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Canadian Sources for Hobbyist Quantities of Oil

I've been running around in circles on this and I want to put it to bed so I can get to using my new lathe! I bought a CX706 from Busy Bee and the manual states to use a 20W machine oil for everything except the gearbox, and Mobilgear 627 in the gearboxes (apparently this is now called Mobilgear 600XP 100). Weird that they don't sell the oils considering how much of it they would probably sell.

So from everything I've learned about oils what I understand is that I shouldn't use motor oils in the gearbox, even if they're non-detergent... i've also learned that way oil is designed to be a bit sticky so that it doesn't drip off the surfaces it's supposed to be on. I also learned that 20W is equal to SAE20 or ISO68, and the Mobilgear is SAE30/ISO100, in terms of viscosities. McMaster Carr only has 6-packs of the jugs of equivalent/ideal products. I've read from some people that Anti-Wear Hydraulic Oil (like this one) should be good in the gearbox, but I also don't want to void my warranty. I certainly prefer to get a product at a retail outlet if I can, so that I have a reliable way to get more when I need it. I checked the Precision Matthews (same machine) manual and it lists 75W-80 as a gearbox oil, and the Weiss manual (also same machine) lists Mobil DTE Heavy Medium (an ISO 68 hydraulic oil) for the gearboxes.

In case you can't tell I'm brand new to all of this stuff, so any insight would be appreciated!
 
For way oil I used this one from kbc been very happy with it so far, no way I was going to use 5 gallons.


For gear oil i have been using a 75W-80 from CT, and I have heard others using the hydraulic oil with success as well I think regular changes are maybe more important than having any one exact type.
 
The two local machine shops to me one runs grade 46 hydraulic oil and the other 68 hydraulic oil
for oiling. I would not recommend 75-90 in the gear boxes or apron its EP or GX which is extreme
pressure although it would work. The gears in a lathe would be considered lightly loaded.
Eaton/Spicer/Fuller recommended 50 WT motor oil in their highway truck transmissions for a lot of
years with good results. That is what I would use if I were to change oil in my lathe.
I have been using grade 46 hydraulic oil to lube my machines for years with good results and I use
powersaw chain oil on the open gears on the headstock. Chain oil has a sticky additive and has
amazing staying power.
 
For way oil I used this one from kbc been very happy with it so far, no way I was going to use 5 gallons.


For gear oil i have been using a 75W-80 from CT, and I have heard others using the hydraulic oil with success as well I think regular changes are maybe more important than having any one exact type.
I found that one as well - it's on my short list as it's a good price, the right weight... I just wish it was 1L instead of 1gallon, haha!
I searched high and low to see if I could just use their spindle oil for the gears but it seems like I can't, otherwise they would have been the perfect solution for everything!
 
Shop oils....here's what I do

Gearboxes and such: Canadian tire. ISO 68 hydraulic oil. Hydraulic oil is just very clean mineral oil, no detergents, and is ideal for machine tools.
Way oil, I bought the 5 gallon pail. Working hard to use it up....can't have too much oil on the ways.
Spindle oil, hydraulic oil is fine but you can't get the light weights so I splurge on Velocite (which you can from amazon).
Cutting oil, the occasional gallon from KBC
Soluble Oil Trim Microsol 585 XT. Its the only one to get, it just doesn't go bad. Splurged for a 5G pail of concentrate. There is a distributor in Canada, DGI in Oakville.,...maybe more
Honing Oil - 5gallon pail

If you are in Ontario, Commercial Oil in Hamilton is great. They really know their stuff and sometimes half the cost of others
 
I would really like to have an "Oil Cheat Sheet"! I know that I've spent inordinate amounts of time reading about types and weights of oil in the past. I don't seem to actually retain any of that information for any length of time! I am firmly of the opinion, however, that any oil is better than no oil! What I have now is based on the info I found related to my former lathe (Atlas 618).

For Way Oil, I too bought the KBC jug:

Way_oil_jug.jpg


For spindle oil, I went with ISO 32 Compressor oil from Canadian Tire. (The picture comes up showing ISO 68 but the description says ISO 32):


I hadn't even noticed that my new lathe recommends 20W oil for the various oil ports.

I haven't had to purchase gear oil yet but my new lathe will need an oil change for the headstock and apron before long.

Craig
 
If you are in Ontario, Commercial Oil in Hamilton is great.
That would be these folks?


I squirrelled away a note of another company in Hamilton that was recommended:


No personal experience with either place.

Craig
 
CX706 from Busy Bee
You too, eh? I haven't even opened the little can of oil that comes with it. I haven't found anything that indicates whether it is supposed to be way oil or the general 20W lubricant. I presume it is far too small to be gear oil.

What are you doing for an oil can? Consensus seems to be that the little oiler supplied with the lathe will leak oil everywhere, all the time, and yet fail to deliver any lubricant into the oil ports*! OTOH, the only decent pump oil can I have does not have a flexible spout. It isn't going to work well into the oil ports that are on horizontal surfaces. Whenever this subject comes up, people seem to recommend oil cans that are $80 or more. The cheap side of me is appalled by this! It seems like something that you should be able to buy at a yard sale for a maximum of $5.

Craig
* I can vouch that the cheap pump oil cans from Princess Auto work about as well.
 
What are you doing for an oil can?

Seems a difficult thing to do, make a decent oil can. The cheap ones can be garbage, so frustrating. I have ones that dripped or leaked at the seam and left a ring of oil everywhere or the the threads were poorly defined such that they pop apart and then there's an oil spill. Apparently still US made.

Sometime ago someone recommended to me the Goldenrod oil cans. I've bought several over the last couple of years and so far all are working as they should, no complaints, no leaks, no drips. Not cheap, but not stupid either. Best part is amazon and free delivery :)

 
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I've got two China made oil cans, one 500 cc and one 300c that I just acquired. The 300cc one was leaking at the seam and just yesterday I soldered the seam and repainted. I know it wasn't likely worth the effort but I hate throwing away. The 500cc can I always have to remember to turn the spout up when finished with it or it dribbles out (and may even siphon out?) I'm not sure if the 300cc can will do the same nut I suspect so.
 
Seems a difficult thing to do, make a decent oil can. The cheap ones can be garbage, so frustrating. I have ones that dripped or leaked at the seam and left a ring of oil everywhere or the the threads were poorly defined such that they pop apart and then there's an oil spill. Apparently still US made.

Sometime ago someone recommended to me the Goldenrod oil cans. I've bought several over the last couple of years and so far all are working as they should, no complaints, no leaks, no drips. Not cheap, but not stupid either. Best part is amazon and free delivery :)


Do these work on ball oilers???
 
See the Grizzly and PM sites, read (download) the manuals for the equivalents , Grizzly's tells you what to use.

20 or 30 way oil is what I use, the rest is what Grizzly recommends.

I have used synthetic motor oil as way oil, no issues.
 
You too, eh? I haven't even opened the little can of oil that comes with it. I haven't found anything that indicates whether it is supposed to be way oil or the general 20W lubricant. I presume it is far too small to be gear oil.

What are you doing for an oil can? Consensus seems to be that the little oiler supplied with the lathe will leak oil everywhere, all the time, and yet fail to deliver any lubricant into the oil ports*! OTOH, the only decent pump oil can I have does not have a flexible spout. It isn't going to work well into the oil ports that are on horizontal surfaces. Whenever this subject comes up, people seem to recommend oil cans that are $80 or more. The cheap side of me is appalled by this! It seems like something that you should be able to buy at a yard sale for a maximum of $5.

Craig
* I can vouch that the cheap pump oil cans from Princess Auto work about as well.
I was just going to get a couple of Goldenrod oilers - KBC has them for about $25 I think, so if I get their way oil I'll probably grab a couple. I've been a longtime watcher of the Blondihacks youtube channel and that's what she uses - she has one that she turned down to a point for general oiling and well oilers, and the stock version has a flat spot for hitting ball oilers. I don't think oil comes out until you pump it so it is fine for horizontal surfaces.
 
wouldn't 75-90 gear oil work in your gear box? its designed to work with roller bearings and hypoid gears in a rear end for tens of thousands of km (i would wager most rwd vehicles never actually get the gear oil changed in the rear)

pretty sure thats what is in my lathes gear box judging by the smell
 
ah, you may be right there. I thought SAE30 was ISO100 (which would make 75W80/90 much thicker) but I just found this on the engineer's toolbox, looks like different SAE grades apply to ISOs when it's specifically gearbox oil. And here I thought it was already confusing! So since the manual specifies Mobilgear 627 or equivalent, which is now Mobilgear 600XP 100 (an ISO 100 Extreme Pressure Gear Oil), it seems like the widely available types of 80W-90 Gear Oils would be an appropriate substitute, as they are Extreme Pressure ISO 100 gear oils.

1654480473572.webp
 
I picked up some way oil from KBC, whatever their standard one was (knock off of mobil1) and then hydraulic oil from Canadian Tire. No issues on my CX-701.
 
.....(an ISO 100 Extreme Pressure Gear Oil),......

You have to be very careful using oils designated as "EP" or "extreme pressure". These have sulphur additives that will react with the copper in brass and bronze. So if you are using EP oils and have any copper, brass or bronze parts in contact with you will eventually be screwed!
 
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