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Mill wiring question

Grizzly Adams

Active Member
So, the mill I bought is a King model 31, which I also see described as a PDM 30. As it came, it's set up to run on 220 v, but the manual apparently allows for conversion to 110v and there are instructions in the motor junction box, which I have followed. It ain't working. Am I missing something ?
 
Here are some pic, I've changed the wiring to the 110 v configuration here, but I'm thinking there might be some component replacement involved, specifically the 220/24 v transformer. Thinking it might just be easier to run a 220 v line when it comes down to it. Of course the Chenglish instructions are beyond any hope.
 

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Here are some pic, I've changed the wiring to the 110 v configuration here, but I'm thinking there might be some component replacement involved, specifically the 220/24 v transformer. Thinking it might just be easier to run a 220 v line when it comes down to it. Of course the Changlish instructions are beyond any hope.
If the system is designed to run on 110 or 220 then likely the transformer has a dual winding to still create the 24V required for contactors/relays etc. If it doesn't then the motor may well be dual voltage but the system is 220VAC. If you don't want to rewire the rest then keep the motor at 110VAC and add an external step up isolation (or even just autotransformer) to create a lower current 220VAC supply for the rest of the mill.
 
Here are some pic, I've changed the wiring to the 110 v configuration here, but I'm thinking there might be some component replacement involved, specifically the 220/24 v transformer. Thinking it might just be easier to run a 220 v line when it comes down to it. Of course the Chenglish instructions are beyond any hope.

This is rather simple wiring. What your mill has for its motor is protection circuit that is made out of two components connected together - one is a magnet that runs on 24v (and will almost certainly not be strong enough on 12v) as well as safety that is set with a small dial - which probably is out of range for doubling of amps.

If your transformer cannot be set to 120v/24v you would need to get a new stuff from aliexpress for arund ... 20 - 30 CAD and replace the whole thing with new amp range and maybe magnet set to 120v so you can ditch the transformer.

The transformer may also run other things through - like LED to indicate mill is on or off.

Oh an its not working 99% sure b/c the 12v is not enough to trip the magnet - to test this do it manually - press the blue contactor with a screw driver while under power - should run just fine. Set the amp range to max.
 

Here - 110v option so no need for transformer - the original seems to "skip" the protection circuit as per images so I guess maybe they went cheap. Check what else the transformer is for - if nothing then ditch it and re-wire with this new component for a whopping 18 CAD with shipping.

25 amps max load - so check your mill motor is not more then that on 120v.
 
To my way of thinking I'd MUCH RATHER run the lathe on 220 and run a 220 V feed wire instead. The motor will be happier on 220 and adding a 220v house wiring circuit is a piece of cake compared to rewiring a machine.
 
To my way of thinking I'd MUCH RATHER run the lathe on 220 and run a 220 V feed wire instead. The motor will be happier on 220 and adding a 220v house wiring circuit is a piece of cake compared to rewiring a machine.

Yeah I would run it on 240v as well - I think it has like 2hp motor and on 120v it would need at least 20amps for full power or even for starting it up.
 
Yeah I would run it on 240v as well - I think it has like 2hp motor and on 120v it would need at least 20amps for full power or even for starting it up.
I'm tending to agree, I originally ran a 220 volt line for my lathe, but ended up running it on 110, so the line in place, just some rewiring there. I've changed 220 motors to 110 before and thought it would just be another simple change of a couple of wires. Thanks for your help
 
Unfortunately these pictures don't mean much to me, but I agree that if you have 220V available, that is certainly a better option.
 
Unfortunately these pictures don't mean much to me, but I agree that if you have 220V available, that is certainly a better option.
The final solution, really not very complicated, not sure if it meets code though. LOL I re connected the original 220 v intended for my lathe and then ran a 110 outlet to feed the lathe from one phase. The circuit is connected to a double pole 20 amp breaker, so both outlets should be protected. I actually learned a lot about my machine from this discussion, Thanks again.
 

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