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Looking for some brass chips(shavings) in the Calgary area.
- Thread starter Perry
- Start date
That looks like a Clickspring pic?
If you dont get a hit from the group (because I was always curious where consisten brass chips came from if not your own shop) I have seen it flogged on ebay. Not exactly cheap, but then neither is brass. I've also see 'additives' that the jewelry casting crown puts into resins like urethane. But I suspec that is ground powder & maybe not the chip size you are looking for? Anyways good luck
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-lb-One-P...272978?hash=item2899a2c452:g:XpAAAOSwQFBfJv~B
If you dont get a hit from the group (because I was always curious where consisten brass chips came from if not your own shop) I have seen it flogged on ebay. Not exactly cheap, but then neither is brass. I've also see 'additives' that the jewelry casting crown puts into resins like urethane. But I suspec that is ground powder & maybe not the chip size you are looking for? Anyways good luck
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-lb-One-P...272978?hash=item2899a2c452:g:XpAAAOSwQFBfJv~B
Yes I took a screen capture of the Clickspring video. A picture always makes a post a little more interesting.
I'm thinking the chip texture is the most desirable for the bluing process. The process involves oxidizing the surface and I believe it gives the surface more exposure to the O2.
One text I read suggested the use of powered marble. I did try this for a while and it did work. The issues with the powdered marble is the powder can pop when heating and small pieces end up on the surface and you can see small imperfections. I'm hoping to step up my game a little.
The amount of chips from my shop do not add up. lol. I'm chucking up a big 3/16" diameter rod this evening for a project.
Cheers,
I'm thinking the chip texture is the most desirable for the bluing process. The process involves oxidizing the surface and I believe it gives the surface more exposure to the O2.
One text I read suggested the use of powered marble. I did try this for a while and it did work. The issues with the powdered marble is the powder can pop when heating and small pieces end up on the surface and you can see small imperfections. I'm hoping to step up my game a little.
The amount of chips from my shop do not add up. lol. I'm chucking up a big 3/16" diameter rod this evening for a project.
Cheers,
francist
Super User
I just threw these into the scrap bin yesterday— maybe a bit stringy for your use but easy to come by with the shaper. I used to have a couple pound bag of saw cuttings from when I was cutting sign lettering but not sure I still have it. Not exactly in Calgary either, but I’ll still have a look for it.
-frank
-frank
Johnwa
Ultra Member
Would this work?
https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/sr459.htm
https://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/sr459.htm
Hi Frank,
I'm not sure if those would work. I'd be willing to give them a try if nothing else presents itself.
How thick are these shavings? 1/8" wide? 1/4" wide?
Perry
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John,
I've never seen this stuff but it also looks like a good option. I'm still going to hold off for a little and see if anything shows up.
Thankyou for the link.
Perry
Yes any kind of moisture content or remnant of cutting fluid would probably cause issues, so might be advisable to do a acetone bath and/or prior heat. Not that cutting fluids are generally used on brass but you never know what else was there when it was scooped. Clickspring sure does some neat work, the bluing is such a nice aesthetic detail. I know the pottery trade shops sell all kinds of highly refined sand, ranging in size coarseness & composition. Might be another option although there is probably a specific reason for brass.
francist
Super User
Thats ok. They’re 0.085” wide by 0.015” thick but I actually don’t have more than a half-cup or so right now anyways.
Found the other stuff though — 2-1/2 lbs of leaded brass saw cuttings off the vertical bandsaw. Couldn’t bear to throw it away so I’ve had it for 15 years probably.
Feel free to wait for something local to you to turn up, I’m on the coast so not that convenient for you.
-frank
Hi Frank,
I might have to take you up on these. Need to figure out how to get them to Calgary.
I have co-workers working in Vancouver. Four days in Vancouver, four days off back in Calgary. Just trying to figure out how to get them from Victoria to Vancouver (Richmond area). My co-workers are checking to see if anyone is traveling to Victoria.
I would be interested in trying the larger chips you have shown and approximately the same amount of the saw cuttings. What would you charge for these?
Perry
I might have to take you up on these. Need to figure out how to get them to Calgary.
I have co-workers working in Vancouver. Four days in Vancouver, four days off back in Calgary. Just trying to figure out how to get them from Victoria to Vancouver (Richmond area). My co-workers are checking to see if anyone is traveling to Victoria.
I would be interested in trying the larger chips you have shown and approximately the same amount of the saw cuttings. What would you charge for these?
Perry
francist
Super User
Oh no charge Perry, if you need them that’s fine. I’ll set some aside until we figure the transport. Maybe PM me for that when you have something in mind, I’m very close to downtown Victoria if that helps. Too bad, my sister was just over to the other side this morning.
-frank
-frank
A small follow up.
I really wish I could say I did these using the Clickspring method, but no. I put a really good effort into trying it the way Clickspring shows in his video and I'm starting to think there is more being done in that video then meets the eye. (Actually he has a couple videos regarding bluing and I see a few problems in all of them).
First off the torch appears to be too small to get the results he is showing. I stepped all the way up to a larger propane torch and I was getting results but not as I had hoped for.
The hands I completed above were heated on a 1/8" thick disc of bronze. The diameter of the disc was 1-1/4". I had to fall back to my old method. I spent far to long polishing and repolishing trying to get the Clickspring method down.
The larger chips Frank sent me are far too big for this work. I did try them, but the results were not good. They might be good to use on larger objects. The smaller chips were nice. I washed them in acetone. Dried them. The idea is to even out the heating and control the rate to obtain an even blue color across the whole hand. (Due to the different structure in the hand shape some areas heat faster then others and the blue ends up being a range of colors.)
Using a small torch gives the heat to a very localized area. Even with the chips it takes time to spread that heat evenly. A large torch works a little better but the rate is faster and it is easy to overshoot the color you want.
If I had to guess. Clickspring is using a digital controlled oven or heat source.
I would like to pass out a great big THANK YOU to Frank for supplying me with the chips to try this process out. When I get some more time I'm going to revisit this and try them again. I have a few ideas that might help me get to the Clickspring standard.
I really wish I could say I did these using the Clickspring method, but no. I put a really good effort into trying it the way Clickspring shows in his video and I'm starting to think there is more being done in that video then meets the eye. (Actually he has a couple videos regarding bluing and I see a few problems in all of them).
First off the torch appears to be too small to get the results he is showing. I stepped all the way up to a larger propane torch and I was getting results but not as I had hoped for.
The hands I completed above were heated on a 1/8" thick disc of bronze. The diameter of the disc was 1-1/4". I had to fall back to my old method. I spent far to long polishing and repolishing trying to get the Clickspring method down.
The larger chips Frank sent me are far too big for this work. I did try them, but the results were not good. They might be good to use on larger objects. The smaller chips were nice. I washed them in acetone. Dried them. The idea is to even out the heating and control the rate to obtain an even blue color across the whole hand. (Due to the different structure in the hand shape some areas heat faster then others and the blue ends up being a range of colors.)
Using a small torch gives the heat to a very localized area. Even with the chips it takes time to spread that heat evenly. A large torch works a little better but the rate is faster and it is easy to overshoot the color you want.
If I had to guess. Clickspring is using a digital controlled oven or heat source.
I would like to pass out a great big THANK YOU to Frank for supplying me with the chips to try this process out. When I get some more time I'm going to revisit this and try them again. I have a few ideas that might help me get to the Clickspring standard.
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Perry, I have also accumulated some over the holidays (milling/drilling/tapping shavings) that you can try out as well.
I am in the Calgary area. They are in a plastic drawer -- saved them after reading this thread last year and realizing that there is a need for them.