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foundry is ready to go to work

There’s a book ”Gas Burners For Forges, Furnaces & Kilns by Michael Porter” that has an excellent burner design and forge design. Mike was a member of one of the Yahoo casting groups that I belonged to. He was big into burner design, to the extreme. Apparently they run hot enough to give off UV so eye protection was advised. There are PDF copies of his book out there. I don’t know what his publisher thought but Mike wasn’t concerned. He just wanted to share his work.
 
Brian H said:
Yes it is a 20# tank that was out of date and couldn't be re-certified. I am using propane. I built the same style burners I used in my forge. I will need to do some testing to try to regulate the heat and maintain a constant temperature when I'm smelting. If I understand correctly, brass is a bit fussy with the temp you use so you don't burn off the zinc. We will see.
I am going to start by just refining to ingots first. This is supposed to help with any impurities when you actually do a casting.
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The kaowool heats up faster than the plaster ones I was looking at the temperatures in the next week thinking it was time to melt some ingots! Use a brick or pottery shelf for the crucible when you pull it out. When you want to pick up sand try Burnco and get Golden Sand it leaves a good finish because it is a sand for grout so is fine like a facing sand.
 
I went with potter shelf and no cement on my wool, no drainage, if I have a melt down I get a nice plate of aluminum out without much damage, I use steel nuts to elevate my crucible so they do not get stuck in the aluminum unless they cool off,
 
There is no drain in mine either so if it leaks I’ll have a excuse to mate the lid to the body better, it is also using a blower instead of the stand-alone types for more heat.
 
I had a wheel stuck on my F150 I just couldn’t get that bastard off in the parking lot luckily I was able to pump it up and drive home ( @ 2:00 AM ). They had to take a sledge to the tire ( while inflated ) to get it to release so how the hell do you get it off deflated?
What I have done with other vehicles with a quick leak is carry some screws to screw into the hole plugging it that way in a emergence or 20 deg below.
 
The aluminum corrodes over time and they start to stick on the hub. Same with putting them on if they are corroded. They will not go on straight, the lug nuts will all tighten up and then after driving for a bit the lug nuts will come loose from the rim not sitting straight when it was put on. Had a problem with that on my wife's old car.
 
Tom O said:
I had a wheel stuck on my F150 I just couldn’t get that bastard off in the parking lot luckily I was able to pump it up and drive home ( @ 2:00 AM ). They had to take a sledge to the tire ( while inflated ) to get it to release so how the hell do you get it off deflated?
What I have done with other vehicles with a quick leak is carry some screws to screw into the hole plugging it that way in a emergence or 20 deg below.
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I do know of a few fuel stops that had a metal clad building that "donated" a metal screw or two to the cause of "continuing down the road" without further interruption. Some of those screws with a dab of rubber glue on the treads traveled thousands of miles, the head would wear off but the shank would continue to seal the leak.

And yes, those shiny polished alum. "Bud" wheels on semi's do get alum-oxided to a hub, so much so that a severe beating with a 16 lb. "FBH" is required.
 
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