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K o D's Korner

KeeponDragon

KeeponDragon

no problems... just challenges
Noticed a few members just keep one thread going.I think that's a smart way to manage ones posts. And it keeps side convo's to one area lol

So I'll start with this...saw a youtuber testing out an impact anvil in a 1/4" driver gun.
I found a used impact driver on MP, and then sourced out the anvil.
Followed along with what they did, modifying the nose of the gun, and then taking down the thickness of the of the base of the anvil to match that of the original.
This sintered/forged material is cheeky to work with. But a few careful passes got er dealt with.
The gun will easily undo the lugnuts on the better 3/4's dodge dart.
It is loud though, from what I can assume is a higher rate of blows per minute.
I tried but wasn't able to keep the LED's working. The wires were damaged.
For 50 bux and an afternoon, I'm happy with the results.

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Noticed a few members just keep one thread going.I think that's a smart way to manage ones posts. And it keeps side convo's to one area lol

The only problem with that is looking back for information you don’t have a clue where it’s posted.
 
Guess that'll depend on how insightful the search function is on the board...
No way of doing things will be good enough for everyone.
Some wipe from front to back, some back to front...
 
How I got Crankenstein to do "the twist"

Distractions occur...I had started by just opening the shop door, and loading some scrap metal into the truck.
then I got to looking, and realized Tonka could be a tractor...
As the saying goes, it's not stupid if it works...right?
the shittiest part was relocating the insulating matt underneath...
 
This was after moving the power hammer...
I needed to get under Tonka to do some exhaust work. Even with a lift kit, it's too low to work under.
Two Kenworth frame crops as ramps for the win...
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Got him up part way, then positioned the front ramps to get that end up.
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I'll admit to be being a little insane, but I'm by no means stupid. The park brake was set, the pump sleeves under the ramps were chocked, and then I made sure to "anchor" him to the power hammer.
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This was a little fun to set up the phone to capture the roll off...
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Coming Down...
Off the ramps...bit of a stretch to get up into the cab lol

About an hour later, all the seams were welded up. No more exhaust leaks :)
A little bit of brainstorming, a lot of setup time, and some patience paid off.
 
KeeponDragon said:
Guess that'll depend on how insightful the search function is on the board...
No way of doing things will be good enough for everyone.
Some wipe from front to back, some back to front...
Click to expand...
The search function seems pretty broken to me. We’ve got other stuff to fix first (email omg ). I like topic based posts as then we have a thread on a subject.
 
So this came back for warranty ... customer left it behind when he was told they're only covered for a year...
Now I have the beginnings of my "DIY break in alarm"

These horns generally are of decent quality. Where they fail is in the diaphragm...guys dump methyl hydrate in their systems, which then accelerates the dry out of the rubber parts.
I tell every driver in winter time, don't use methyl hydrate...
But why listen to us right, customer always knows what's better...

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Good job man....there are enough similarities to your lathe and my circa 1916 Hendey to make me think that your machine was probably born in the Hendey factory and then re branded to Crawford.
I removed the top drive mast before moving mine to reduce athe chances of overbalancing ....worked well but was a bugger to put back on in an alignment that works ( Im not sure it is right yet).
 
Yes good work, there are always many things that "could" have happened with the move. The fork lift could have died in the middle of the street, etc.
In the shop, out of the weather, a win in my books.
One of the lessons of getting older, learning to ask for help. A very hard one! Sometimes there not much physical help, but extra set of eyes can be a big one! Yes, I know, sometimes there is no help, or everyone wants to stand around talking about how it could be done so easy with something that's not there.
No one was killed, mained, blinded, or other wise hurt. Seems the doorway was not made bigger accidently.
Yes, a win.
 
historicalarms said:
Good job man....there are enough similarities to your lathe and my circa 1916 Hendey to make me think that your machine was probably born in the Hendey factory and then re branded to Crawford.
I removed the top drive mast before moving mine to reduce athe chances of overbalancing ....worked well but was a bugger to put back on in an alignment that works ( Im not sure it is right yet).
Click to expand...
y'know what...I think that's ENTIRELY possible on it being made @ Hendey
AND...I'm 100% certain, that this is the exact same lathe that was posted for 900, a few years ago...
The tool post, had what looked like an air ratchet attached in those pics...
My tool post has a socket welded to the nut...just like in the photo's...
I'm going to take the opportunity with the drive mast off to pop the gear box off, and clean both pieces...
I was fiddling with the knobs on the apron...POWER CROSS FEED is really real...how cool is that??
seems the compound slide is frozen though...the knob won't spin at all...
Historical...are you running a QCTP on your Hendey? If so, what size ?
I should probably get back to work...the monkeys have started to arrive...parts req's will start coming through shortly...
cheers all
 
KeeponDragon said:
I was fiddling with the knobs on the apron...POWER CROSS FEED is really real...how cool is that??
seems the compound slide is frozen though...the knob won't spin at all...
Historical...are you running a QCTP on your Hendey? If so, what size ?
Click to expand...
I was absolutely amazed that my old lathe had power feed cross feed as well. Those o' boys knew what they were doing. Mine was frozen up from a few yrs of not being used by the prev owner but a little nudge with a pipe wrench freed it up...as well my compound was seized up same as yours but I discovered that a previous user had sucked the tool post down enough to jam the slide up...easily remedied. The compound snout does have a major owwie from being run into the chuck jaws at one time or another tho that i thought was the issue but wasnt.
Mine just came with an old very large "lantern tool post", probably has never had a QC on the thing...but it will when I get the time to get back to messing with that old lathe....just too many other jobs got ignored before the eye surgery that im still catching up on.

There is an excellent source for info on Practical Machinist forum for the Hendeys. One fellow has the Ser # records for the company and most likely can tell you the history of your machine. Some parts and Operators manuals also avail on PDF
 
I was all done reattaching the door frame last night...and my curiosity got the bette of me...why won't the compound move...I checked the gib screws...all of them had been cranked right in...loosened em up and haha!!!...major success it moves and moves nicely...

I am just putting an order into fleabay now for a QC kit...I'm going after a Bostar setup, as it's cheaper than Accusize...and still made in Asia...Ironically, I am also ordering an extra 4 tool holders as well...and it's still less than the Accusize kit on the jungle store...with shipping, duty an taxes...

I have seen this fellow you're talking about...Hendeyman I think is the name...I think I will reach out to him...he probably can help yes...
 
I just re-watched the vid & will comment that my hendey had a # on the trans speed plate as well but it isnt the ser # of the lathe, the ser #, if sma as mine, will be stamped on the top corner of the lathe bed , left side and at the very far end from headstock. Mine is not a very heavy roll mark and hard to see without very good lighting.
 
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