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Klopp clapper

Scattered Parts

Mike
Premium Member
So I take a good look at the clapper on my Klopp 650H shaper trying to figure out why the surface finish is so poor. I figured that is was my inability to properly sharpen and shape my tools. This is only partially the problem. The main issue is that the previous owner bored out the taper pin that hold the clapper to the clapper box to a straight axle. This is not the main problem though. The pin is now worn between 0.005“ and 0.010” in the bore.

When the tool engages the work, the clapper will lift on the axle causing an uneven cut. Great. Now what? I figured I would drill out the egg shaped bore and replace the rod with a taper pin. Small dilemma now. If i get a taper pin of a size that will fit the bore at the narrow end , it would need to be significantly larger than a #10. That would mean theat the large end of the taper would be so large that it would weaken the clapper box. So now I will be adding a sleeve to the clapper box and the clapper. I can then bore it out with a taper reamer after drilling the proper sized holes to make it work. I am going to start with a #9 taper pin since i found one ling enough to work. It needs to be at least 7” in length. Picked up a reamer and now tomstart drilling.

I was watching Cutting Edge Engineering from Australia on YouTube and what do I see? A Klopp 1000H shaper that he is going to rebuild! He talked the manual that he had. I cannot find a manual for the hydraulic shapers so I sent him an email asking if he could send me a scan. Three days later ther it was in my inbox. I have sent him some pictures of the clapper lifter mechanism on my shaper since his is missing. A pretty fair deal I think. It truly is a small world.
 
You are right. Here are a few pictures that may help visualize what is going in
20220215_173640.jpg

Clapper box ith clapper. The yellow cable is part of the clapper lifter.
20220215_173845.jpg

The clapper sitting on top of the clapper box. The hole that has the pin holding them together is slightly egg shaped and the pin is worn as well as being undersized. This leads to the clapper wandering during a cut.

Pictures of the entire machine are in my other thread about the shaper. I don't have them on my phone right now so can't upload them.
 
I did think of welding or brazing, but it is cast iron and the clapper fits very snug side to side in the box. I am afraid that welding will distort things and make the repair even more difficult. The clapper only moves vertically during a cut. I may just ream it as Tom O suggested and see what happens. It would be a simple repair and i can see how the machine reacts. The taper pin is used for a reason but I’m not sure that it is that vital for how I will be using the shaper.

As usual, the more complex repair is the one I need to be talked down from. Just because it can be done doesn’t mean it needs to be done. Or so I’ve been told. Many times.
 
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