that a regular drill chuck would suffice?

I have a MT2/ER20 chuck for my tailstock. I find it works way better than a drill chuck apart from the time it takes to change drill bits.. Less tailstock stick out, more rigid. For quick and dirty I use the drill chuck, for more precise I use the ER20. That and stubby drill bits make a real difference. You have to try it to see the difference.

 

[darrin1200]

What is the M12 part? The drawbar thread?

If so, I'm interested. I'd add a tang instead and use it in my lathe tailstock.

But I'll definitely stand aside if anyone else needs it for their MT3 spindle mill where it will be much more valuable.

Yeah it’s m12. Shoot me a DM if you want.

 

[Chipper5783]

What is the M12 part? The drawbar thread?

If so, I'm interested. I'd add a tang instead and use it in my lathe tailstock.

But I'll definitely stand aside if anyone else needs it for their MT3 spindle mill where it will be much more valuable.

For a Morse taper, one does not need a tang. You can just thread in a pin (still need something to provide the knock out). I like having the tang, gives one a feel good that it will drive - however it is not required. I have three lathes - the larger one (15") does not have the tang driving slot - just a smooth tapered/round bore all the way out the back. The knock out is simply the tailstock lead screw. My biggest drill is 1-1/32 and it works fine in the tailstock (I am very fussy about ensuring it is kept clean). A few years ago I set up to drill from the tool post, and that is my preference for drills over about 3/4" - but the first 35 years of owning the lathe I drilled from the tailstock.

Now after that bit of beaking, as a complete hypocrit. I added a tang to a ER32/MT3 collet chuck - there is a socket head cap screw up from the inside that just concealed by the tang. My intent was mainly to use it in the radial arm drill with S&D/Prentice drills, to keep the set up short. Of course it would work fine in the lathe TS. It was a fun little project on the roundtuit list (completed a couple years ago). I have used it exactly zero times, but that has never held me back (if I need it, I've got it).

 

[Susquatch]

It was a fun little project on the roundtuit list (completed a couple years ago). I have used it exactly zero times, but that has never held me back (if I need it, I've got it).

Nobody else has expressed any interest in it so Darrin and I have agreed that it will move to my farm.

I had not imagined anything as elaborate as you did on yours. I was just going to add a thread to a tang and screw it on. As you say, it's mostly to facilitate removal, but it will also prevent clockwise rotation if I accidentally loosen it by bumping it with my tailstock lead screw. It's just free insurance.

 

[darrin1200]

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