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Tips/Techniques Looking for easy removable thread locker

Tips/Techniques
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bigHUN

Member
My airgun projects often need disassembling, and especially one 1/2"x2" fully threaded SS tube that connects two - steel and aluminum pipe parts - on each end, makes me problems. Usually when I unscrew one side pipe (aluminum) that SS threaded tube ends inside the wrong part (inside aluminum instead of steel pipe).
Not really a high torque, more like fingertight + 1/4 turn is enough for my application, that would be about 3Nm or whatever within that range, but I want that same number to be repeatable.
I tried all possible medium strength blue from loctytes and permatex, and my problem is when I want to open for cleaning I need to heat up with a small torch to brake the threadlock bond loose... too much extra work in my garage using a vise and wrenches, and not really a fan of heating those parts.
Also tried to wrap the 12x1mm thread half length only with teflon plumbing tape just enough to create an added friction on one end (to stay in steel tube), again not a fast and clean and simple process. Also the torque value is not repeatable.
Looking for a simpler solution, something like the nylon patch applied fasteners, but these are usually pre-made process at fabrication level... a patch of nylon powder (different colors) heated/melted into the thread. Ideally this would be my cleanest and torque repeatable solution, but have not come up with powder/equipment prices yet to justify for home and hobby use.
What else may be out there?
 
Blue loctite doesn’t need heat to undo, at least the one I use for gib setscrews on our portable equipment. Will check which product code it is tonight.
 
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bigHUN said:
What else may be out there?
Click to expand...

What about no thread locker at all. Tighten to whatever spec and then install 2 opposite or 4 opposite set screws with a plastic or lead lug under them? Again to a torque for consistency.

Alternatively a thread faced lock plug under a set screw.

Alternatively a threaded lock ring (think savage barrel nut).

Alternatively an external locking ring with a circumferential draw screw.

Sometimes an antisieze makes a good thread locker at low torques.

Many different ways to skin a cat.
 
Greywynd said:
Blue loctite doesn’t need heat to undo, at least the one I use for gib setscrews on our portable equipment. Will check which product code it is tonight.
Click to expand...

At his low torque it does. It is a non heat thread locker at conventional torques but it's damn near an adhesive at low torques. I prefer not to use it at low torques.
 
Many good advise but not really for my parts.
Early in the morning I will visit one Bolts Store in next city 20 minutes away, if they have some smaller package samples of whatever can advise to try ...
 
Susquatch said:
At his low torque it does. It is a non heat thread locker at conventional torques but it's damn near an adhesive at low torques. I prefer not to use it at low torques.
Click to expand...
It’s 242 that I’m using, on 10-32 setscrews. They need adjusted sometimes, and the locktite gives enough drag to prevent them working loose. I can see in a real low torque application it may be too much.
 
I think with the dissimilar metals I would look at some anti seize instead.

Problem is you want it to end up still threaded into the steel portion, or unthreaded from both?
 
How about just clean threads? Don’t use any thread locker at all. It doesn’t sound like a high vibration application or a critical service. Threaded fasteners hold really well. A typical machine could have hundreds (even thousands) of bolted joint connections - good condition threads, properly tightened (which is much less then most people think/feel) don’t back off all the time.

For over 20 years, I worked in a large chemical plant that processes hazardous materials. They have many thousands of bolted joint connections (piping flanges, machine joints etc), there were some applications that we would use a thread locker, or various locking washers, or wire tying, but the majority were simply clean, with a thread lube (not just any thread lube, it was specified - usually a nickel compound, but depended on the application) and then torqued to a target bolt stress.

Have you found that the fasteners are always coming loose? Give it a try with out. Let us know how it works out.
 
Either orange plumbing Teflon tape or Wibra-Lock tapes....this all the friction I would need by finger ... not more than finger tight +1/4. But as much consistent as possible... so far I have not tried WL tapes.
 
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