BaitMaster
Ultra Member
It’s not working right, but I’m pretty handy with electronics…..
And for 250$…. Sheesh.
I couldn’t resist.
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Miller 211 welder
- Thread starter BaitMaster
- Start date
It’s not working right, but I’m pretty handy with electronics…..
And for 250$…. Sheesh.
I couldn’t resist.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Dude. I know. Worst case scenario if I can’t fix anything and it’s the main board gone bad, 600$.
Couldn’t buy one of these for 850$ either.
I ended up with my Syncrowave 250DX for $1000 because the seller couldn't get it to run, and didn't have the time to figure it out.
Turns out if you set the jumpers in the back to the right input voltage, it works just fine.
(I know $1000 might sound like a lot for a machine that doesn't work, to some folks anyway, but I figured I could make my money in parts if I had to, plus it came with a wireless foot pedal)
Turns out if you set the jumpers in the back to the right input voltage, it works just fine.
(I know $1000 might sound like a lot for a machine that doesn't work, to some folks anyway, but I figured I could make my money in parts if I had to, plus it came with a wireless foot pedal)
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Update on the welder for all those interested.
I got it home. The problem was that the wire feed speed would go way down once it welded for a bit. And big down kind of.
So, at the sellers house, we tried it quick. It was on auto set, and for 0.35” wire. The welder has 0.24” wire in it. And the knob doesn’t index well on the detents anymore, so I’ll have to fix that.
Second problem. The ground clamp is full of tractor grease. You heard me. It’s greasy. No visible copper on the clamp, and an extremely worn out spring.
So, I clamped it to a piece of angle, wire brushed and cleaned the clamp, and set auto set for the proper wire, and boom. The thing welds like an absolute HOT DARN.
I’m pretty sure I just got a 100% functional Miller Mig welder for 250$. I’ll buy a new clamp and a new dial pot for the front.
I might be into this thing for 350$ all said and done??
I’m buying a lottery ticket.
I got it home. The problem was that the wire feed speed would go way down once it welded for a bit. And big down kind of.
So, at the sellers house, we tried it quick. It was on auto set, and for 0.35” wire. The welder has 0.24” wire in it. And the knob doesn’t index well on the detents anymore, so I’ll have to fix that.
Second problem. The ground clamp is full of tractor grease. You heard me. It’s greasy. No visible copper on the clamp, and an extremely worn out spring.
So, I clamped it to a piece of angle, wire brushed and cleaned the clamp, and set auto set for the proper wire, and boom. The thing welds like an absolute HOT DARN.
I’m pretty sure I just got a 100% functional Miller Mig welder for 250$. I’ll buy a new clamp and a new dial pot for the front.
I might be into this thing for 350$ all said and done??
I’m buying a lottery ticket.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Update: There is indeed a problem with this welder.
It only takes effect at higher voltage settings, above 6.5.
The drive motor will slow down. Through research and conversations with Miller and our local welder service center, I've determined it is likely the output rectifier diodes/one diode. The diode is likely half cooked, can't maintain the necessary current, and the voltage sensing of the welder automatically slows down the wire feed.
I've priced out the whole output rectifier from miller at 200$ cad shipped to my door.
Before I pull the trigger on that, I'm disassembling the machine all the way and seeing if I can get a part number off of the diode's and order off of Digikey for likely 1/10th the cost of the miller parts.
I'll post when I get something figured out.
It only takes effect at higher voltage settings, above 6.5.
The drive motor will slow down. Through research and conversations with Miller and our local welder service center, I've determined it is likely the output rectifier diodes/one diode. The diode is likely half cooked, can't maintain the necessary current, and the voltage sensing of the welder automatically slows down the wire feed.
I've priced out the whole output rectifier from miller at 200$ cad shipped to my door.
Before I pull the trigger on that, I'm disassembling the machine all the way and seeing if I can get a part number off of the diode's and order off of Digikey for likely 1/10th the cost of the miller parts.
I'll post when I get something figured out.
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
@BaitMaster if you are in the Calgary area, Kristian Electric has spares of just about everything for most Miller welders (and a lot of other brands. You might save some folding cash if they have it.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
I called Kristian. They were the ones that gave me the 200$ ish shipped to me quote. I've fixed welders before and I've never seen a Miller Genuine Replacement Part (TM) be cheaper then an electronic component ordered from an electronics supplier. Usually Miller is charging 5-10x the cost you can buy on Digikey/Mouser etc.... IF they have the component and not a whole giant assembly.
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Dabbler
ersatz engineer
If you can get to the damaged component, and the diode looks heated, replace them all, of course. If one has partially failed, they were all stressed. It is a very cheap experiment, even if it points somewhere else ultimately.
I mentioned Kristian, because they are very skilled and helpful. I trust them, and that is not easily won from me.
I mentioned Kristian, because they are very skilled and helpful. I trust them, and that is not easily won from me.
If it is truly just a bridge rectifier it can be tested out off circuit might give you a better feeling about ordering a $200 part.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
@Dabbler They seem good to deal with. They also said that the likely culprit was the output rectifier. Both them and Miller Tech came to the same conclusion.
@combustable herbage It is not configured as a bridge rectifier. The "output rectifier" consists of three individual power diodes. Two diodes rectifying the inverter output, one as a freewheeling diode for the negative alternation. The problem is that the diode(s) are only half bad. AND they only have issues under heavy current/voltage. I would have to rig up one heck of a test rig to simulate those circumstances. It could be one of the two rectifier diodes increasing voltage drop under high current, or the freewheeling diode leaking back in reverse...... If they are inexpensive enough components, I will just replace them all. I don't have 100a DC testing capability.....
@combustable herbage It is not configured as a bridge rectifier. The "output rectifier" consists of three individual power diodes. Two diodes rectifying the inverter output, one as a freewheeling diode for the negative alternation. The problem is that the diode(s) are only half bad. AND they only have issues under heavy current/voltage. I would have to rig up one heck of a test rig to simulate those circumstances. It could be one of the two rectifier diodes increasing voltage drop under high current, or the freewheeling diode leaking back in reverse...... If they are inexpensive enough components, I will just replace them all. I don't have 100a DC testing capability.....
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Heres the substitute i found for the part #.....
Part number on the diode was 150EBU04... They are discontinued I guess, but this appears to be a workable proper substitute.
I get free shipping from digi through work, and all in all 6x new diodes (three for dropsies) are going to cost be about 50$.
So I quarter the price of ordering the assembly from Miller.
Part number on the diode was 150EBU04... They are discontinued I guess, but this appears to be a workable proper substitute.
I get free shipping from digi through work, and all in all 6x new diodes (three for dropsies) are going to cost be about 50$.
So I quarter the price of ordering the assembly from Miller.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
Update: the parts arrived last night. I also decided to order some conductive thermal paste, as the diodes were mounted on the heat sink, and the heat sink was also the positive bus. I only had non conductive handy, the only place I could find conductive paste was Amazon for 72$ for a tube! (Ouch)
But I thought whatever, I’ll be in this welder for about 390$ said and done, so I might as well do it right.
I got the welder reassembled with all new diodes, and it works like a charm.
I can go full WFS on higher volts, and the welds look fine.
This saga is complete.
But I thought whatever, I’ll be in this welder for about 390$ said and done, so I might as well do it right.
I got the welder reassembled with all new diodes, and it works like a charm.
I can go full WFS on higher volts, and the welds look fine.
This saga is complete.
I'm sooooo jealous! If only I could weld......
Too old, too blind, too shaky.
Too many new tricks needed and not enough time left to make it worth trying given other more important things I want to do instead.
BaitMaster
Ultra Member
John some weaknesses turn into strengths….. in welding, shakiness could be “walking the cup”, blind means you won’t get flashed if you forget the mask, and old, well…. You have the money to buy a welder.
A broken clock is dead on right twice a day!