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Help drawing flag holder

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
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Could someone draw that for me to model it, please?

Can maybe @CalgaryPT tell me how tight I can make the top bend?

I think I’ll suck at explaining this- if the top piece drops over the top of the rub rail, then with the welded on nut I can use a bolt to tighten against the rub rail to hold the bracket in place

Then I can mount my flags to the bracket

The one in the picture is meant to be bolted on

I want to have them be removable and not drill any holes
 
Assuming material is A36 steel? What's the material thickness, and what process are you using to bend?

Please tell us you're not flying a Celtics flag....
 
I would probably ask to have it made out of stainless. I’m also not against having a the top piece get welded to the bottom piece, if tubing or channel would be easier to fabricate this

I have no idea what they would use to bend it

The one I have appears to be 12 gauge, again, it doesn’t have to be 12 gauge, it could be 1/4” thick

No Celtics flag I can snag a pic in a few minutes
 
I'm out of my comfort zone with stainless and my charts only work for 90°. This is the chart I use all the time, but it doesn't reference 180°( https://www.thefabricator.com/thefa...minimum-versus-recommended-inside-bend-radius ). I seem to recall that after 4X the minimum bend radius in A36 (for longitudinal bends) there is negligible stress introduced for the second half of the (180°) bend. I'm sure it would be more than 4X for stainless as it is more brittle. So depending on the thickness of the rub rail it might make sense to machine rather than bend it???

Question: does the thickness of a rub rail vary? Do you need to allow for this with something that is adjustable?
 
I never thought of machining it. One 6” piece of 1”x1” square stock and use a 5/8” cutter up the centre then cut into 4 equal length pieces. Then weld a flat plate on a 45 degree and weld on a nut

I’m “assuming” an aluminum rub rail will be the thickest one, I can measure a steel trailer this week.

If the rub rail is 3/8”-1/2”, and I make the slot 5/8”, that gives it room to slide over then the bolt will tighten things together
 
And maybe allow room for a nut on the bolt so you can snug it up and it won't come loose?????
 
And maybe allow room for a nut on the bolt so you can snug it up and it won't come loose?????
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I was thinking of copycatting that idea, there’s one bolt top and bottom, they jam up against the bumper and hold it in place, only there’s threads in the stainless. I had the nut welded on the other pipe because it’s much thinner.
 
Got it. Sorry, I meant put a nut on the top bolt so you can snug it up to the fender/rub rail to prevent it from coming loose.

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Ahh I’m with you now, thread a second nut on first then use that as a jam nut

Also, there’s no reason the top part has to stay 1 1/2” wide, it could be wider to allow a second mounting bolt
 
maybe a safety line so if it does fall off it does not go flying? overkill probably? Two nuts for the flag bolts?
 
maybe a safety line so if it does fall off it does not go flying? overkill probably? Two nuts for the flag bolts?
The ones on the bumper have been ok, I’ve had them for a few years now. It wouldn’t take much to put a zip tie around the rub rail as an extra means to attach it
 
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I’m so dumb:D
I forgot I had a strap winder that is designed to fit on a rub rail :rolleyes:

Anyway @Brent H I’ll let you noodle it over but that “sketch” was my idea. I can’t quickly or cheaply source the quick attach mounts BUT if we made the footprint the same I can swap them later. Or if they work well no need to replace them. Basically steal the flag mounting portion of the first set of brackets, that way I can get some of the flags on a stick for this trip.

I actually lost one of my quick attach flags last week and had to improvise. Getting two flags couriered up to North Bay as we speak. I also need a couple metric lock nuts :rolleyes:
 
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