Gas fitter question

[slow-poke]

Picked up a new dual fuel BBQ yesterday, also ordered the natural gas conversion kit. Installing the kit seems really simple; remove the propane jets, and replace the propane regulator hose assembly with the supplied natural gas quick connect hose.

Fortunately under the deck and very close to where the BBQ will be located there is a large gas supply pipe that runs along the back of the house on the outside wall just under the deck. Looks to be about 2" and then there is a "T" with a smaller looks like 1" or so pipe that then splits again to feed two indoor fireplaces.

Running the line for the BBQ can be done in a few different ways. At the main T there are two unused capped stubs, one looks to be 1/2 pipe and the other 2".

Option A: install a valve and quick connect to either of those stubs and then use the supplied N.G. quick connect hose to the new quick connect. Downside for the supplied hose to reach, the BBQ will need to shifted over to an ok but less desirable location, or I can order a longer hose. Also the turn off valve will be in a less convenient location.

Option B: Add a 10-15' or so length of the yellow jacketed copper gas pipe to one of the unused ports with the other end being very close to the BBQ terminated with the turn off valve and quick connect right next to the ideal BBQ location.

Two quotes today:
a) $350
b) $750

T junction is easily accessible with just a two foot step. I would imagine a) will take 30 minutes, and b) about an hour.

Obviously this needs to be done by a licensed gas guy for insurance purposes, but the actual job appears near trivial, correct fittings, correct pipe dope, screw them together a few clamps. What is a fair and reasonable price to pay for this?

Location is Ottawa.

 

[boilerhouse]

Option B quote sounded pricey to me but I am not in the trade. I would start by getting a couple more quotes and take it from there.

 

[Doggggboy]

Option B quote sounded pricey to me but I am not in the trade. I would start by getting a couple more quotes and take it from there.

Last year here in Sask I had an outdoor pool heater installed. The first quote was much higher than the second quote but only because he was trying to markup the cost of the permits by about $1000. Completely illegal. The inspector told me the installer has to charge exactly what the permit cost is with no upcharge. He said they can charge an "administration" fee or an "I hate doing paperwork" fee but it has to be detailed as such. Check your area for the actual fee structure.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Don't know if this will help. After the main gas regulator the pipes run 2 PSI gas. The BBQ requires 11" gas pressure. The Foundry uses the 2 PSI directly.
So from inside the house out to the edge of the deck there's a T fitting. To the left it goes to the foundry area. To the right via the smaller copper tube goes around the edge of the deck and up.


The copper enters this box and through the 2 PSI to 1" regulator which then goes via flex hose to the BBQ in which I installed a Nat Gas Jet.

 

[Aliva]

Years ago I installed an NG furnace in my garage. I did all the lines my self. It's perfectly ok to do it yourself on your own property. It's the same as doing your own electrical. Have it inspected by your NG supplier. I was told to pressure test the line for 24 hrs. @ 25psi. There should be no more than a .5 psi drop in 24 hrs. Then just right up a card with the date , test pressure , duration , pressure drop if any, and sign it ,then attach it to the gas line. In my case I also had to paint the gas line yellow, I believe because it was in view on the garage ceiling .If you have to reduce the pipe size at any point, be sure you use a bell reducer, reducing bushings are not acceptable, use Masters Metallic pipe dope on all fittings. Don't wipe all the excess pipe dope off the pipe joint, the inspector wants to see evidence that you used the proper dope. There is Teflon tape for NG but my inspector wanted dope. If you have to plug a line, a cap must be used no pipe plugs. If you need to go thru a wall whether wood or brick, you must use a chase so the pipe wont come in contact with the wall or brick. If you need a valve be sure it's NG rated. It will have WOG stamped in the body somewhere. ( ball valves are recommended for there quick activation) .Also the pipe must be black iron schedule 40 , no galvanized pipe. If the pipe is going thru a wall from a warm environment ( house) to a cold environment ( outside) there must be a capped drip leg of at least 6 inches long located on the warm side.
Contact your NG supplier to confirm that all these procedure's are still acceptable as the regs are continually being updated.
Hope this gives you insight, and saves you some $

 

[boilerhouse]

Pretty sure that with the current TSSA regulations, a homeowner can no longer do their own gas fittings - According to the TSSA website - all install and service of gas appliances must be done by TSSA trained and certified technicians. .

Fortunately for us DIY'ers the electrical world has not gone in that direction - yet. (At least not in Ontario)

 

[slow-poke]

Anyone know 24Hr test pressure for black pipe Ontario?

 

[Susquatch]

Anyone know 24Hr test pressure for black pipe Ontario?

I believe it's 50 psig with air with no discernible drop for 24 hours. But it's been years since I touched this question.

 

[Aliva]

Anyone know 24Hr test pressure for black pipe Ontario?

When I did mine it was 25psi