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Hot Start and Arc Force

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Downwindtracker2

Super User
Gone are the days of wandering over to the industrial Miller, checking the polarity, cranking the knob and flipping the switch. I'm retired now, and have a KMS's Magnum Wave 200 TIG/Stick welder . It seems it's another thing that has to be programmed. I can't get an usable arc, much too weak . I'm using 7014 3/32 and I think I've adjusted it to 90 amps. 7014 is just a deluxe 6013, I know I could burn 7018 3/32 at 90 and weld. (but it's better at 110) I have used 7014 on this welder before but I must have thrown the setting off and can't get back there.
 
It's on correct mode, I had to bring out the magnifying glass to check. Fresh and dry rods, who has those ? That's like getting 7018 out of an oven. I've heard of it but never done it. 7014 is one step up from 6013, the 'ol tinbasher rod . I got a bunch of it so I use it. It's not bad, it fills better 6013, but not as well as 7018 . But you don't have to run it as hot.
 
Thank you, that one minute welding job is done. I didn't check the setting, it was hot, which was fine. I think the last time the welder was used for stick, my son welded a new tongue frame on to my utility trailer with 7018. I found I had a hard time welding overhead laying on my back. I wasn't strong enough to manage the arc. My son is millwright ,too.

At the time KMS was just across the freeway from me. A bit too handy, in fact. I was just looking for a simple stick machine, I had some stainless stick welding to do . Using the MIG would involve buying another bottle for the Tri-mix . When I saw the price , knowing KMS, they bought a bunch and needed to get some out the door to pay the banker. It was a very good deal. But it was also a bare machine, no stinger,no foot pedal or flow meter. A poor excuse for a manual. ESAB wrote a good manual for their Shanghai Electric 186i . A very similar machine . No mention of setting up Hot Start or Arc Force in it either.
 
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From what I comprehended, arc force is hotter voltage? and hot start is max amps when striking, then ramped down to set amps?
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
I know I could burn 7018 3/32 at 90 and weld. (but it's better at 110
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Are you saying this for that particular machine ? Or are you saying this in general for yourself

If you find you need to run 3/32 7018 on that machine at 110 it's quite possible the displays are out to lunch, 110 for 3/32 is practically incinerate for that size rod
 
Downwindtracker2 said:
Yes it was. I'm getting old and stupid.

The HuGong (sp) Electric machine have good reviews in Africa , New Zealand and Australia .
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I have a similar Chicom machine. If you hope for a nice stick welder, you have to buy one. Reviews in Africa show welders in sandals with tough feet:eek:
dehved said:
From what I comprehended, arc force is hotter voltage? and hot start is max amps when striking, then ramped down to set amps?
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Arc force is also called dig, for the reason of the crater. It senses when the arc is shortened and cuts volt and boosts amps. Hot start is just that, and for lo-hy rod should be 30-40%. Lower makes a smooth buttery weld
 
I would never buy any kind of chineese welding machine.
You can weld all day long with this one, no digital display or electronics here kids.
Ive restored it, cleaned, painted and lubed the adjusting mechanism.
Put a stand and casters under it. Theres over 200ft of cable some is brand new.
If anyone likes this machine PM me.
 

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The above post brings me to mind of an old truism about online life in general, in that when you ask how best to cook a steak, there is always gonna be that person to tell you you shoulda had chicken instead! :)
 
trevj said:
The above post brings me to mind of an old truism about online life in general, in that when you ask how best to cook a steak, there is always gonna be that person to tell you you shoulda had chicken instead! :)
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I don't think that @wmetfab's post was really that different, but your comment is funny as hell anyway.

The metal working world is certainly like that. The different possibilities, experiences, and advice are endless. I'm not as worried about chicken and steak as I am about someone suggesting barbecued snake.
 
Susquatch said:
I would have defected right then and there.
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Nah. We were in a Camp in Velika Kladusa, Bosnia. The Head Cook was a civilian who rotated between Military camps, Cruise ships, and higher end resorts.

Every Wednesday (maybe it was Thursday), there would be 'something different' on the dinner menu as a choice. So we had almost all manner of game meats, and odd stuff that we could never get at home. Alligator, various antelope, venison, wild boar, rattlesnake, and a bunch of other stuff. All farmed and sourced commercially.
We didn't HAVE to eat the odd stuff, it was a willing choice. It sorta became something to look forward to, as the prep was always first rate!
 
A yes the old buzz box it works but compared to some of the mid grade Chinese machines it's comparing round steak to a top sirloin.

They have a place but if your gonna buy a tombstone welder buy a AC/DC one avoid AC only. You can buy rods meant for AC welding but DC can burn pretty much anything.

I always recommend buying a low end 220v Chinese welder vs tombstone if you plan on getting into Tig welding.

Only real reason to buy the tombstone welder these days is if you need a stick welder only and want it to live in a barn and use once every couple years for the next 40 years and it should still work everytime you need it lol.
 
This puppy is 50 yrs old solid copper windings, u can fry large rods with it all day long and it wont pop a board. Nice stable arc with dig.
Chicken cordon blue baby.
Save your tough steak and snakes for stew
 
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