Compressor is Toast

[thestelster]

Well, after 25 years of service, she's gone. It started last week when air continously leaked out the pressure switch valve. So I replaced the pressure switch. But after it filled up to the upper limit tank pressure, the air still leaked out. Going on-line it was suggested that the check valve was the culprit. So I removed it, and found a tiny piece of metal stuck inside. Where the heck did that come from??

I cleaned it up, reinstalled everything and started it up. And at around 150psi tank pressure, everything started to shake. I threw the safety switch. Air was coming out the oil filler tube, the pump seemed like it was starting to seize. That tiny metal piece in the check valve was probably a piece of piston ring.

An aftermarket pump is about $1,000.00, so me thinks its time for a new air compressor.

I'm looking at the Ingersol Rand SS5L5: Single stage, 18.1cfm@90psi; 5hp 230 sinhle phase. $2,350.00 at Princess Auto. I better start making money quick! I've been without compressed air for a week and I don't like it!

Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 Single Stage Air Compressor

ingersollrandcompressedair.com

 

[Tom Kitta]

Get a new pump on auction. They usually go for less than $50. Heck I have a spare one in my shed right now.

Or get like new compressor on auction - like new 5hp two stage are around 500 - 800 range or so. Brand names.

 

[DavidR8]

I have not read a single good thing about the new I-R pumps.

 

[thestelster]

Get a new pump on auction. They usually go for less than $50. Heck I have a spare one in my shed right now.

Or get like new compressor on auction - like new 5hp two stage are around 500 - 800 range or so. Brand names.

Thanks Tom, yeah, I'll look around for good condition used compressor.

 

[thestelster]

I have not read a single good thing about the new I-R pumps.

On the IR site, they offer 2 different pumps, one is cast iron, the other... is not? The cast iron version is about $100.00 more.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Well, after 25 years of service, she's gone. It started last week when air continously leaked out the pressure switch valve. So I replaced the pressure switch. But after it filled up to the upper limit tank pressure, the air still leaked out. Going on-line it was suggested that the check valve was the culprit. So I removed it, and found a tiny piece of metal stuck inside. Where the heck did that come from??

I cleaned it up, reinstalled everything and started it up. And at around 150psi tank pressure, everything started to shake. I threw the safety switch. Air was coming out the oil filler tube, the pump seemed like it was starting to seize. That tiny metal piece in the check valve was probably a piece of piston ring.

An aftermarket pump is about $1,000.00, so me thinks its time for a new air compressor.

I'm looking at the Ingersol Rand SS5L5: Single stage, 18.1cfm@90psi; 5hp 230 sinhle phase. $2,350.00 at Princess Auto. I better start making money quick! I've been without compressed air for a week and I don't like it!

Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 Single Stage Air Compressor

ingersollrandcompressedair.com

I have one of those. Happy with it.

Edit... Just looked up the part #. This is what I have. the SS3660V

Ingersoll Rand 3 HP 60 Gallon Air Compressor

Designed for the professional, IR 3 HP single stage compressors are ideal for almost anyone, from individuals that thrive on do-it-yourself projects to the professional air compressor user. When performance is defined by maximum operating pressure, incr

www.kmstools.com

Back then I got it for $1049.95 and I think it was not KMS but still House of Tools.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Odd.
The price tag lists a different number. SS3L3 but googling Ingersol Rand SS3660V brought up the above link.

 

[Susquatch]

On the IR site, they offer 2 different pumps, one is cast iron, the other... is not? The cast iron version is about $100.00 more.

This is typical of many different products that have both industrial and small shop engines, compressors, and pumps. The cheaper versions are usually aluminium with Chrome plated cylinder walls. Once the Chrome is gone, the future is already told.

I suppose I might buy the odd chrome/aluminium unit for very low usage. But for a difference of just $100, I'd be getting the cast iron version no matter what.

Consider checking the date on the tank before deciding on a new compressor.

 

[DavidR8]

This is typical of many different products that have both industrial and small shop engines, compressors, and pumps. The cheaper versions are usually aluminium with Chrome plated cylinder walls. Once the Chrome is gone, the future is already told.

I suppose I might buy the odd chrome/aluminium unit for very low usage. But for a difference of just $100, I'd be getting the cast iron version no matter what.

Consider checking the date on the tank before deciding on a new compressor.

Definitely do a hydrotest!

 

[Chicken lights]

Thanks Tom, yeah, I'll look around for good condition used compressor.

Give Franks Compressors in Floradale a call, I’ll be near Newmarket Saturday, I could at least get something that far.

 

[Ironman]

Have you thought of a tear down of your pump? I have a Quincy 325 that dates to 1932 so some bitty parts like aluminum gaskets for the valve lifter bodies are NA. I had your problem of a chunk in the check valve, so I tore down the compressor head and found a blown head gasket. Further disassembly found the aluminum gasket ring on the intermediate exhaust valve missing and the seat tapered from the valve hopping up and down. I put the head in the mill and re-machined the gasket surface and put the valve body in the lathe and squared the surface on that also. I bought a sheet of exhaust manifold gasket material for 22 bucks from NAPA, and made a new head gasket and a flat ring gasket for the valve. This stuff has metal in the middle so need a good scissors for this.
It pumps air like new.

 

[thestelster]

Have you thought of a tear down of your pump? I have a Quincy 325 that dates to 1932 so some bitty parts like aluminum gaskets for the valve lifter bodies are NA. I had your problem of a chunk in the check valve, so I tore down the compressor head and found a blown head gasket. Further disassembly found the aluminum gasket ring on the intermediate exhaust valve missing and the seat tapered from the valve hopping up and down. I put the head in the mill and re-machined the gasket surface and put the valve body in the lathe and squared the surface on that also. I bought a sheet of exhaust manifold gasket material for 22 bucks from NAPA, and made a new head gasket and a flat ring gasket for the valve. This stuff has metal in the middle so need a good scissors for this.
It pumps air like new.

Hi @Ironman (I'm an Ironman too, triathlons though).

Thank you. I'm sizing up my options. I just contacted Frank's Compressors, so I'll see what they say.

 

[Dan Dubeau]

If you're going to Floradale go visit Thak Ironworks and try and get a shop tour. Cool place, with a pretty talented staff and lots of cool things to see and play with upstairs.

 

[thestelster]

Well, I finally decided to get a new pump, 5Hp, 2-stage, 175psi max, 23.0 cfm. Made in Italy....I think in the Ferrari plant Replaced the check valve too. Had to switch over the motor pulley to get the proper pump speed, and drill new holes for the pump footprint, and a new belt. Some new fittings and copper pipe (which was a PITA to get the bends right...well, good enough to work.) Put oil in and started it up.

Success! I adjusted the air pressure to 150psi, and it holds pressure...no leaks!

So this closes this chapter.

 

[Ironman]

It looks good. Good to have air again, I bet. When mine was down it crippled so much of what I did.
Is the head cast iron?

 

[thestelster]

It looks good. Good to have air again, I bet. When mine was down it crippled so much of what I did.
Is the head cast iron?

It's funny how dependent you can get with compressed air!!

The black section, cylinder, is cast iron, the rest is aluminium. I wish it was all steel, but it is what it is.