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Deep 4x or 5x tapping in aluminium

Janger

(John)
Vendor
Premium Member
Hi gang,

I'm trying to tap deep holes in aluminium. It's a for a pallet project - picture below. I need 33 tapped holes 1/4-20 in each pallet 1.2" deep through holes. so 4x 5x deep. I've busted two taps so far. I'm pretty sure I busted the taps by trying to tap too deep and the shoulder of the tap is hitting the material.

I'm using a spiral flute tap - which pulls chips out like a drill - in theory - seems like it just packs the chips into the flutes instead. It's a Chinese HSS tap from KBC. Nothing too fancy. It's all I have on hand here. A gun tap or spiral tip tap which pushes the chips forward through and out the bottom might be better. I'm trying to tap the holes under power in a single operation, 500 RPM. It's a CNC mill so the mill has to feed and spin at the right rate according to thread pitch. The mill supports this but I don't think there is anyway to "peck" or spin/tap forward, spin back out a turn, tap forward during the cycle like you would with a hand tap. I'm using coolant as lubricant (it's 90%water, 10% coolant oil). Trying it by hand with the tap handle shown it gets pretty hard to turn about 0.8" down into the hold. The flutes end up pretty packed with chips when I spin out the tap.

It's mystery aluminium - I think it's likely 6061. No problems milling, facing, or drilling, behaves as you expect I think.

A few q's, can I expect a power tap cycle 1" in a single continuous tap cycle to work? This used to work on my manual/cnc hybrid mill without too much trouble.
Do I actually need a reduced shank tap to do this operation?
Should I be using a roll tap instead?
Is coolant inadequate and I need to brush on A9 aluminium specific coolant for each tap cycle?
Do I need expensive ie good taps? I tend to bust 1/4" taps so I'm reluctant to buy.
Do I need a floating head tap holder realistically?

J
tempImageDxkSWF.webp
 
Well "meat's back on the menu boys" as a couple friends dropped off 6 greenfield made in usa taper tip taps. I was also advised to chamfer the hole before tapping and to only bother threading to 1/2". I'll try that but it still should be possible to thread right through. Some sort of pecking (I mean tap reversal of course) would be preferable. I could write a macro to probably handle that. Coolant is also probably not adequate and A9 or similar is needed.


 
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What is your drilled hole diameter? For al I use 75% thread, so a #7 drill. Maybe go up one size since the length of thread engagement is high you might even get to 60%?

gerrit
 
I'm drilling the hole at 13/64" 0.203". Tap chart says #7 you're right at 0.201". I was guessing .203" was close enough? Perhaps not?

I've tapped now to 0.75" depth without breaking a tap. I'm using these nice greenfield USA spiral tip taps. However - the thread is super tight, I have to use a wrench to put the bolt in past about 3/8 or so. Tap says it's a H3. I put the chinese tap in by hand to clean it out - now the bolt is going in by hand but kinda sloppy.
 
A 1/4" H3 tap cuts .001 to .0015 over. The threads should not be tight. I suspect the tap is partially form tapping due to inadequate lubrication or too high a tapping speed. I would try slowing the tapping speed to 250 rpm. If that doesn't create a usable thread then switch to tapping with a tapping head in a drill press using A9 cutting fluid or something equivalent.
 
You probably checked this but just in case, are looking for the 1.2" as fully threaded & does the tap accommodate that? Depending on the profile the first couple are reduced & more importantly the upper ones may end a few down from top and/or the flutes may be filleting into the shank which is better for strength but not so good for vacating chips. Anyways aluminum can be fun as you are finding out. I had better lubrication results with that LPS cutting creme. It had a bit less chip stick but its not a miracle substance. For the most part I use WD-40 just because some of the dedicated alum fluids give me flush face after a while (I've started wearing a mask & it helps).

You probably don't want to hear thi$ but a tapping head might make sense if you do a lot of this work. A) has adjustable clutch setting so will stop rotating at your set point, potentially saving a broke tap & buggered part. You can tune teh setting to whatever makes sense B) if you are CNC-ing, you can presumably go in successive depth passes & the tapping head will find the thread no problem. Now how you will clear bogged chips from the flutes once its up out of the whole is above my pay grade, but that would be the perfect opportunity to start with a clean tap & also blow the hole out.

**oops I see John also said tapping head. That makes 2 people helping to spend your money LOL **
 

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