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MT2 tailstock 3/4" weldon shank?

slow-poke

Ultra Member
I have a set of annular cutters with 3/4" weldon shank and it would be nice to use them in my lathe. Tail stock is MT2, my largest chuck for the lathe is 1/2".

I suppose I could get a 3/4" chuck. Other options?
 
I suppose I could get a 3/4" chuck. Other options?

This is what I would do with zero hesitation. You might be able to find cheaper ones, but this one has the tang, both screws, and will be concentric enough to work perfectly.

Accusize Industrial Tools Mt2 to 3/4 inch Weldon Shank Annular Cutter Arbor Mc00-0002 https://a.co/d/h4sEJfg
 
Its better to use the gripping power & alignment of the MT annular cutter arbor as @Susquatch suggests vs your TS chuck jaws. The adapter has the proper Weldon set screw retention and also has integrated relief hole for annular cutter axial spring pin if you need to use it. I like annular cutters, they get rid of a big diameter of material with less power & drama then big drills although both have their pros & cons depending on the job. This is also a good time to spot check your tailstock alignment. Some people curse AC's only to find their TS is out 10 thou & they have been 'bending' drills all this time.
 
This is what I would do with zero hesitation. You might be able to find cheaper ones, but this one has the tang, both screws, and will be concentric enough to work perfectly.

Accusize Industrial Tools Mt2 to 3/4 inch Weldon Shank Annular Cutter Arbor Mc00-0002 https://a.co/d/h4sEJfg
Ordered, should be here Tuesday. Thanks.


Thanks, now to check alignment
Its better to use the gripping power & alignment of the MT annular cutter arbor as @Susquatch suggests vs your TS chuck jaws. The adapter has the proper Weldon set screw retention and also has integrated relief hole for annular cutter axial spring pin if you need to use it. I like annular cutters, they get rid of a big diameter of material with less power & drama then big drills although both have their pros & cons depending on the job. This is also a good time to spot check your tailstock alignment. Some people curse AC's only to find their TS is out 10 thou & they have been 'bending' drills all this time.
Peter,
Thanks for the warning, need to find a good procedure for checking alignment. I suppose I could simply extend the tailstock quill and run a dial indicator along the side?
 
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Thanks for the warning, need to find a good procedure for checking alignment. I suppose I could simply extend the tailstock quill and run a dial indicator along the side?

There are two kinds of alignment - axial concentricity & offset concentricity. Axial is when the center of the tailstock relative to the axis of the spindle changes as the quill extends in and out. It is not common - good thing cuz it's a bitch to fix.

Offset Concentricity is when the center of the tailstock is offset relative to the center of the spindle. @140mower 's method is the most commonly used to find and fix this. It's the time tested standard method. Basically you are checking to see if the tailstock offset causes the lathe to cut a taper.

My favorite method is to use buttons cuz it's fast and precise. Centers are mounted in the spindle and tailstock, and then the two buttons are pinched between the centers. Any misalignment will show up measuring across the button joint with a micrometer or caliper. You can make your own or buy them.


What makes the buttons particularly nice is that you can adjust the tailstock while measuring the buttons for a very fast result. It takes time and trial and error to use the taper method.
 
There are two kinds of alignment - axial concentricity & offset concentricity. Axial is when the center of the tailstock relative to the axis of the spindle changes as the quill extends in and out. It is not common - good thing cuz it's a bitch to fix.

Offset Concentricity is when the center of the tailstock is offset relative to the center of the spindle. @140mower 's method is the most commonly used to find and fix this. Basically you are checking to see if the tailstock offset causes the lathe to cut a taper.

My favorite method is to use buttons cuz it's fast and precise. Centers are mounted in the spindle and tailstock, and then the two buttons are pinched between the centers. Any misalignment will show up measuring across the button joint with a micrometer or caliper. You can make your own or buy them.

Cool, learn something new every day.
 
Best way I know to check alignment, is to turn between centers and measure diameters at the ends.
That's true, but then what. If TS diameter is 0.005" smaller than HS diameter, you need to displace your TS inward 0.0025". How do you do that. You can loosen the set screws, bump it, ideally with a gage on it to see how much, hope & repeat. Or you can skip the turning op & just set a DTI/arm in the chuck & rotate it either side of nice shiny TS arbor & measure it directly. What I like about direct measurement is typically TS has 2 opposing set screws. So its kind of like tightening stock in opposing jaws of 4J chuck. It can be tightened true, but unequally loaded screws, which means it probably will drift over time. I like to have a wrench on both set screws at the same time then adjust them simultaneously just watching the dial to hit the target number AND the same torque. Takes longer to describe than actually do. Now different lathes may adjust different but this seems common on most of the Asian models or the domestic models they copy.

Comparing diameters can also lie if TS is higher/lower but perfectly axial in the vertical plane. Not as much though & not a lot we can do about it unless we scrape the TS base in. Not relevant to this discussion but just mentioning another potential variable.
 
That's true, but then what. If TS diameter is 0.005" smaller than HS diameter, you need to displace your TS inward 0.0025". How do you do that. You can loosen the set screws, bump it, ideally with a gage on it to see how much, hope & repeat. Or you can skip the turning op & just set a DTI/arm in the chuck & rotate it either side of nice shiny TS arbor & measure it directly. What I like about direct measurement is typically TS has 2 opposing set screws. So its kind of like tightening stock in opposing jaws of 4J chuck. It can be tightened true, but unequally loaded screws, which means it probably will drift over time. I like to have a wrench on both set screws at the same time then adjust them simultaneously just watching the dial to hit the target number AND the same torque. Takes longer to describe than actually do. Now different lathes may adjust different but this seems common on most of the Asian models or the domestic models they copy.

Comparing diameters can also lie if TS is higher/lower but perfectly axial in the vertical plane. Not as much though & not a lot we can do about it unless we scrape the TS base in. Not relevant to this discussion but just mentioning another potential variable.
This is what I would suggest too. Chuck the strait end in the head stock and use a dial to make sure it is good. Then loosen all of the screws in the tail stock and mate the taper with light pressure. rotate and re-check with the dial and then fully mate. Then tighten the screws in the tail stock.
 
This is what I would do with zero hesitation. You might be able to find cheaper ones, but this one has the tang, both screws, and will be concentric enough to work perfectly.

Accusize Industrial Tools Mt2 to 3/4 inch Weldon Shank Annular Cutter Arbor Mc00-0002 https://a.co/d/h4sEJfg

Susquatch,
Thanks for the link, even better was that a pop-up for a warehouse special for $11 before tax was available, sometimes it's better to be lucky than smart;-)

Arrived today, in all original packaging and sealed bag.
_Lucky.webp
 
Awesome! Did you try it out on anything substantial yet?

And what's all that Yuk-a-muk-a-hya on your tailstock? A caliper based quill DRO?
No, but I will soon.

The Yuk-a-muk-a-hya is exactly that, a caliper based quill DRO, and it's really handy (if crude). The caliper body attaches to the tailstock with rare earth magnets so no tailstocks where injured during the installation process.
 
The Yuk-a-muk-a-hya is exactly that, a caliper based quill DRO, and it's really handy (if crude). The caliper body attaches to the tailstock with rare earth magnets so no tailstocks where injured during the installation process.

How does that arrangement handle the small amount of quill rotation that is inevitable? Doesn't it stress the caliper parts?
 
Surviving so far (about two years). It was a not so great (needs new batteries every 4-5 months) crappy-tire caliper that the thumb-wheel mount broke, so better here than in the bin.
I have proper scales laying around for it, however they have not made it to the top of the to-do list.
 
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