Machinists precision level

[John Conroy]

I've been looking to buy a precision level for a few years now but keep gagging when I see the price of even Chinese ones. Today I bit the bullet when I found a great deal on a 12" Starrett on Kijiji. When I got it home I set it on my mill table. I thought it was perfectly level but now I see I need to do a little more work. I had been using an electronic level and it's pretty accurate but not to the standards of the Starrett.

 

[Dabbler]

I bought a cheap Chinese one, but it has been really difficult do calibrate!

 

[PeterT]

I bought a used Starrett in nice shape from a guy on Hobby Machinist forum for a fair price.

** Subsequently I found out they aren't stupidly expensive brand new, at least this particular model. They don't come in the nice classic wood box & I cant say if manufacturing is farmed out like some of their indicators & such (not that that's necessarily a bad thing). **

**edit, my bad, referenced the wrong length model**

I feel this model fits my needs, way more accurate than anything I have in the shop, but not crazy fussy to calibrate or read like the more accurate ones.

 

[John Conroy]

The one I bought sells for $375 at KBC with the box or about $300 without.

 

[PeterT]

Oops you are right, John. I got a 98-12 & they are substantially more. Now I feel even better about my deal
https://www.amazon.ca/Starrett-98-12-Precision-Machinists-Length/dp/B0002FUO8G

 

[John Conroy]

https://www.amazon.ca/Starrett-98Z-...id=1510506719&sr=8-23&keywords=Starrett+level

The price on Amazon is even higher than at KBC.

I got this one for $160 and is is like new so I'm happy with that deal

 

[PeterT]

Thanks for correction. I went back & edited my post because I referenced the 6" vs. 12" which is cheaper for that reason. And yes Amazon is more $ than KBC in this case.
You did well on your purchase. Looks like I paid ~1/2 for mine too, so there are deals out there. Its a nice unit.

 

[John Conroy]

I spent some time getting the mill and lathe levelled today. The mill was very close but the lathe was way off. I have threaded adjusters on all 4 corners of both machines so it didn't take long to get them dialed in.







I checked the lathe bed in 3 locations to see if it is twisted but they all check the same.

 

[PeterT]

Exactly how I checked mine. So do you mean your lathe had no appreciable twist but bed is sitting at an angle in the long axis? That's the case of mine now because I have a healthy garage pad slope & at the min max of these particular screw adjuster pads. Headstock end is slightly lower than tailstock end. I was ready to rig up a way to jack up the headstock or make longer studs so also level in that orientation. A machinist friend said don't worry about that as much, it doesn't really harm anything; unnecessary rotational twist is the one that should be minimized. I guess I'd feel better if it was level all way round but correcting the feet is on the '101-ways to use a new welder' list

 

[John Conroy]

I checked it for twist before I adjusted anything and it seemed to be out of level the same amount along it's entire length. It was high at the front and at the headstock end. I have mine sitting on a welded steel frame. When I set it on there I shimmed the base so tops of the 2 cabinets were parallel with each other. I had borrowed a 72 inch straight edge from a friend for that. With the steel frame under it I don't think it will ever get twisted but I had never checked it before. There are only 4 leveling adjusters, one at each corner on the frame. The adjusters are made from 3/4" threaded rod. The reason they are so long it so that I can get my engine crane legs under the base. There are casters attached to the frame in the picture but I cut those off before I put the lathe in it's final resting spot. The casters were not up to handling the weight of the machine. The frame is made from 2" X 2" .250" wall square tubing and it very stiff.

 

[PeterT]

That's more thoughtful engineering than my setup. I have similar frame (no cabinets) & bought these commercial screw jack feet. This shows tailstock end down as low as it can go. The headstock side is as high as they can go with top nut barely engaged. If the threaded posts were longer or my 'car washer' garage pad didn't have so much slope it would have worked out. I'll figure something out eventually. First things first... 're-assembly'

 

[PeterT]

My manual says level in both orientations. That means your manual will say the same. My machinist buddy is FIRED!

 

[John Conroy]

I've heard other people say it doesn't have to be level. An example would be lathes used on ships. I think as long as the bed is not twisted you can still get good results.

 

[Dabbler]

It seems to be a 'what is important to you' story. The very best is level in all directions with (ideally) the same force on each foot. My old tool and die maker buddy says that you have to recheck every 6 months for about 2 years, and then you can say it's level. He did that for his LeBlonde and it is rock-solid, and level to .002 per foot in both directions.

Deals are out there. I just picked up a 12" Moore and Wright Engineers level for 150.00