• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Milling machine working height?

W

WilliamR

Active Member
Is there a rule of thumb or something for best working height ergonomics while standing at mill? For example, sitting at desk forearms 90 degrees at desk height?

The model is Zay 7045FG.

Current stand/cupboard much to low as is and calling it 16 gauge would be generous. If I build something what height should I be shooting for?

Searched and found lots on tool height, not what I was after.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
What mill do you have?

Being able to reach the draw bar without resorting to a step is a consideration.
 
when i built the stand for mine a lot of googling came up with your arm bent at 90 deg when it was on the vise handle, which is about where mine ended up when all the dust settled, seems like a comfortable height, no regrets
 
YYCHM said:
What mill do you have?

Being able to reach the draw bar without resorting to a step is a consideration.
Click to expand...
Good point. It would definitely have been a stretch from height I was thinking of. It is Zay 7045 FG. Think I will add that to original post. Thanks.
 
phaxtris said:
when i built the stand for mine a lot of googling came up with your arm bent at 90 deg when it was on the vise handle, which is about where mine ended up when all the dust settled, seems like a comfortable height, no regrets
Click to expand...
@phaxtris Thanks, was thinking along those lines until draw bar height mentioned. Good to hear you are happy with that. Hoping to avoid hacking apart finished product due to not fitting me.
 
YYCHM said:
Zay 7045 FG? Need a picture please.
Click to expand...
293588488_5971894216158761_4977193274622729178_n.jpg
 
I think craigs point about the draw bar is valid, but i also think you spend a lot more time staring at the vise/table than you do changing tools. Personally i would put comfort for the table height above tippy toeing/stool for the draw bar any day

those are my thoughts on that anyways

nice machine BTW
 
phaxtris said:
I think craigs point about the draw bar is valid, but i also think you spend a lot more time staring at the vise/table than you do changing tools. Personally i would put comfort for the table height above tippy toeing/stool for the draw bar any day

those are my thoughts on that anyways

nice machine BTW
Click to expand...
I second that... I'd rather pull out a stool occasionally for the drawbar then stooping all the time to see and work.
 
I need to set my mill 12" below slab level. I can *just* reach my drawbar. I certainly can't *see* it.
 
If you go into different machine shops you will see various forms of steps or platforms around mills to make it comfortable for a majority of the work done. In some instances though it fall under suck it up and live with it as it us a one time (or rarely) performed job.
 
Degen said:
If you go into different machine shops you will see various forms of steps or platforms around mills to make it comfortable for a majority of the work done. In some instances though it fall under suck it up and live with it as it us a one time (or rarely) performed job.
Click to expand...
I've certainly gotten used to flicking the lever on my socket every time it goes up there. 100% of the time I want the opposite of how I left it.
 
Degen said:
If you go into different machine shops you will see various forms of steps or platforms around mills to make it comfortable for a majority of the work done. In some instances though it fall under suck it up and live with it as it us a one time (or rarely) performed job.
Click to expand...
What you could do is fabricate a flip down step. When up it's angled just enough to direct chips down to the catchment area. When flipped down you can step on it to reach the draw bar easily.
 
For the most part I hate my size. I get quite tired of being asked to change the light bulbs all the time, finding clothes that fit, and trying to tie my shoes. Then I read about you guys needing a stool to reach the draw bar. The grass is always greener.
 
Susquatch said:
For the most part I hate my size. I get quite tired of being asked to change the light bulbs all the time, finding clothes that fit, and trying to tie my shoes. Then I read about you guys needing a stool to reach the draw bar. The grass is always greener.
Click to expand...
Lol...... I've never understood this step stool thing either. I can change a light bulb on an eight foot ceiling, flat footed...... Only time I consider using a stool is if I need to do up my top shirt button, but since both daughters are now married, I reckon that will be the undertakers problem next time.....;)
 
Those are actually forgiving machines from that standpoint compared to Bridgeport style. I used to have an RF-45. I'm 5-10 & drawbar was pretty easy reach. If not you can crank the head down the dovetail a bit. BP's are typically taller for amazingly about the same net (table to spindle) working height as RF-45 style. I can just reach my BP clone with wrench on tippy toes. Thankfully no step stool but I know of people that have to have it close by, unless you have a release system. And the BP table goes up/down so the work moves away. It took me some getting used to.

So, depending on your height, just try different height orientations & see what's comfortable. You could build in a bit of contingency with adjustable feet which are a good idea regardless for leveling & vibration dampening IMO. I had the stock sheet metal stand & I didn't really care for it. I'd consider a welded frame from say 2x2 tubing. More rigidity, better moving options, better storage utility. There's lots of pics & ideas on the internet, worth absorbing.
 
Last edited:
PeterT said:
I had the stock sheet metal stand & I didn't really care for it. I'd consider a welded frame from say 2x2 tubing. More rigidity, better moving options, better storage utility. There's lots of pics & ideas on the internet, worth absorbing.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have some thin wall 1.5" and 2" I was going to use. Man steel is getting expensive. Thought about wheels, but pallet jack works well for moving it around. Saw a few things on net regarding anti vibration pads and adjustable legs I was considering.

Wouldn't mind seeing member pics of stands and chip tray designs they are happy with. Looking to make coolant optional as well.
 
Here is the one I built from my "your active projects" thread, I can take another when I get off work if you like

No chip tray, I have a shop vac beside the mill/lathe for cleanup

The legs are 1.5x.100 wall tube, I pounded in 3/4 structural nuts into the bottoms of the tube and use 3/4 structural bolts as levellers

The drawer has all the stuff I use the most, er collets, end mills, 123 blocks, etc

Where that blue tote is I have a piece of plywood now with heavy mill/lathe bits, extra chuck, indexing head....parts for a coolant system I have yet to build, etc

IMG_20210503_170710832.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top