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Tips/Techniques MT to R8 adapter?
- Thread starter Tomc938
- Start date
Tips/Techniques
When I had my MT3 equipped mill I looked for the same thing.
I never found one and I think it's because the diameters don't work together.
Large end of an MT3 taper is 23.825mm whereas the shank of an R8 is 24.105mm so basically an R8 collet is physically larger than an MT3 taper.
But if you're looking to get rid of a set of R8 collets you can put them beside my calipers
I never found one and I think it's because the diameters don't work together.
Large end of an MT3 taper is 23.825mm whereas the shank of an R8 is 24.105mm so basically an R8 collet is physically larger than an MT3 taper.
But if you're looking to get rid of a set of R8 collets you can put them beside my calipers
Tomc938
Ultra Member
When I had my MT3 equipped mill I looked for the same thing.
My new lathe has a MT5. I n the spindle, so there would be room.
I also have a MT5 to MT4 adapter. I have a MT4 ER40 adapter, and I realized the size I really need is 1" so I can turn parts, like the cylinder heads for the steam engines I'm working on. Nice to Crazy Glue parts and be able to take them in and out of the lathe and get them back in with a fair degree of accuracy.
Might have to look for a chunk of 2" stock. and see what I can come up with.
Nice try.I never found one and I think it's because the diameters don't work together.
Large end of an MT3 taper is 23.825mm whereas the shank of an R8 is 24.105mm so basically an R8 collet is physically larger than an MT3 taper.
But if you're looking to get rid of a set of R8 collets you can put them beside my calipers
My new lathe has a MT5. I n the spindle, so there would be room.
I also have a MT5 to MT4 adapter. I have a MT4 ER40 adapter, and I realized the size I really need is 1" so I can turn parts, like the cylinder heads for the steam engines I'm working on. Nice to Crazy Glue parts and be able to take them in and out of the lathe and get them back in with a fair degree of accuracy.
Might have to look for a chunk of 2" stock. and see what I can come up with.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
I never seen an MT taking in R8 collet. Remember that R8 needs a draw bar. Also I think without stick out you would need MT4 or bigger.
R8 are long collets, for tool holding - why don't you get simply MT to ER32 or MT to ER40 + collet set?
Or 5C collets + a collet chuck.
Tomc938
Ultra Member
I j just have a nice selection of R8 collets I would like to use. I have the ER40 holder (MT4). and I'm planning to add collets for it as needed.
Just would have been nice to not have to buy ER40 in the R8 sizes that I already have.
And @David_R8: It would be in the list at about #127. But would be a fun challenge!
Now back to wiring the shop for the new toys.
Just would have been nice to not have to buy ER40 in the R8 sizes that I already have.
And @David_R8: It would be in the list at about #127. But would be a fun challenge!
Now back to wiring the shop for the new toys.
terry_g
Ultra Member
Tom would something like this work?
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
After I ground the jaws in my 3 jaw chuck I can remove and replace the collet holder and be within .001"
R8 Collet Block
I make a lot of small parts and do a lot of turning very close to the chuck. I know I should just buy a collet chuck or a collet block and some collets. I had a length of 1 3/4" rod from a hydraulic ram in my metal pile. A couple hours later I had this:
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
After I ground the jaws in my 3 jaw chuck I can remove and replace the collet holder and be within .001"
Former Member
Guest
Because you have such a large size (MT5) you can probably make something that works on your exact machine, but MT to R8 generally doesn't work. MT have long shallow tapers that may or may not have draw bars. R8 has a short and steep taper and must use a draw bar.
When R8 is on the outside, it just uses a normal draw bar and the MT friction fits inside.
If MT is on the outside, there is no way to get a draw bar into the R8. If the MT has its own draw bar, there is no space. And if the MT is friction only, then the 'stub' where the wedge hits it is in the way.
You can probably make a custom part, but I doubt you will find anything off the shelf.
When R8 is on the outside, it just uses a normal draw bar and the MT friction fits inside.
If MT is on the outside, there is no way to get a draw bar into the R8. If the MT has its own draw bar, there is no space. And if the MT is friction only, then the 'stub' where the wedge hits it is in the way.
You can probably make a custom part, but I doubt you will find anything off the shelf.
I think that's doable. Just prolly not available. And also prolly not the best way to go.
Oh I know... just spitballing... R8 collets are for tool holding not workholding.
Tomc938
Ultra Member
Yeah, I'm. thinking there's northing like I am looking for. Thankfully, since the spindle is MT5, and there is room clear though to the back, when I get a chance I'll see that I can come up with. When I work with smaller stuff, it generally isn't that long. (I'll let. you know how it works in. a couple of years)
If I work with really small stuff, I could chuck this in the ER40 collet, or an R8 if I made the adapter:
One of the many goodies that came with the lathe and milling machine. (I printed the plastic box. Better than the bag they were in when I got them) Outer barrel is 0.750" and the collet faces are 0.50". 1.156" long.
Anyone know what they are called? The gentleman thought he made them. How could you not know?? Mind you, sounds like he did LOTS of cool things over his lifetime.