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CX706 owners
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
slow-poke
Ultra Member
David,
44-45" wide, best if you have space on LHS for long stock to pass through and to easily access belts and gears.
16.5" deep
17.5" tall
I'm overall happy with this lathe. It's big enough to do the hobby stuff I do without taking too much space. The power cross feed was the feature that tipped me in favour of this model vs. similar models without, after using it I would not want a lathe without.
I have done a few worthwhile upgrades, all easy:
+ upgraded tool post
+ upgraded compound mounting plate
+ ELS
+ Improved chip guard
+ Silicone mat to protect ways under spindle
+ DRO (work in progress)
I can provide details if desired.
My first machine tool was a 7" mini lathe, I would describe that as a toy, better than no lathe but just way too small to do much. I replaced that with a Emco super 8 (better but still too small) and now the CX706. If your thinking about picking one up, I would at least consider a used Standard Modern 11" If you can find one in good condition. My more experienced neighbor has the PM version of the CX706 and recently purchased a SM as an upgrade,
44-45" wide, best if you have space on LHS for long stock to pass through and to easily access belts and gears.
16.5" deep
17.5" tall
I'm overall happy with this lathe. It's big enough to do the hobby stuff I do without taking too much space. The power cross feed was the feature that tipped me in favour of this model vs. similar models without, after using it I would not want a lathe without.
I have done a few worthwhile upgrades, all easy:
+ upgraded tool post
+ upgraded compound mounting plate
+ ELS
+ Improved chip guard
+ Silicone mat to protect ways under spindle
+ DRO (work in progress)
I can provide details if desired.
My first machine tool was a 7" mini lathe, I would describe that as a toy, better than no lathe but just way too small to do much. I replaced that with a Emco super 8 (better but still too small) and now the CX706. If your thinking about picking one up, I would at least consider a used Standard Modern 11" If you can find one in good condition. My more experienced neighbor has the PM version of the CX706 and recently purchased a SM as an upgrade,
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Please tell us more about this....
Also looking forward to seeing your DRO install. I've been slowly creeping forward on a plan to install a DRO on mine myself.
DPittman
Ultra Member
I have the previous model of this lathe (cx700) and this newer model one is very similar but with improvements.
I have kept this lathe largely because of its size and the capabilities. Yes I sometimes wish I had a larger lathe, but I just don't have the room. I have this lathe on my work bench and to go bigger would require me to find floor space I don't have.
If space is a consideration, I believe the 10x22 lathe is a great option as it has much more capabilities than a mini 7x14ish lathe but it is still rather compact and small.
I have kept this lathe largely because of its size and the capabilities. Yes I sometimes wish I had a larger lathe, but I just don't have the room. I have this lathe on my work bench and to go bigger would require me to find floor space I don't have.
If space is a consideration, I believe the 10x22 lathe is a great option as it has much more capabilities than a mini 7x14ish lathe but it is still rather compact and small.
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trlvn
Ultra Member
Page 6 of the manual has a diagram that I believe is accurate:
NOTE though that you need about 5-6 inches on the right end to be able to remove the tailstock. On the left, you need space to be able to remove the cover to access the Hi-Lo belt position and change gears.
BTW, I think the tailstock lock is the worst problem on mine. The bed thickness is apparently not consistent such that it won't lock tight when the tailstock is around the middle of the bed. The tailstock gets pushed back when trying to advance a decent size drill. I think I ought to be able to correct this by remaking the eccentric shaft (part 12 on page 33 of the manual) with a slightly higher amount of eccentricity. I've noticed at least one other person report the same issue.
Another thing to be aware of is the chuck mounting system. I believe the CX706 uses a DIN 55027 spec. The spindle nose has a 7.125 degree taper. (Quinn on Blondihacks indicated that the PM1022 does NOT have the taper.) I've done a little half-hearted searching but not been able to find a compatible back plate. Thus mounting a collet chuck could be an issue.
It MAY be that the DIN 55027 spec is functionally the same spec as the D1-3 cam-lock system--just with different fasteners. If true, it would be easy enough to drill and tap for the needed studs but I haven't really checked into this. To verify, I was thinking to just buy a D1-3 backplate from some place with a liberal return policy and try it!
Another minor quibble. The front inverted V-way looks like it is 90 degrees but is not. It is about 93-94 degrees (hard to measure accurately) so it is considerably more challenging to make a micrometer stop than one would expect. The PM1022 has the same issue.
Another item is that the threading dial is kind of 'mickey mouse'. The gear isn't truly a mate for the lead screw. I think it will follow the lead screw but I haven't actually used it. I'd be interested to know if the PM1022 is better--we might be able to get a replacement part from them?
Other than that, I think the CX-706 is a pretty good value. All the major functions are easy to operate. It can produce nice parts with decent accuracy. It is about the biggest lathe I can reasonably get into my basement shop and I don't regret the purchase at all.
Fire away if you have questions.
Craig
NOTE though that you need about 5-6 inches on the right end to be able to remove the tailstock. On the left, you need space to be able to remove the cover to access the Hi-Lo belt position and change gears.
BTW, I think the tailstock lock is the worst problem on mine. The bed thickness is apparently not consistent such that it won't lock tight when the tailstock is around the middle of the bed. The tailstock gets pushed back when trying to advance a decent size drill. I think I ought to be able to correct this by remaking the eccentric shaft (part 12 on page 33 of the manual) with a slightly higher amount of eccentricity. I've noticed at least one other person report the same issue.
Another thing to be aware of is the chuck mounting system. I believe the CX706 uses a DIN 55027 spec. The spindle nose has a 7.125 degree taper. (Quinn on Blondihacks indicated that the PM1022 does NOT have the taper.) I've done a little half-hearted searching but not been able to find a compatible back plate. Thus mounting a collet chuck could be an issue.
It MAY be that the DIN 55027 spec is functionally the same spec as the D1-3 cam-lock system--just with different fasteners. If true, it would be easy enough to drill and tap for the needed studs but I haven't really checked into this. To verify, I was thinking to just buy a D1-3 backplate from some place with a liberal return policy and try it!
Another minor quibble. The front inverted V-way looks like it is 90 degrees but is not. It is about 93-94 degrees (hard to measure accurately) so it is considerably more challenging to make a micrometer stop than one would expect. The PM1022 has the same issue.
Another item is that the threading dial is kind of 'mickey mouse'. The gear isn't truly a mate for the lead screw. I think it will follow the lead screw but I haven't actually used it. I'd be interested to know if the PM1022 is better--we might be able to get a replacement part from them?
Other than that, I think the CX-706 is a pretty good value. All the major functions are easy to operate. It can produce nice parts with decent accuracy. It is about the biggest lathe I can reasonably get into my basement shop and I don't regret the purchase at all.
Fire away if you have questions.
Craig
slow-poke
Ultra Member
I mentioned my more machine capable friendly neighbour, he donated the blue silicone mat material. At the headstock end I attached with a couple of M3 screws, for the carriage end I used a few neodymium magnets press fitted into an aluminum flat, so in the rare occurrence when I need to move the carriage way towards the tailstock it simple pops off. The mat is thin enough that it nicely folds under the chuck when the carriage is close.
Nice! I like it! Well done!
I don't want to drill any holes in my headstock so magnets might happen there too!
slow-poke
Ultra Member
In retrospect that would be wise, it would be convenient to be able to simply lift, remove and dump when cleaning up. Future project # 10,874
In a very real way, that's what I like about my shop rag approach. What I don't like is how it gets all tangled up in the swarf. A piece of silicon would be better.
That’s about half the footprint of my South Bend. Most significant is the shallow depth which is key in a narrow space such as I have.
@YotaBota’s SM is a real beauty for sure. Tough to locate though.
Former Member
Guest
Way covers are a love hate affair. Working with materials that don't produce long stringy (strong) scarf they are great. Anything else is a IMHO are dangerous. I've never had it happen but one thing I was taught anything loose (clothing, rags, way guards/covers) around spinning rotating equipment are a snag hazard that can cause injury extremely quickly.
So way covers, personal safety choice, keeps my ways clean or learn first aid, both are great skills.
I considered just leaving your comments alone Degen, but it's an issue worthy of a good healthy debate. Who knows, you might even change my mind.
I cannot see how a rag or a piece of silicon or whatever makes long stringy swarf any more or less dangerous. Long swarf is dangerous. Period.
I tend to try to keep the swarf down by cleaning it up between passes. Sometimes, I'll pull it out while I'm working using a pair of long reach needle nose pliers. But usually, I kill the lathe, drag out the swarf, then drag out the rag and dump it. Then prep for my next pass with fresh cutting fluid, a clean cutting tool, and clean ways.
But even for those who don't clean between passes, that damn stringy swarf is dangerous - with or without rag/cover/or none. I'd love to hear how others control it.
It's easy to jump to the conclusion that stringy swarf catches more swarf, catches a rag, catches your arm, etc etc. A long litany of ugly stuff happening in procession. But, the minute that swarf catches, ugly has already happened and it's time to hit the EStop. I don't think adding a rag or cover to it is any less deadly.
Now, if that rag just so happens to be your sleeve, or your jacket, or your hair, well...... that's an issue! But I don't see a way cover making that any worse.
I'd love to hear what others think. Maybe I should change. Maybe what I'm doing is fine.
DPittman
Ultra Member
On my little 10x22 lathe I use a short homemade way cover that's attached to the carriage. There is not much room between the chuck and ways so swarf build up happens easily and quickly. The way cover makes this all happen a bit more quickly as nothing falls between the ways. However I keep the cover on as it makes clean up easier and keeps sanding dust from landing on the ways.
Former Member
Guest
Recently I saw someone that has worked on lathes most of their life get caught with scarf despite using all precautions resulting in serious stitches in the hand. I believe she was removing it with long needle nose pliers.
As to way covers for use with grinding I agree this is a good idea. But understand anything caught by a lathe chuck can cause damage to you or the lathe by bending something if it catches, if it breaks consider it can behave like a sling shot that fires in random directions.
Sometimes a seemingly good idea, can have some unexpected side effects.
I've been lucky so far with some of these things, but the last thing I want to rely on is luck for my safety.
As to way covers for use with grinding I agree this is a good idea. But understand anything caught by a lathe chuck can cause damage to you or the lathe by bending something if it catches, if it breaks consider it can behave like a sling shot that fires in random directions.
Sometimes a seemingly good idea, can have some unexpected side effects.
I've been lucky so far with some of these things, but the last thing I want to rely on is luck for my safety.
Former Member
Guest
To add a little more thread drift, good carbide Lathe inserts for specific applications have chip breakers designed into them, in most cases if they are not doing the job, increase or decrease feed rate and the chips break. In some cases increase depth of cut achieves the same result (if the lathe can handle it).
@trlvn or @slow-poke hoping you can confirm that the CX706 leadscrews (carriage, cross-slide and compound) are imperial and that it's possible to add a quick change toolpost.
Thanks!
Thanks!
trlvn
Ultra Member
I confirm that each of the leadscrews are inch-based imperial pitch. (The diameter of said screws may be metric which could be a future problem if replacements are needed.)
I had to make some non-reversible modifications to the compound to mount a wedge-type quick change tool post. A piston-type QCTP might be able to be mounted with modifications to the toolpost rather than the machine. How I did it:
Craig's Craftex CX706 Comes Clean
Chips, we have chips! I finally got lathe pretty well cleaned up and lubricated, bolted to the bench and it was time to have at it. The first thing I want to do is get the quick change tool post mounted. I need a bigger, longer bolt for that so I decided to start with 5 inch 9/16-18. The...
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
Craig
Thanks Craig!I confirm that each of the leadscrews are inch-based imperial pitch. (The diameter of said screws may be metric which could be a future problem if replacements are needed.)
I had to make some non-reversible modifications to the compound to mount a wedge-type quick change tool post. A piston-type QCTP might be able to be mounted with modifications to the toolpost rather than the machine. How I did it:
Craig's Craftex CX706 Comes Clean
Chips, we have chips! I finally got lathe pretty well cleaned up and lubricated, bolted to the bench and it was time to have at it. The first thing I want to do is get the quick change tool post mounted. I need a bigger, longer bolt for that so I decided to start with 5 inch 9/16-18. The...
Craig
