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Identity of micrometer

Tomc938

Ultra Member
Hey guys,

I have heard there are lost of counterfeit tools out there.

I was wondering if this mic looks like it really is a Mitutoyo, and if so, what are things to look for?

Thanks in advance!

Tom

Screenshot 2023-09-17 at 6.28.16 PM.webp
 
It looks to be older Tom, and therefore prolly the real deal.

That said, the logo on both the tool and the packaging doesn't look right to me
 
Looks like a real mit...older style with metal lock and thimble, new ones are plastic. I doubt someone would counterfeit an old one
 
I'd bet that's the real deal. The Japanning on the body is not easy to reproduce and looks exactly like the Japanning on my Mitu combo square set.
 
@Tomc938 - This is what my very old micrometers look like. I tried to take photos of the logo that are as clear as possible so you can do your own comparisons. My newer mitutoyo products have the same logo. Also note the way that mitutoyo is written.

20230918_180453.jpg
20230918_180544.jpg
 
Talking to the person that is selling it, I'm feeling pretty confident about it. He's a retired machinist with a nice reassuring European accent. Perhaps eastern, but all seems on the up and up.

$35 seems like a good price to me.
 
If there is one tool I would buy from Mitutoyo it's the 0-1" micrometer. I see them at pawn shops some times. $35 is a good price for that micrometer unless it was used as a C clamp. That micrometer will outlive you if you take care of it.

Ok to be honest there is a lot of stuff I would buy from Mitutoyo.
 
seems to make everything about .003 smaller than it should be.

Have you calibrated it? If it is out 3 thou routinely, it prolly just needs calibrating. With most micrometers, you do that simply by turning the barrel to align the zero marks.

Measure zero with clean anvil surfaces, make a note of what it says, back the thimble off a turn or so, turn the barrel using a small hook wrench the amount it's out. (the hook wrench prolly came with it - make one if not)

Retry until you get it right.

All the above said, get the mitutoyo anyway. Thats a good price for an old one that works. It will prolly come with the hook wrench.
 
Have you calibrated it? If it is out 3 thou routinely, it prolly just needs calibrating. With most micrometers, you do that simply by turning the barrel to align the zero marks.

Measure zero with clean anvil surfaces, make a note of what it says, back the thimble off a turn or so, turn the barrel using a small hook wrench the amount it's out. (the hook wrench prolly came with it - make one if not)

Retry until you get it right.

All the above said, get the mitutoyo anyway. Thats a good price for an old one that works. It will prolly come with the hook wrench.
I have calibrated it to zero, but doesn't measure 1" the same as my Brown and Sharpe 1-2".

I am gong to go with the new(old) mic. I'm guessing there's a reason Mitutoyo has the reputation it does.

Thanks to everyone for the input, I appreciate it.
 
I have calibrated it to zero, but doesn't measure 1" the same as my Brown and Sharpe 1-2".

I find that very odd. It's in the nature of threads to work across this range. It might need to hit the trash can or get used as a C-Clamp just for poops and giggles. But check the B&S first. Do you have gauge blocks? Or even just a 1" micrometer standard that prolly came with your B&S?
 
I have found a mic. or two that doe not measure consistently over their range, not sure why. Think maybe wear of the threads in a high useage area, perhaps having been "snugged" up a bit much and springing the frame, which may show up in faces not being parallel. Otherwise no ideas, if consistent over full range, should need an adjustment only.
 
Where I used to work we had a calibration guy. He would test everyone's personal tools to see if they were within calibration standards. If not he would either adjust them or tell you to toss them because they failed or were not repairable. He did not like Chinese micrometers. Some were made well and some were not. The people I worked with were not machinists and would some times grossly overtighten the thimble and ruin the screw threads.
 
I also forgot, if you are comparing mics. or any other measureing equipment, try to make sure every thing is the same tempature. Do not hold the mic. for 1/2 an hour and use a standard that's been sitting in a hot or cold spot. The measurement will change!!
For giggles, take a piece aluminum, 1in. or so, clean up as best possible, measure size a few times, run hot tap water on it for a minute or two, measure again. Should be a larger measurement.
Doing calibration in a nice warm house, then running out to the shop where it's about freezing to measure something that's at the shop tempature does not work either.
Or take a piece of 1/4or so rod, 2ft. or so long, clamp it in a vise uprite, heat one side of it with a hand torch rite above vise jaws. Waves around like grass in the wind when you heat and then let it cool.
 
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