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Harold Hall Mill Bit Sharpener

YotaBota said:
In theory I don't think it should matter if the pin is attached to the stop or the body, as long as the stop slides freely.
For the mounting bracket if you drill out the rivets, is there room between the guard and the wheel to allow bolting the bracket back on? If that works then drill the new support bracket to match the holes in the guard and carry on.
So far so good.
Click to expand...

I've been considering removing the mounting bracket and replacing it but the amount of lateral flex in the guard has me concerned, it's pretty flimsy. That factory mounting bracket is held by a single rivet BTB. How solid laterally is your setup?
 
Well..... this is turning into a bit of a gong show. That factory mounting bracket has to come off my grinder regardless of how I mount the jig table.

FACTORYREST.JPG


Not only is it riveted on, it's spot welded to boot. Thank you Powerfist:(

Time to dig out the Dremel I guess.
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
No height adjustments required once it's set up. Which parts are you finding confusing?

Craig
Click to expand...
I am not clear on the function of the two pieces. Are they attached or is one piece basically a guide/stop for the movement of the end mill holder? What is the purpose of the 4 holes? I need to re-read the article again.
 
Brian H said:
I am not clear on the function of the two pieces. Are they attached or is one piece basically a guide/stop for the movement of the end mill holder? What is the purpose of the 4 holes? I need to re-read the article again.
Click to expand...

The body with stop are bolted to the table. The tool holder simply slides along the body with the stop dictating depth of tool plunge. With the stop retracted the 4 holes allows the body/stop to be positioned such that the end mill mounted in the tool holder is just shy of touching the grinder wheel. With every thing set up you now advance the stop towards the grinder wheel using the feed screw which is 0.001" approx. (for a 40 TPI feed screw) per hash mark on dial.

Does that make sense now?
 
YYCHobbyMachinist said:
The body with stop are bolted to the table. The tool holder simply slides along the body with the stop dictating depth of tool plunge. With the stop retracted the 4 holes allows the body/stop to be positioned such that the end mill mounted in the tool holder is just shy of touching the grinder wheel. With every thing set up you now advance the stop towards the grinder wheel using the feed screw which is 0.001" approx. (for a 40 TPI feed screw) per hash mark on dial.

Does that make sense now?
Click to expand...

Yes. Thanks for the explanation.
 
@YotaBota What size is your bench grinder?

TESTFIT.JPG


The only way I can make this work is to fir the rest out a good 5/8" from the support bracket. Starting to look like I'll have to build a wood base to make this all come together:(
 
Mine is a 6" Delta Shopmaster, the tables bolt on. The guard isn't very stiff either but then there isn't a lot of pressure needed so it doesn't move around at all. What about a support that is long enough to use a bolt at the front of the guard and a bolt an inch or two back. The bolts on mine are horizontally about an inch apart ( shows in the first pic I posted) and that stiffens it up quite a bit more than the bolts being vertical. I used 1/4 x 1 1/2 for my support and it worked out well.
Lee Valley has nice stand that mounts to the table if you need ideas.
 
Well...… I impressed, this thing actually does work!

FINAL1.JPG


FINAL2.JPG


FINAL3.JPG


A re-sharpened 1/2" 2 Flt cut like a champ. I don't retire end mills until they are crying uncle so I know this has been a success.
 
Gotta love it when plans actually work, now you can buy more tools with the money saved not buying new bits.:)
 
Could you, if still needed, just make a bracket from the base of the grinder for added stability?
 
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