-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
Fabrication DIY videos?
- Thread starter Alexander
- Start date
DPittman
Ultra Member
Well its not for a jeep but I've seen a few threads building bumpers for Xterra on thenewx.org site
If you are wanting to make a bumper as shown, that shouldn't be "too" hard. It's when you get some funky angles and bends in it that get difficult for basic homeshop resources.
I hoed and hummed about making a bumper for my rig (not a jeep) and decided that it was beyond my resources and skills to accomplish and ended up paying pretty dearly for a commercially made one. I've always admired all the choices for aftermarket accessories for jeep (unlike my xterra).
If you are wanting to make a bumper as shown, that shouldn't be "too" hard. It's when you get some funky angles and bends in it that get difficult for basic homeshop resources.
I hoed and hummed about making a bumper for my rig (not a jeep) and decided that it was beyond my resources and skills to accomplish and ended up paying pretty dearly for a commercially made one. I've always admired all the choices for aftermarket accessories for jeep (unlike my xterra).
I've only made bumpers for my 5th wheel trailers so I could support a receiver to tow a boat behind. The bumper that comes w/Rv's is useless and not structure. It typically comes down to how to attach to the frame -- advise starting there and working back..... how will it attach.
Once you do that, how would you get it off? Or is it permanent? Bolt on? Weld?
We installed one of those towable kits on a Jeep Compass so it could be towed behind a Class-A motorhome. The mounting was about 12 bolts to the frame, and the tow-links connect via tubing (round). Very slick. I like that. I'd probably look to install the bumper so you have 2 or 3 pieces of pipe mounted to the jeep, and the bumper 'slips' over those and is bolted/pinned on.
I don't have any go-to video blogs etc., only a classical 'farmer-engineering' background and lots of overbuilt, over-welded contraptions kicking around..... (but none that failed me!)
Once you do that, how would you get it off? Or is it permanent? Bolt on? Weld?
We installed one of those towable kits on a Jeep Compass so it could be towed behind a Class-A motorhome. The mounting was about 12 bolts to the frame, and the tow-links connect via tubing (round). Very slick. I like that. I'd probably look to install the bumper so you have 2 or 3 pieces of pipe mounted to the jeep, and the bumper 'slips' over those and is bolted/pinned on.
I don't have any go-to video blogs etc., only a classical 'farmer-engineering' background and lots of overbuilt, over-welded contraptions kicking around..... (but none that failed me!)
https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...articles/Fusion-360-Free-License-Changes.html[/QUOTE]
Attaching it is easy there is some brackets attached to the frame that the plastic bumper was bolted to
Attaching it is easy there is some brackets attached to the frame that the plastic bumper was bolted to
Attachments
I am going to try milling a cut out for the spare tire. I would like to cut this free hand with a plasma cutter. But I don't have one and I would imagine you need a pretty big plasma cutter for this quarter inch steel? @Janger will your Everlast cut something like this out?
Attachments
DPittman
Ultra Member
Man I dont think you could do a better job than that!
You probably know this already John, and I agree that speed is the toughest thing to control manually. But do you notice any improvement with proper drag tips? I found I get a much more consistent cut with a vented drag tip, at least on the Hypertherm. A lot of plasma cutters ship with a standard tip that isn't intended to drag. They either expect you to hover above the plate magically with a tip better suited to mechanical torches, or deal with the back dross and accept poor results. The vents on drag tips minimize the back dross, and seem to help prevent the stalling of the tip due to the dross blowing back and making the tip jump.
No where near as pretty as CNC granted, but better than cheap tips not really intended for dragging.
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
I have a plasma cutter and I am even closer then stone throw away. You don't need a lot of amps for 1/4" - my cheap Chinese unit struggles with 1/2" which it claims it should handle but stuff such as 1/4" or say 1/8" goes on smoothly. Of course not clean at all and slag etc. but works.
My main issue with plasma cutting is its susceptibility to water. You better make sure its dry or strange things happen.
My main issue with plasma cutting is its susceptibility to water. You better make sure its dry or strange things happen.
No I didn't know about that. I'm going to have to look into those tips further. Thanks Pete!
Sorry, should have taken pic with them side by side. Machine torch on left, drag tip on right. Oddly enough, a lot of plasma cutters come out of box with a variation of the one on the left. They are totally inappropriate for dragging and are meant to hover above the plate.
And to make matters worse, some bargin plasma torches are not even intended to drag—thus you may not be able to get drag tips for them. No way am I steady enough to hover at the same distance above the plate. Heck, even when I had my CNC I swear my G code shook when I wrote it
