I Finally Built a Shop Crane and Hoist

[CalgaryPT]

Originally I had plans for a small gantry crane, but just couldn't make it fit in my shop no matter what—and believe me, I tried. Even when I scaled down my design to a mini version of @Dabbler's terrific gantry crane I still couldn't make it work. I just have no room left.

So I ditched that idea and opted for a stationary post crane close to my work/welding bench instead. It won't lift my ironworker or get anything big into my truck, but I don't anticipate any more big moves until I'm ready to pop off and have to clean out the shop. Then I'll hire someone I guess.

It uses a 1320 lbs. Hoist Frame kit from Princess Auto (https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-320-lb-electric-hoist-frame/A-p8667446e), and one of their electric hoists. I purposely used the smallest hoist they sell (220 lbs/440 lbs) so I don't overload the setup. The vast majority of what I intend to lift falls in the <300 lbs. range: snowblowers, lawnmowers, pressure washers, etc. Either it gets lifted onto the welding bench or onto a hydraulic lift cart. So I'm hoping this will save my back (or what remains of my back). With the hoist positioned at the maximum extension (about 45") the frame is good for about 660 lbs.

The post is a 1/4" wall 48 mm pipe (about 1 7/8" OD). It's welded to a 14" square 1/2" base plate with four 7" x 11" gussets cut from 3/16" plate. The ceiling plate is an 8" x 36", 3/16" piece lag bolted to the I-beam joists (we have a bonus room above our garage/shop). I would have liked to rip out drywall and add cross members to the joists, but it wasn't in the cards (as "clarified" by my wife). The sleeve setup I had to think up. It allowed me to position the post and tighten it down against lateral forces, yet still unbolt it from the floor and lift it off its base if needed. A laser plumb bob was a huge help with this job. I posted a separate thread on the BigGator Tools V-Guides I used for drilling and tapping the four holes in the round sleeve.

I got out of my comfort zone with the anchoring this time around. As much as I love concrete anchors and RedHead sleeves, I'd always wanted to try the new anchor adhesives like EPCON A7+. Holy cow, was I impressed. You only need a minimum of 1/16" slop in the holes, so for my 1/2" All-thread I needed 9/16" holes. I used a Bosch Rotary Hammer, which only took 30 secs (or less) per hole. The only issue I had was that one part of the floor was a little shallower than the rest and I pushed through a single hole just around 3". A simple fix is to turn down a wooden dowel just to the point where it wants to fall through; this way you tap it in until it just sits at the bottom of the hole and holds the adhesive during set up (about 5 mins at the day's temperature). I always use three holes per side on base plates whenever possible; that way, if you hit rebar—you've got a backup plan. In my case one hole landed on a preexisting crack so I didn't drill that one for fear of splitting it further. Having said this, EPCON says the adhesive is safe for cracked concrete (I think that means it expands minimally); I just didn't want to risk making the crack worse with the rotary hammer.

After set up I waited about an hour (more than the instructions require). I thought I'd gently test the adhesive, thinking it may not work to my satisfaction and I'd be re-drilling. With a 1/2" ratchet and a 3/4" socket I first tried to lightly tug on the nuts, then kept adding more torque. I was expecting it to give at some point, but it just held rock solid. I should have put a torque wrench on it, but I was so taken aback by how well this crazy stuff worked I wasn't thinking I guess. Try as hard as I could, I couldn't make the adhesive budge. As usual I hurt my rotator cuffs, so I cursed a little and quit at that point. But I'm super impressed. Even in 2000 psi concrete you get 10,000 lbs, tension and 8000 lbs. shear strength for my application. The best part about this stuff is you get a few minutes of play and sideways forgiveness—unlike anchor bolts. It is expensive ($30/tube)—but offset by the zero risk associated with anchor bolt positioning and thread damage, plus the fact that you can just use left over All-thread as anchors. Home Depot sells the adhesive, and there's a great video of it on YouTube.

I'm a fan now. I'm glad I tried it, regret scoffing at it for years, and will use it going forward whenever I can.

My thanks to @Dabbler for checking my trig on the original crane design...I greatly appreciate that John. Thanks again

The good looking kid at the end is my son, not me. Obviously.

 

[Everett]

Nice setup! That will work very well, no use wrecking your back - even for a hobby. Even to be able to just unload heavy parts from your pickup or trailer under cover is very useful. I've been wondering how one could have a crane in a suburbanite garage (like mine) so thanks for sharing!

 

[Marc Moreau]

Nice job

 

[RobinHood]

Good job on your crane - well engineered.

I'd always wanted to try the new anchor adhesives like EPCON A7+.

I was considering anchor epoxy for my big project (write-up in the future) versus anchor bolts. The only reason I stayed away from it was the concern that it can “creep” under load over time and thus the pull-out force required decreases. In my application that is a concern as there are not only shear forces acting on the bolts, but also (mainly) pull forces.

 

[CalgaryPT]

I've heard of that too, so you've obviously done your research. I believe the phenomenon you're referring to is called "creep failure" and was cited in the Ted Williams (Boston) Big Dig accident that used cold cured epoxy in 2007.

I understand the phenomenon still exists, although the epoxies today are less likely to fail. Also, the Ted Wiliiams example was overhang, not floor anchor. Not sure of your specific application (and note that I am only a mechanical engineering drop-out), but for my forces involved (it was 26 tons in Boston), I'm willing to risk it. I recall there were issues with both the quality of the epoxy as well as the spec of the bolts used in Boston ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Dig_ceiling_collapse ).

If I were doing an overhang project, I'd think differently too. Sounds like you're looking at options. Kudos to you. Please post in the future so we can all learn

 

[RobinHood]

For sure no concerns whatsoever in your application as you have a ceiling support. Very little pull-out force other than the actual bolt torque.

Yes, I am aware of the problems involving the “Big Dig”. I am sure the epoxy formulations have changed since then. It was a failure of overhead structures. In my project the engineer specified J anchors during the concrete pour or concrete anchor bolts after. I was trying to find technical data of epoxy in anchors that specifically addressed the longevity under continuous load and varying loads. Not being an engineer myself, I did not feel comfortable doing the substitute without a stamp of approval - so I left it alone. Maybe in the future, for something less critical...

 

[Dabbler]

When we set anchor bolts in caving we use a similar product rated for live loads. It is a cross-linked polyester compound that is suited to high moisture applications. The modern adhesives are rated for 15 years use.

Really super design. It will serve perfectly. Nice choice on the Hoist frame kit - the whole package is really impressive!

It is really hard to invest in a design and then abandon it for a better idea. Most people would stick with their first idea no matter what. I'd like to see it in person when the COVID19 thing is less a problem.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Engineering is fascinating. My favourite case study for overhead loads is the famous Hyatt Regency Collapse, which every engineering student learns about now.

And for the record, I too recall hearing that mountain climbers and cavers were instrumental in the development of advanced adhesives, so I don't doubt this for a second. Nothing says safety like a guy hanging from a cliff.

 

[Dabbler]

Cavers always put our anchors in shear. Our guidelines only allow a 20 degree deviation from perpendicular.

I'd never trust an overhead anchor with my life.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Just thinking about going into a cave creeps me out. Overhead anchors would be the least of my issues.

 

[DavidR8]

Nice work Pete!

 

[Tom Kitta]

Interesting setup - I am going to build similar crane but utlizing the jib from the princess auto engine hoist. Pipe would be on a bearing in the floor. The jib will lift with hydraulic cylinder same as on PA engine hoist.

I also build some time engine hoist.... but given numerous failures of the project I am too embarrassed to post it. At least I found out all weak points that need to be stronger and the reason why the engine hoist has such a short main column.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Post when you get it worked out. We all have those projects that end up in the scrap heap.

You know those typical interviews with lawyers and subject matter experts of all kinds on TV—the ones where they are always positioned in front of their big bookshelves to show everyone how smart they are? I always look at my scrap pile and think, "Man, now those projects made me smarter."

So think of it that way

 

[PeterT]

Post the failures too. We learn just as much (or more) by how NOT to go about it. Chances are good that someone else has the same idea.

 

[Tom Kitta]

I sold my wood bandsaw and will set it up for loading & will take few pictures - maybe circle the areas that are an issue.

Indeed I learned a lot. I learned how not to build things and learned also how a crane does lift weight. In this case the weight is trying to "turn" my shop crane.

 

[Hruul]

Very nice setup, really impressed and gave me some new ideas for my garage.

 

[Tom Kitta]

So this is not how to build a shop crane. Where you see bricks (not needed for this load) is failure point - hence extra welding on top. Where there is first set of wheels the weld also bent (not broke) and hence 2nd set of wheels is about 10cm in the air. The bars welded on top are there to prevent 10cm from becoming 20cm and failure.

The main shaft is about 6ft - 2ft longer then in PA shop crane - it is too long - or should be much stronger for that length as it bends.

I am going to eventually replace this with a bridge crane as this design is only good for small things - larger things do not fit between two frontal legs and create all sorts of issues.

In case someone wants to build such a crane - note where failure points are and make them extra strong. Issue is not so much welding but actual weakness of steel members - where there are bricks the legs totally collapsed when item was just off the ground - the hardest on this member load.

 

[CalgaryPT]

Well, thanks for posting. I used to have a similar crane that I sold to a forum member. I loved the crane but the footprint was impractical for most equipment. I know a lot of guys modify them to handle wider loads, but I kind of gave up with mine. I think a gantry crane is the best approach but as stated, I don't have the room. You can rent them, which is what I will likely do if needed.

BTW, in the 1960's the comedian Woody Allen wrote a funny piece about sandwiches where the Earl of Sandwich experiments with different designs: meat surrounding a piece of bread, two slices of bread with a piece of meat on top of it, etc., until he finally figures out the final design of meat between two pieces of bread. Point is—more things are invented through experimentation than engineering...so never worry about design failures if no one gets hurt. I call that education.

 

[Tom O]

I used to have a similar crane that I sold to a forum member
It still works fine too!

 

[Tom Kitta]

Here is series of videos I use to build a split bearing and then a mount for my rotary crane.

- here towards the end is the crane in all its glory.

just a wall mount making