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Harold Hall Mill Bit Sharpener

YotaBota

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
It Works!!!!.
Here is a link to the instructions and prints, http://homews.co.uk/page121.html
It worked out pretty well, I changed the measurements to imperial (ish) and used what material I had on hand. The M4 and M5 were changed to 10-32 and I used 5/16 NC bolts instead of the M6 stated. Where it called for a 1/4 -40 thread I just used a 1/4 -28 since I don't have a 40 thread tap. The body was drilled using 1/4, 11/32 and 1/2 inch and then the stop was machined to fit the body. For the PIN, I didn't like the idea of riveting so I used a shouldered 4-40 screw, threaded the stop to match, cut the shoulder about a 1/2 inch long then used LockTite to hold the pin in the body. Now there is no chance of the "rivet" coming loose and it still lined up well with the body.
A word of caution - when you touch the mill bit to the wheel it only takes a half a second for the end of the bit to turn blue, you need to use short touches and low pressure against the wheel.
I'm going to call this one done, now onto the carriage stop.
 

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NICE!!!! You going to offering a sharpening service now? I have a dozen or so EMs that need some TLC.

Craig
 
I think I'll pass on the sharpening service, I have enough of my own bits to sharpen;). Your wobbler turned out well, this should be a breeze for you to put together.
 
Ya, I've been eye balling that very same jig you built for quite some time now. Time to get her done I think.
 
Well..... you inspired me to get her started.

RawStock.JPG


Made the 1/2" tool holder today. Tomorrow I'll tackle the body and stop.

Cheers,

Craig
 
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Yeah I should start thinking of making some endmills sharper I own a TC&G and I have one of these air bearing gizmos - should at least get it all working. For sharpening the front only I also have a little fixture that takes 5C collets so I can do bigger stuff (air bearing maxes at 5/8).
 
You did the easy part first:). Amazon delivered me a new set of 3/8 bits so I need to make a holder for them, sounds like today's project.
 
YotaBota said:
It Works!!!!.
Here is a link to the instructions and prints, http://homews.co.uk/page121.html
It worked out pretty well, I changed the measurements to imperial (ish) and used what material I had on hand. The M4 and M5 were changed to 10-32 and I used 5/16 NC bolts instead of the M6 stated. Where it called for a 1/4 -40 thread I just used a 1/4 -28 since I don't have a 40 thread tap. The body was drilled using 1/4, 11/32 and 1/2 inch and then the stop was machined to fit the body. For the PIN, I didn't like the idea of riveting so I used a shouldered 4-40 screw, threaded the stop to match, cut the shoulder about a 1/2 inch long then used LockTite to hold the pin in the body. Now there is no chance of the "rivet" coming loose and it still lined up well with the body.
A word of caution - when you touch the mill bit to the wheel it only takes a half a second for the end of the bit to turn blue, you need to use short touches and low pressure against the wheel.
I'm going to call this one done, now onto the carriage stop.
Click to expand...

That is an awesome little project. Nice Job!
Now I have another tool to make...and I thought I was getting caught up with my "things to do" list...LOL
 
Well..... Busy Bee in Calgary is closed until further notice. Now I'm really motivated to get this jig up and running.

I've discovered a SNAFU with the design. It doesn't accommodate ends mills 1" and larger:mad:
 
I had same vise on my mini mill like 4 years ago or 5. It was a bit ... big. I used it later on as a drill press vise - not very precise - got it from KMS & sold it few months ago.
 
BODY.JPG


Progress. Tool holder, body, stop and feed screw (1/4 X 20)

I hate metric plans, they just send me into a dither on how to sub metric to imperial.

This post is actually 3 days older than time tagged. Guess I never saved?
 
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First brain fart of the project.....

BODY1.JPG


That pin was supposed to follow the stop!!! Couldn't figure out why the plans called for riveting the pin????? Rivet it to what? Now I get it LOL. Oh well, will be making another stop when my 1/4X40 tap arrives.

GRINDER.JPG


Can't proceed with the table until I figure out how it's going to mount on my bench grinder. That factory table bracket is a problem, it's riveted on!!
 
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YYCHobbyMachinist said:
First brain fart of the project.....

View attachment 8451

That pin was supposed to follow the stop!!! Couldn't figure out why the plans called for riveting the pin????? Rivet it to what? Now I get it LOL. Oh well, will be making another stop when my 1/4X40 tap arrives.

View attachment 8452

Can't proceed with the table until I figure out how it's going to mount on my bench grinder. That factory table bracket is a problem, it's riveted on!!
Click to expand...

That looks pretty nice.
(It would appear we shop at the same store...PA blue...LOL)
I have seen a couple youtubers that have made full width tables for their bench grinders would that be an advantage here? Do you have to adjust the height for each diam. of cutter? I read through the webpage and I was confused about a couple parts.
 
In theory I don't think it should matter if the pin is attached to the stop or the body, as long as the stop slides freely.
For the mounting bracket if you drill out the rivets, is there room between the guard and the wheel to allow bolting the bracket back on? If that works then drill the new support bracket to match the holes in the guard and carry on.
So far so good.
 
Brian H said:
That looks pretty nice.
(It would appear we shop at the same store...PA blue...LOL)
I have seen a couple youtubers that have made full width tables for their bench grinders would that be an advantage here? Do you have to adjust the height for each diam. of cutter? I read through the webpage and I was confused about a couple parts.
Click to expand...

No height adjustments required once it's set up. Which parts are you finding confusing?

Craig
 
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