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Machine Looking for a manual and or opinions
- Thread starter millwrightgoose
- Start date
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- Tags
- acra turn lathe lubrication
Machine
If your open for an opinion I’ll give mine. This is by no means scientific or gospel. I have a manual to an older Voeste lathe and it calls for hydraulic 32. One of my other lathes calls for something similar. I can’t imagine a home shop working a lathe of this size to its limits. Try 32 and watch thre colour. And congratulations on the new toy. I have a chin hung ( similar to this one) and absolutely love it. Don’t get caught up in the Taiwan off shore isn’t as good as .......... crap. This will serve you just fine.
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Former Member
Guest
Most of them are ISO.
It’s a bit pricey, but here is a link to a manual for your lathe.
IIRC, the oil in the carriage on your lathe feeds the way lubrication system. In that case, the oil should be a good quality way lubrication oil NOT gear oil. I use Shell Tonna 68 for both my lathes (a Colchester Master 2500 and a CMT Ursus 250) that have integrated carriage/way lube systems.
For the headstock, hydraulic oils work well. ISO 36 works well in mine (both have clutches).
IIRC, the oil in the carriage on your lathe feeds the way lubrication system. In that case, the oil should be a good quality way lubrication oil NOT gear oil. I use Shell Tonna 68 for both my lathes (a Colchester Master 2500 and a CMT Ursus 250) that have integrated carriage/way lube systems.
For the headstock, hydraulic oils work well. ISO 36 works well in mine (both have clutches).
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
Great looking lathe in nice condition! +1 to all of @RobinHood comments.
Also think of it this way: You will use way oil over time. For the headstock you need around 2 gallons anyway. Buy a 5 gallon bucket of Tonna 68 (I also use this, it is great), and be done. Then you have left over for the apron and lubing the ways on this lathe and your mill...
The dirty secret is that almost any lube will work, except the 220wt gear lube you suggested. It is far too thick to do splash lubrication, which is what all the old Mazak lathes used.
Gears need lubricity and film strength. Hydraulic oils and way oils have very strong film strength, and the way lube has the advantage of staying with the gears between uses. Lubricity of current oils is superior to any lube available in the 70s.
If you want to use a separate lube for the headstock (in the case where it isn't used for lubing the ways), use Hydraulic Oil 68, as available from Princess auto. Only use the 32 if you have a very cold shop in winter. The 32 is too thin and your gears will always start dry after even a short interval (a few days).
A caution here: stay far away from sulfated HP oils. They will eat your bronze and brass away in a short time. Your headstock has a bunch of bronze or brass in it. High pressure lubricants are not to be used in spur gear boxes in any event.
Also think of it this way: You will use way oil over time. For the headstock you need around 2 gallons anyway. Buy a 5 gallon bucket of Tonna 68 (I also use this, it is great), and be done. Then you have left over for the apron and lubing the ways on this lathe and your mill...
The dirty secret is that almost any lube will work, except the 220wt gear lube you suggested. It is far too thick to do splash lubrication, which is what all the old Mazak lathes used.
Gears need lubricity and film strength. Hydraulic oils and way oils have very strong film strength, and the way lube has the advantage of staying with the gears between uses. Lubricity of current oils is superior to any lube available in the 70s.
If you want to use a separate lube for the headstock (in the case where it isn't used for lubing the ways), use Hydraulic Oil 68, as available from Princess auto. Only use the 32 if you have a very cold shop in winter. The 32 is too thin and your gears will always start dry after even a short interval (a few days).
A caution here: stay far away from sulfated HP oils. They will eat your bronze and brass away in a short time. Your headstock has a bunch of bronze or brass in it. High pressure lubricants are not to be used in spur gear boxes in any event.
Proxule
Ultra Member
Legend reply!
OR - iso 46 ( middle ground ) if your work has some and is willing to sponsor your oil adventures
millwrightgoose
Active Member
Thanks everyone for the replies! This forum has a plethora of knowledge, boring old 68 hydraulic oil it is! Now to find a rotophase as I just cooked my vfd. @Dabbler appreciate the compliments! Took a few hours of degreasing to clean it up like that. Thankfully the ways seem to be excellent just a few small issues I would like to attend to.
If you do need to use EP oils in a gear box that has yellow metals, then find one whose ingredients use inactive sulphur instead of active sulphur and has an copper strip corrosion test (ASTM D130) no higher than 1A.
The Effects of EP Additives on Gearboxes
Oil additives offer a wide range of benefits, but in some circumstances they can actually be harmful to the machines in which they are added. For example, let’s look at worm gearboxes. These...
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