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Cast thumbscrew permanent mold

Dan Dubeau

Ultra Member
Here's a project I've been thinking about for a while, and finally got around to "completing". When casting, it's always bothered me wasting the last of a pour on ingots, seems like a waste of energy when I could be making other small frequently used objects. So I came up with a short list of small volume things that should be easily castable in a simple dump mold. I made the mold body a few weeks ago, and finally got around to cutting the cavity last weekend. This morning I turned the threaded inserts. A typical timline of projects I work on.....I made 1/4", 5/16, and 3/8" unc inserts, and once I prove that it works, will make some metric ones as needed. They are 3/4" od O1 drill rod scraps, and ride in a 0.751" dia reamed hole in the mold.
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You can vary the shoulder length of of the thumbscrew simple by moving the inserts up and down in the mold and locking it down with the screw from the side.
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While I made the inserts I flipped the little foundry on to melt down some scrap.
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Once those were done, I leveled the mold in my sand box, and poured the heat to it with a torch for a good while to burn off the condensation and preheat it for pouring. When the crucible came up to temp, I scraped the dross, and gave it a dump.
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It filled too quick and I was 100% sure that the "sprue" (all 1/2"x1/2" of it) froze up and sealed off the cavity instantly. I poured off the rest in the sand (charged the crucible with more than I thought....) and tossed the mold into the snowbank out front.
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Once cooled down, I took it back inside, and started undoing the mold and was pleasantly surprised by the percent of fill I actually got considering I thought it was a bust, but disappointed at the same time. I have some ideas....
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I was happy with the ease at which the halves separated. The threaded insert simply unscrews. There is no draft on the shoulder bore, I'm simply relying on shrinkage to release the part.
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The extra on the topside can be easily cold chiseled off flush with the top showing the mighty sprue in all it's glory.
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I cut that off with a hacksaw, and chucked it in the lathe for a quick face and while not pretty, it's a "thumb screw". Not a nice one, but useable for a shop made jig or fixture.
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Yes it's not perfect, and no matter what I do I'll probably have shrink dimples simply due to the fact I don't have a big riser to feed the cavity as it cools. I'm going to open up the sprue to as big as I can, and I think that should help fill the entire cavity better. The top is "flat" and I have to face off the head anyway, so it doesn't really matter having to face off a larger dia sprue. That might also help feed the casting as it cools too. I'll play around with it a bit more, but I consider it an 80% success at this point, especially for a first pour, and think I can nudge that # closer to mid 90's.

I didn't set out to make saleable thumbscrews to put carrlane out of business. Just looking for a way to use my melts a bit more efficiently and end up with something useful instead of dumping off ingots after pouring a mold. I have a few more ideas for other dump molds too, and now that I know it's viable will chip away at them in my "free time" :D.

I'll continue to post my experiments with this mold, and others. I have some thumbscrews to cast for a belt grinder build coming up, so I'll post those too. Might be a few more weeks though....
 
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I believe as a metal mold you need heat in it as it acts as a heat sink which causes these issues.
Yes, a cold mold will chill the metal before it has a chance to fill. I had the torch on it for a long time (10 minutes or so), and right up until I poured. Not ruling out that it was still too cold, but I think a bigger sprue won't hurt anything. If it still short pours I'll bust out the weed burner torch to preheat it next time, or toss it in the forge lol. I don't think I'll have to go that far. I think a bigger hole to dump into will solve most of the issues. Might head back out after dinner to play around with it again.
 
I think I would consider making a couple of passages for venting on the face of it. Can the mold be preheated just sitting on top of the furnace?
 
Yes, a cold mold will chill the metal before it has a chance to fill. I had the torch on it for a long time (10 minutes or so), and right up until I poured. Not ruling out that it was still too cold, but I think a bigger sprue won't hurt anything. If it still short pours I'll bust out the weed burner torch to preheat it next time, or toss it in the forge lol. I don't think I'll have to go that far. I think a bigger hole to dump into will solve most of the issues. Might head back out after dinner to play around with it again.
I wonder if you had vents on the 4 sides to allow the gas to escape would help? You may flash there, but it would be easily cleaned up.
 
I think I would consider making a couple of passages for venting on the face of it. Can the mold be preheated just sitting on top of the furnace?
Lack of venting may have contributed to the short fill on this pour, as the 1/2" hole is a bit too small to get metal in, and air out in in that short of time. I thought it would be pretty self venting at first but looking again at the cad model I can see how some air could get trapped in the lobes as the others fill. I think if I open the sprue up to the max ~17mmdia, and ad some venting channels from the outer tips of the star shaped top It would probably eliminate all the problems.
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It'll all get faced off anyway, so it doesn't really matter how big I make that vent area as long as I don't get bigger than the top flat shown in magenta. More material to draw from as it chills too. I'll probably do that.
 
I wonder if you had vents on the 4 sides to allow the gas to escape would help? You may flash there, but it would be easily cleaned up.
If I was injecting I'd agree, but I don't think a gravity pour of this cavity with an open top would need vents out the side. See my post above, I think that should solve all my venting needs, but I'm not opposed to venting the sides if that fails to produce results.
 
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New top and sprue design. I think that should do the job, and be a quick and easy fix. Max dia sprue, and nowhere left for the air to go but up. I'll play with the shape a bit more so I can cut it all with a 1/8" ball.
 
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New top and sprue design. I think that should do the job, and be a quick and easy fix. Max dia sprue, and nowhere left for the air to go but up. I'll play with the shape a bit more so I can cut it all with a 1/8" ball.
I am following this because foundry is on my to-do list... but a long ways down..
 
One option might be to create a “two” screw model, with a gate feeding the second one from the first one and the spruce on #2 acting as your riser.

The second mold could be anything really.

I think without a riser this will always be problematic .

Lastly , the gingery books recommended using a candle or lighter to blacken the steel mating parts with soot as a natural release agent

I really like what you’ve done here, got my brain going on some possibilities
 
I am following this because foundry is on my to-do list... but a long ways down..
I think with your modeling skills and CNC capabilities it will open up a whole new world of posibilities for you. Especially with the scanner and 3d printer too. A small foundry like mine is about $300 now. A bigger one would be more useful, and is on my list of builds too, but this little guy has proved more than handy in the meantime. Pretty cool being able to take ideas like this from spark to completion from the comfort of your home without having to step outside.
 
They are all over Amazon you could probably use graphite as a coating but the blackening is more for things like threads or hinges type of thing.
 
One option might be to create a “two” screw model, with a gate feeding the second one from the first one and the spruce on #2 acting as your riser.

The second mold could be anything really.

I think without a riser this will always be problematic .

Lastly , the gingery books recommended using a candle or lighter to blacken the steel mating parts with soot as a natural release agent

I really like what you’ve done here, got my brain going on some possibilities
The original design I came up with had a 2 piece runner/riser system that fed the interchangeable cavities upside down. Risers, runners, all take volume to fill, and at the end of a pour there's not always enough left to fill them. The goal for this one, a bit of an experiment, was a simple low volume dump mold for usable products around the shop instead of pouring off ingots with leftover. Honestly with a few of the products I sand cast semi regularly I might not even have enough volume left to fill this one.

this is the model I have
https://www.amazon.ca/TOAUTO-Automatic-Graphite-Crucible-Aluminum/dp/B0814HF9DV/ref=sr_1_14?crid=6WM08GHFYG63&keywords=3kg+foundry&qid=1679271063&sprefix=3kg+foundry,aps,481&sr=8-14&th=1

Price seems to fluctuate a bit, and Vevor has what looks the be the same for cheaper. Buy some extra crucibles with it too, they are a consumable.
 
I hope to be able to cast iron someday. A big foundry build just isn't high enough up the list yet. But it's on it. This little one can do copper/brass/bronze, but so far I haven't had a need yet. I saved and stripped all the copper wire and pipes from our basement reno, so I have a tote full of scrap to melt whenever I get to it.

Spring may officially be here today, but it hasn't sprung in my neck of the woods yet. It can hurry up though. As much as I enjoy winter, I'm done with this one lol.
 
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Opened up the sprue to 17mm, added vent channels from the top of the cavity, and added some 0.003"x0.337 (regrind) deep vents out the side. I didn't think they were 100% needed at first, but trying to visualize how this cavity fills again I can see how there could still be some trapped air in the lobes that need out, so I added them anyway. Won't hurt as I'm not worried about flash with these being gravity cast. Not enough pressure to really "flash" but there will be a witness. Might no be big enough, but I can always go bigger. They'd be HUGE in injection molds.
 
Don't you just love when solving one problem creates another...

First impressions out of the mold. Success!. Every lobe filled perfect, no flash or witness from the parting line vents. This one is a 1/4" this time instead of 5/16"
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Shot of the top showing the new vent channels, and bigger sprue. They all seem to have done their job.
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Parted off the extra, then faced it.
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DAMMIT!

There was a bit of porosity in the center of the first one too, but not this bad.

Couple ideas. I may have not got the mold up to the same temp as the last pour, so it may have chilled a bit too quick (I should measure it...). I also may have poured too quick, as I was a bit herky jerky with this one, not my best pour.....and lastly and the most likely. That is a large center section with no riser to feed it as it cools, so this might be a harder problem to solve. The still molten center is going to open up in the middle to feed the outside as it cools. If I had a large riser with the same cross section the center would stay liquid long enough to feed this as it cools and I wouldn't have this problem (or it would greatly reduce it). Not sure how I'd solve that for this mold, as I doubt I'd have the volume left at the end of a pour to fill a riser large enough. Counter to that thought If I reduced the sprue height I might beable to force that bubble down below the facing surface enough that it wont break out. Theres no backing up from that modification though, so I might pour a few more to get some more data before making chips. I also might turn a small pipe extension to pour into that might create enough of a feeder to mitigate the problem, that ones easier to try.

I also drilled through the backside of the threaded inserts so I can wind in the shank of bolts too. Seems that would be handy for some.

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It may not be pretty, but these will still come in handy on shop built machines, and for my lure molds. Won't take long during casting runs to build up a decent stockpile of them too. I'll chip away at improving the process, but I'm not going to do anymore dedicated melts for these. It'll have to wait for the next casting session. I'll post up when I do.

This has been a fun little idea to bring into the world. It's given me even more ideas too.
 
Picking away at this thing on my desk today, and exposing more of the crater I'm now pretty sure, about 98% that it was simply a bubble that got caught on the bolt head, that wasn't able to get out before the sprue froze up. It's tough to draw big conclusions from such a small sample size, but I'm curious to cast a few more to get a better idea before I draw too many conclusions. I'm going to have a steel rod handy when I cast the next one to poke down into the sprue right after pouring to hopefully pop any bubble that might exist.
 
I think I’d try more of a preheat on the mold maybe put it in a toaster over then hit it with a torch.
 
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