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Product Fine tooth hole saw?
- Thread starter DavidR8
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Former Member
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Price wise they are good (you can pay a lot more but nothing is gained other than spending more money).
Secret is using good rigidity for both the bit and the work pc. Consent speed (not too fast) and easy feed, let it do the work.
It was an expensive lesson to learn all this.
Price wise they are good (you can pay a lot more but nothing is gained other than spending more money).
Secret is using good rigidity for both the bit and the work pc. Consent speed (not too fast) and easy feed, let it do the work.
It was an expensive lesson to learn all this.
That carbide looks coarser than the typical coarse tooth bi-metal? I know I've seen 'fine teeth' in the big box stores Makita? Dewalt? Lennox? but just not landing on them. The regular bi-metal work surprisingly well but I they really need to have both part & drill supported vs freehand & use the center pilot drill if you can, especially where you initially only have partial contact
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what are you using to notch with ? i have notched quite a bit of pipe with one of these cheap notchers and standard bi metal hole saws with no problems
I have a whole set of those carbide cutters and they work amazing. The problem with my set is they are only 1/2" deep so are only really good for thinner materials.
Just a hole saw in my mill...
What on earth is that???
LOL - I was dumpster diving at Boeing Surplus many years ago when they were scrapping a plant in Kent.
This is one of their precision hole saws used for cutting holes in titanium airframes. It is 8" long and much harder than a file.
Cuts a LOVELY hole!
Question really should be - why on earth do I have that?
Amazing!LOL - I was dumpster diving at Boeing Surplus many years ago when they were scrapping a plant in Kent.
This is one of their precision hole saws used for cutting holes in titanium airframes. It is 8" long and much harder than a file.
Cuts a LOVELY hole!
Question really should be - why on earth do I have that?
You might just not have the speed and pressure dialed in, that should do a much better job than the cheap tube notcher i use with a cordless drill on the back of the truck.
some of the higher end tube notchers use a big endmill and geed the tube into the side of the endmill....although i dont imagine you want to buy an endmill that big
the other alternative is just make 2 30 dege cuts on the end of the pipe like this /\ and a quick touch up with the grinder makes a satisfactory cope for a mig
I may end up doing it freehand as I only have to make two angled copes.
Former Member
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The other way is lay it out with paper, lay it on the tube and hand grind the line.
I wish I had an 1.75” annular cutter!
Former Member
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Here's something you may want to see.
Likewise I found Garage Fab on YT. Had a great tutorial.
Rauce
Ultra Member
I’ve notched a lot of thin tubing having made a lot of bicycle frames. I use mostly Morse hole saws and they are reasonably fine pitch. I got mine from McMaster-Carr. If you can find them, the discontinued Starrett constant pitch ones are good too.
Make yourself a more rigid arbor on the lathe. Just a 3/4” bar with a 5/8”-18 thread on the end.
Heavy cutting lube and slow speeds. I mostly use saws in the 1-2” range and run them at 150-400rpm
Make yourself a more rigid arbor on the lathe. Just a 3/4” bar with a 5/8”-18 thread on the end.
Heavy cutting lube and slow speeds. I mostly use saws in the 1-2” range and run them at 150-400rpm
