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Guide studs- how would you make these

Chicken lights

Forum Pony Express Driver
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I need to change the water pump on my big truck. The manual says to remove two bolts, reinstall two guide studs then remove the remaining three bolts.

I’m not actually sure it’s critical on disassembly but I could see it for reassembly purposes.

So I ordered in a couple new bolts to get the size and thread pitch. I believe M10 x 1.5 x 80 mm. I was going to grab a couple grade 8 bolts on Monday, maybe an inch longer than the new ones

Do I grab a zip disc, cut the bolt head off, then cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver?

Grind two flats for a wrench?

Take them and have four flats milled, to use a socket on them?

I’m leaning towards the last option, but curious how you guys would approach this.

I guess if I got two short pieces of metric allthread I could just double nut them, wind them in, then take the nuts off...

Thoughts?
 
My take is that their purpose is to hold the pump in place while you remove the remaining bolts and assist in getting the pump in the right place until you get some bolts started. Shouldn't require grade 8 bolts and the only have to go in finger tight. If you don't over tighten them putting them in they should come out with a pair of pliers. I suspect it may be tight quarters?
 
Agree w/ @ducdon . They are for guide purposes. Make sure the internal threads are clean and just hand tighten. Vise grips will remove if they get over torqued--but don't do this, just hand tighten and you'll be fine.
 
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It’s hard to show you this with any kind of scale. Suffice to say the new water pump is at least forty pounds and the box it’s in is about one foot square.

I think what I’m thinking is there’s not much hope of me holding the old one with one hand while I remove the bolts, there’s a chance it could wreck the threads on the last bolt as it comes out.

Because I don’t know what the threads are going to be like until I start pulling bolts, I don’t know if I could thread the guide studs in with my fingers, and possibly would need to use a screwdriver or a wrench.

I agree, with the old one out, spin thread chasers, clean up the threads, spin the studs in, vise grips to remove if needed. Good plan

I’m still pondering disassembly with no damage to anything

I circled in green where it is on the truck, it’s not THAT buried but it’s not exactly out in the open either

Thanks fellas
 
Put a ruler or tape measure in your image to give us some perspective of scale. A 40# WP has got to be a big sucker.

I remember changing out the WP in my 80's vintage F150. Ended up having to pull the RAD, Alternator.... it went on and on. Bruised knuckles, couple of broken bolts. Ended up installing the WP sans one bolt. Swore I would never attempt that kind of repair again.

I was young and poor and had no choice really LOL.

Good Luck and be safe.
 
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Put a ruler or tape measure in your image to give us some perspective of scale. A 40# WP has got to be a big sucker.

I remember changing out the WP in my 80's vintage F150. Ended up having to pull the RAD, Alternator.... it went on and on. Bruised knuckles, couple of broken bolts. Swore I would never attempt that kind of repair again.

I was young and poor and had no choice really LOL.
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How’s that?
 
So I’d either get another pair of hands or suspend it with a block & tackle or picker, even a rope on a stick adjusted by arching the back etc!
 
So I’d either get another pair of hands or suspend it with a block & tackle or picker, even a rope on a stick adjusted by arching the back etc!
When I did the power steering gearbox I used my shop loader with a jib attachment. It worked...but it was like fly fishing with a crane.
That idea had crossed my mind but having a second pair of hands is the best answer I think

Having a second pair of hands is awesome, but it’s getting harder and harder to find them
 
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