• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

CNC plasma cutter build

Thanks @ShawnR I'm still rather amazed that it worked to be totally honest.

At my non-skill level I'm not inclined to write the g-code directly. I suppose if it was something simple like a square it could be done. But add in radius corners etc and it would quickly become too complicated for me. Adding code to stop and start the torch or add a pause is easy to do.
My workflow now is to draw and do the CAM in Fusion360. That gives me a g-code file which I then load into the controller software. I was using UGS (Universal GCode Sender) but I've since found the OpenBuilds control software which is much easier to use. The demo last night was a simple 5" square that I quickly did in F360, did the CAM setup, exported the G-code which I opened with the OpenBuild control software.
 
How many lines of G-Code did your simple 5" square generate?
This is the code. The first five lines are autogenerated by F360.
%
(1001)
(Machine)
( vendor: Autodesk)
( description: Generic Cutting Machine)
G90 G94
G17
G21

(2D Profile1)
G54
G0 S255 M4
G0 X-4.952 Y132.84
G1 X-4 Y131.191 F1000
G2 X-3.809 Y131 Z0 I0 J-0.191
G1 Y4
G2 X-4 Y3.809 I-0.191 J0
G1 X-131
G2 X-131.191 Y4 I0 J0.191
G1 Y131
G2 X-131 Y131.191 I0.191 J0
G1 X-4
G1 X-3.047 Y132.84
G1 S0
M30
%
 
This is the code. The first five lines are autogenerated by F360.
%
(1001)
(Machine)
( vendor: Autodesk)
( description: Generic Cutting Machine)
G90 G94
G17
G21

(2D Profile1)
G54
G0 S255 M4
G0 X-4.952 Y132.84
G1 X-4 Y131.191 F1000
G2 X-3.809 Y131 Z0 I0 J-0.191
G1 Y4
G2 X-4 Y3.809 I-0.191 J0
G1 X-131
G2 X-131.191 Y4 I0 J0.191
G1 Y131
G2 X-131 Y131.191 I0.191 J0
G1 X-4
G1 X-3.047 Y132.84
G1 S0
M30
%

That's not bad. I thought it would be a lot more.
 
For simple shapes it's straightforward. For shapes with lots of features there can be hundreds if not thousands of lines.
 
That seems to work quite well, I was thinking that the torch holder might expand during use maybe you could slit it and use a pinch bolt to snug it up.
 
That seems to work quite well, I was thinking that the torch holder might expand during use maybe you could slit it and use a pinch bolt to snug it up.
Indeed. Originally I was going to cut it in half vertically to allow for a machine style torch but since I don't have one (yet) I left well enough alone.
 
I bought one probably 16 years ago with a 25 foot lead I haven’t used it yet if I remember right it was pricey and last year I came across the manualy adjusted torch holder.
 
I bought one probably 16 years ago with a 25 foot lead I haven’t used it yet if I remember right it was pricey and last year I came across the manualy adjusted torch holder.
I have done some searching for a machine torch but not having much luck because this I have a blowback start machine.
 
Major progress today.
Built the removable table. Used 1” square tube for the receivers under the table.
3/4” square table arms with 1” cross members.
4b809ebb9a5c88bfc235a6f334c0c20b.jpg

054d850f62baa1b7f3b0522021e2cdcd.jpg

Made a water tray out of 22ga sheet metal. Folded and MIG welded the corners. It’s watertight shocking no one more than me.
b540e83e6d66230603ec8f40af833eaf.jpg

9dfe82b16aafb4d7b11607d5d232775c.jpg
 
Thanks @ShawnR and @Tom O
Lots of progress today.
Built the electronics enclosure.
Thought about buying a readymade enclosure but I couldn’t find one with the right dimensions.
So went into my lumber pile found some sanded 1/2” plywood.
Used a piece of 1/8” aluminum sheet to mount all the bits and cut another piece to make a panel to mount the aircraft connectors and 24v power supply.
Once I get all the wiring done I’ll paint it.
Black of course because the magic happens inside the black box :D
d22ffb2bc8037800b4ecb92a85e5b1d7.jpg

a8b573f68c10b4899373b474cc5f9500.jpg

e0dc9330837f03af9d0b703f85394557.jpg

cfd49a0adf800b221506aa2256cc3bbf.jpg

Left to right is power supply, X, Y axis and torch control. Still need to do the internal wiring and then make the wiring to go from the box to the motors and torch.
And I sorted out the v-wheel tension screws.
fd136b3e5939e4ff223bc1cea67f61ea.jpg
 
Last edited:
Almost like you knew what you are doing ;)

Do you think a lock nut will be needed to keep the tensioning nut from backing off?

Yes, I think so. There’s enough room for them.
The top ones are a bit of a different story as the hole is further outboard of the nut.
13ebeed185e2b5213f50ad65060b5f33.jpg

I’m not really keen on rebending the tabs or cutting them off and replacing them.
I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.
 
Almost like you knew what you are doing ;)

Do you think a lock nut will be needed to keep the tensioning nut from backing off?

Yes, I think so. There’s enough room for them.
The top ones are a bit of a different story as the hole is further outboard of the nut.
13ebeed185e2b5213f50ad65060b5f33.jpg

I’m not really keen on rebending the tabs or cutting them off and replacing them.
I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.
 
I may TIG up the holes and redrill them closer in.
If you redrill is there room for a longer bolt and have the lock nut on the outside of the tab using the end of the bolt to tension the v-wheel. This would mean one bolt and one nut, saves on hardware.
 
Back
Top