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MOGLICE : Anyone ever hear of this stuff or use it?

Never used it myself but seen it in action on Renzetti, Gotteswinter & another channel. I'm familiar with epoxy's but this is special stuff. I get the impression its more for broader machine surfaces, either micro filling or semi-permanent sliding bearing surfaces, but where load is evenly distributed. Problem I see with a screw/nut is higher localized stress because its a small contact area so the glue both sees compression & shear. Also your nut probably has backlash adjustment so as you tweak it the glue will see bit different load angle. The stuff is expensive, they recommend careful surface prep like blasting for proper adhesion, special releasing agent... I bet you'd be into it for more than the price of a special tap. If your leadscrew happens to be worn in a localized area, that's an additional complication because the annular gap of a moglice surface will be the thickness of release agent & now that will it different depending on position. There is contact number on that website, they would be the best resource. let us know what they say..
 
Yes, I have heard of Moglice.

I think Stefan Gotteswinter has a video on his channel.

He used an epoxy by Diamant to improve the alignment of his mill.


Others may have used the stuff and posted videos as well. I think it originated in Europe. Keith Rucker used Turcite on his Monarch lathe rebuild.
 
Here is Rob's relatively low load sliding/alignment application. Notice the mirror finish of his slider bar before epoxy application. At ~25:28 he demonstrates the knuckle bite stage cracking the bar loose from moglice that didn't want to let go. Neither your worn leadscrew or nut will have anything close to this mirror finish or dimensional consistency. Worded another way, a million and one micro hills & valleys & burrs & crags to help the glue remain permanently stuck despite having a coating of release agent. If you break free with gronk force my guess is the moglice will chip away.

 
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Why don't you just get new lead screw nuts?

Depending on what it is try aliexpress - or even try to get Chinese to custom make you one.

Or replace whole lead screw with a ball screw.

You can also just get a chunk of bronze and make your own... Or for cheaper, make it out of cast iron.

How is the lead screw? Is it worn as well?

You could also try to make a backlash free nut out of your current nut.

Or just live with a lot of backlash, with a DRO on a mill I do not see it as an issue. Unless your nut is like not holding at all and more or less "gone".
 
Tom Kitta said:
Why don't you just get new lead screw nuts?

Depending on what it is try aliexpress - or even try to get Chinese to custom make you one.

Or replace whole lead screw with a ball screw.

You can also just get a chunk of bronze and make your own... Or for cheaper, make it out of cast iron.

How is the lead screw? Is it worn as well?

You could also try to make a backlash free nut out of your current nut.

Or just live with a lot of backlash, with a DRO on a mill I do not see it as an issue. Unless your nut is like not holding at all and more or less "gone".
Click to expand...

I don't need to fix or replace anything, I just stubbled upon the statement while searching for something else and got curious. I think I spotted it on the Home Machinists forum.
 
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YYCHM said:
It was suggested as a quick fix for worn lead screw nuts?

https://www.moglice.com/index.html
Click to expand...
If the nut is worn then likely the screw is worn as well, especially in the working section. IIRC you can do the moglice nut repair but it had to be mated to the unworn portion of the screw. Otherwise it will lock in place. It will be an improvement but will still be a bit loose on the worn section of the screw.
 
I think one would also have a real tough time injecting the epoxy with the lead screw & nut insitu. The nut is not exactly an a convenient spot to reach & you'd have to dam it up & somehow prevent ooze into antibacklash area unless you don't care about that anymore. If you did it outside the machine you would have to rig up some kind of centering alignment otherwise the screw will rest & contact on bottom side of threads. Trying to be open minded about this but it sounds like one of those 'it SHOULD work' kind of ideas. If you want to have some fun, just put a light wax coating on a bolt, JB Weld epoxy the joint. Let it cure, crack it open & let us know how it goes. I've done potted bolts screws with no nut in comparable light loads & the epoxy threads break off just looking at it wrong. It might be a way to jerry rig an oil leak if stranded on an island but sounds iffy as a mechanical fix to me.
 
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