I recently swapped out my older Makita 14" Abrasive cut saw for a Makita Cold Cut Saw Model LM-1230. I wasn't really intending on doing this right now. I kept thinking if my abrasive saws ever fails, I'll replace with a cold cut. That was years ago...but the abrasive just kept going. Turns out it was really well built and designed, and to be honest I love the smell and the sparks that come off it. That's bad in a shop my size I know. Even though I've removed almost everything flammable I can, sparks still shoot toward some shelves that have cardboard boxes on them (need to fix that).
Anyways, I waited a few weeks until I had used the new one a bit to post some things I've learned.
At first I was worried that the 12" capacity on the saw might limit me compared to the 14" abrasive. That turned out to be a non-issue. Largely I suspect this is because when I first bought the saw I only owned a small horizontal bandsaw. Since then I've upgraded to a larger model, which I use to cut a lot of large tubing. So what I used to use the abrasive saw for I no longer need. However, because the bandsaw is so much larger, I'm more reluctant to pull it out for smaller cuts—hence the cold cut saw.
The next thing I learned is that while there are next to no sparks, they can be noisier. Seems counterintuitive (and maybe it is blade dependent), but sometimes mid way through a cut it screeches horribly for a moment. Not a huge problem, but until you get used to it, you can get thrown off. I know some people recommend a paste lube on the blade, but I haven't tried that yet.
The cuts are very clean on the new saw, although not as square as I expected. However, they are weld-ready immediately—whereas the abrasive always needs some minor cleanup on the sander. In the fabrication world this is a good compromise. Any weld gap from a cold cut is easily bridged through the welding process, and the time saved on each cut on sanding makes it worthwhile. I think this is the main attraction of cold cut saws for those of us who were never bothered by the sparks, dust or noise of abrasives.
Something else to get used to is the shavings. Abrasives make dust. Cold cuts make miniature knife blades that can be weaponized. They throw (relatively cool) little metal shavings that go everywhere. You'll track them into your house. You definitely do not want to let your dog(s) in the shop when using this type of saw. With an abrasive I'd just let the dust fall and sweep it up later. But these shavings need to get picked up immediately or they will find themselves in your boots, carpet, pant cuffs, etc. There is a small collection drawer on the back of the saw for this, but it only collects about 50% I'd say. To combat this problem I built a tray underneath that slides in and out. It was a bit of a head scratcher because it needed to mount on a moveable plasma cutting rack that slides under my welding table. But I managed to design some moveable brackets that don't interfere with the table at all. The saw sits on top of the plasma rack and is bolted there most of the time.
Because it is a small shop with limited space I had to mount it in such a way that my slip roll acts as an in-feed table and the out-feed path goes between some machines already bolted to the welding table. The measurements of the Makita worked best for this. The Dewalt, which is in fact 14" and has a bigger motor, wouldn't have worked because of its measurements. Additionally, there are multiple complaints from some guys that the larger motor consistently trips 15A breakers. Re-wiring for 20A was a no go. I have no complaints with the Mikata's power; I've cut 3x3 angle 1/4" thick with no problem. The Makita is for steel and stainless only; the Dewalt can be used on AL. I suspect this is just a blade issue as the design and rake differs slightly on the two blades. But if you want to cut AL, do some research first.
All in all, I'd say the new saw is a 8 or 9 out of 10 and I am pretty happy. It's so much faster than abrasives, there is no finishing required for fabricators, the cut is cool to the touch, and of course there are almost no sparks.
Anyways, I waited a few weeks until I had used the new one a bit to post some things I've learned.
At first I was worried that the 12" capacity on the saw might limit me compared to the 14" abrasive. That turned out to be a non-issue. Largely I suspect this is because when I first bought the saw I only owned a small horizontal bandsaw. Since then I've upgraded to a larger model, which I use to cut a lot of large tubing. So what I used to use the abrasive saw for I no longer need. However, because the bandsaw is so much larger, I'm more reluctant to pull it out for smaller cuts—hence the cold cut saw.
The next thing I learned is that while there are next to no sparks, they can be noisier. Seems counterintuitive (and maybe it is blade dependent), but sometimes mid way through a cut it screeches horribly for a moment. Not a huge problem, but until you get used to it, you can get thrown off. I know some people recommend a paste lube on the blade, but I haven't tried that yet.
The cuts are very clean on the new saw, although not as square as I expected. However, they are weld-ready immediately—whereas the abrasive always needs some minor cleanup on the sander. In the fabrication world this is a good compromise. Any weld gap from a cold cut is easily bridged through the welding process, and the time saved on each cut on sanding makes it worthwhile. I think this is the main attraction of cold cut saws for those of us who were never bothered by the sparks, dust or noise of abrasives.
Something else to get used to is the shavings. Abrasives make dust. Cold cuts make miniature knife blades that can be weaponized. They throw (relatively cool) little metal shavings that go everywhere. You'll track them into your house. You definitely do not want to let your dog(s) in the shop when using this type of saw. With an abrasive I'd just let the dust fall and sweep it up later. But these shavings need to get picked up immediately or they will find themselves in your boots, carpet, pant cuffs, etc. There is a small collection drawer on the back of the saw for this, but it only collects about 50% I'd say. To combat this problem I built a tray underneath that slides in and out. It was a bit of a head scratcher because it needed to mount on a moveable plasma cutting rack that slides under my welding table. But I managed to design some moveable brackets that don't interfere with the table at all. The saw sits on top of the plasma rack and is bolted there most of the time.
Because it is a small shop with limited space I had to mount it in such a way that my slip roll acts as an in-feed table and the out-feed path goes between some machines already bolted to the welding table. The measurements of the Makita worked best for this. The Dewalt, which is in fact 14" and has a bigger motor, wouldn't have worked because of its measurements. Additionally, there are multiple complaints from some guys that the larger motor consistently trips 15A breakers. Re-wiring for 20A was a no go. I have no complaints with the Mikata's power; I've cut 3x3 angle 1/4" thick with no problem. The Makita is for steel and stainless only; the Dewalt can be used on AL. I suspect this is just a blade issue as the design and rake differs slightly on the two blades. But if you want to cut AL, do some research first.
All in all, I'd say the new saw is a 8 or 9 out of 10 and I am pretty happy. It's so much faster than abrasives, there is no finishing required for fabricators, the cut is cool to the touch, and of course there are almost no sparks.
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