King 1440 lathe

[RobinHood]

I have a standard modern 1334 that the morse taper is a bit rough.

Do you have a picture showing what you mean by “rough”?

You might be able to knock down the high spots by using a MT3 cleaner wrapped in very fine emery cloth or fine grit wet/dry sandpaper using WD40 as a lubricant. Any dings below the surface are not going to matter.

Here is a link to a supplier (not affiliated)

https://www.traverscanada.com/morse-taper-spindle-cleaners/p/370897/

I have even used a piece of wood as a holder for the sand paper to clean out dings in the taper. Works well.

You can blue up a known good male MT3 to monitor progress of you work.

 

[Dabbler]

+1 on Robin Hood's advice

I've fixed 4 tail stocks and one mill in MT3. Each had burrs removed with emery and finished reamed to a depth of .001 or less. Each worked perfectly afterwards.

@Dirt Machinist I am surprised: If you had ever done a MT3, you'd know a finishing reamer takes a very long time to remove .001, and you seem to think .005 is possible. I suppose if I wanted to ream that much I could do it, and dull my finish reamer. Methinks you have only ever used a roughing reamer. Of course you must finish ream after rough reaming. I hope you have finished each job properly.

About hardened quills: Standard Modern quills are very soft and can easily be re-reamed. @RobinHood has 2 examples, and I've seen several others.

My 15" LeBlond has a hardened quill. I finish reamed it about 8 years ago when Bert trapped a piece of swarf into it. The job was easily done. There's hardened and there's hard.

The guy in your reference admitted at the end that the quill was soft. I'm sure he used inferior reamers.

When I actually encounter a hard quill with a Morse taper that is too hard to ream, then I'll believe it.

 

[Dirt Machinist]

Exactly what the hell is your problem Dabbler? I just joined this forum and you go out of your way to challenge anything I say. You know zero about myself or my experience. And I sure as hell didn't say a single thing about removing .005" with a reamer, re-read what I typed and not what you think I said because you have an obvious reading comprehension issue. I said removing .005" would result in the tool shank moving inward by approximately .125" That was an example and as a warning about not taking too much. And I do know the effect tail stock reaming has because I've done exactly what I said I've done. I don't give a shit if you dn't think hardened tail stocks aren't made because they are and a simple Google check does verify that. Who the hell are you to even imply I have to be lying. Fuck it, I don't need your ego building bull shit or this forum, I'm done here if your an example of the membership here.

 

[Tom O]

So there’s no common ground? Step back and breathe!

 

[Dabbler]

Perhaps one day there could have been.

 

[Janger]

Exactly what the hell is your problem Dabbler? I just joined this forum and you go out of your way to challenge anything I say. You know zero about myself or my experience. And I sure as hell didn't say a single thing about removing .005" with a reamer, re-read what I typed and not what you think I said because you have an obvious reading comprehension issue. I said removing .005" would result in the tool shank moving inward by approximately .125" That was an example and as a warning about not taking too much. And I do know the effect tail stock reaming has because I've done exactly what I said I've done. I don't give a shit if you dn't think hardened tail stocks aren't made because they are and a simple Google check does verify that. Who the hell are you to even imply I have to be lying. Fuck it, I don't need your ego building bull shit or this forum, I'm done here if your an example of the membership here.

Dirt Machinist - we don't tolerate abuse or bad language. You are banned.

 

[Janger]

I've closed this thread. I'll be posting something about this soon.

Members and friends please read: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/some-drama-on-the-forum.3108/post-40048