larger print example ER collet rack

[PeterT]

So I drew up an ER16 collet rack to fit a specific cardboard storage box size (after first printing a smaller 4-hole test block which I am happy with).

Its occupying some real estate on my A1 table. Total time ~7 hours. I'm sure the 'creature' printers are chuckling & calling me a WUS right now LOL

but this assumes default infill

Thus far I have found (PLA) prints around this thickness to be amazingly rigid for the purpose. What do you think, is this when people reduce infill to speed up time & reduce material? Or am I risking something else like potential lift or warp? Thus far my stuff has been smallish & actually impressed with what is coming off the printer.

 

[Doggggboy]

If the standard infill is 15% and working well for you I'd stick with it. Changing it 10% or so won't save much time or filament even on a 7 hour print.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

If the standard infill is 15% and working well for you I'd stick with it. Changing it 10% or so won't save much time or filament even on a 7 hour print.

+1

But you could consider alternate fill patterns for greater compression strength such as cubic. Times should not change but better protection for thin walled thin fill prints

 

[David]

My infill of choice is gyroid.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

My infill of choice is gyroid.

another good one

 

[gerritv]

If you look at the sliced details, the time is almost all in the top, bottom and perimeters. I would slice this 2 layers top and bottom and 2 perimeters max. There is no load in thin so no need to do more. And as stated, infill won't change print time much, but will provide support to the top and bottom layers.

 

[PeterT]

I realized I inadvertently made it 25mm thick but it only needs to be 20mm so that reduced print time to ~6.x hours with default settings. Fits one of my standardized storage boxes just fine. But now I'm kind of having a DUH moment, wondering why I even made 24 holes when I probably have the range pretty much covered. I probably could fit the collets in one half & tooling in the other. Anyway the relatively simple tapered depression shape to hold the collet seems to hold them securely enough. Its not like a case where you could tip it upside down. But its better than the Ziplock & shoebox routine.