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Can this sort of vice be used for milling?
- Thread starter DPittman
- Start date
Dabbler
ersatz engineer
I've seen it done on small machines: light cuts, small HSS end mills. By the time you've broken a few end mills, you'll be ready for a milling vise.
One youtube guy, I don't remember who, uses the blue GROZ drill press vise on his RF40 for everything. He just cuts very carefully.
One youtube guy, I don't remember who, uses the blue GROZ drill press vise on his RF40 for everything. He just cuts very carefully.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Yes that is a proper milling vice, the only reasons I would consider using the drill press vice is because of the lowe profile it has. My milling machine is quite limited in its table to spi due clearance.
I probably should sell the drill press vice as I never use it for the intended purpose and then I won't have to worry about doing something I shouldn't with it.
Not ideal, and not very precise, but Ya, as long as you don't over do it.
I'm using this one until I find a proper one. This one has two ground surfaces so you can square it to the table with a machinist square.
What you posted is more for a drill press.
You can get low(er) profile milling vises.
I'm using this one until I find a proper one. This one has two ground surfaces so you can square it to the table with a machinist square.
What you posted is more for a drill press.
You can get low(er) profile milling vises.
Understood. So there is quite a bit of height difference between your milling vise and the drill vise?
trlvn
Ultra Member
A couple of Youtube channels had videos recently on side clamps for the milling machine table.
Pretty simple and not much material required. These let you take the vise right out of the height equation as long as you don't need to drill right through the workpiece.
Craig
Bofobo
M,Mizera(BOFOBO)
I think this old tony (or AvE) made a video recently of a 2piece vice, I use basically the same cheap blue soba(?) As Craig pictures above but my old drill press vice is clearly better manufactured and I have considered the swap but I’m going with a 3” or 4” Kurt type from dales machine tools in Medicine Hat once I get things rolling again
DPittman
Ultra Member
Do you ever use those low profile table clamps as in the Blondi Hacks video?
DPittman
Ultra Member
Yes 3 inches difference.
Attachments
If you look at the Stefan videos, he did a lot of work on this style of import 'grinding' vise. They are quite low profile, generally very accurate & reasonably priced. These are also good to have around anyways to clamp a vise within a vise for compound angles as you expand your tooling arsenal over time.
https://www.accusizetools.com/search-results-page?q=vise
Then the next step up is low profile 'mill' vise. I've seen them in 4,5,6" jaw increments. btw - 'm not advocating Accusize (Chinese) just showing pictures
https://www.accusizetools.com/1202-1025-6-x-8-cnc-machine-vise-system-matched-vise-bases-0-0004/
The Kurt style has more mass & rigidity. Better selection of replaceable jaws. But the tradeoff is they are elevated as much as 2" above the low profile style.
https://www.accusizetools.com/6-super-lock-precision-c-n-c-machine-vise-fa23-5206/
The caveat to all import vises is its a crap shoot. I wouldn't blink an eye on most anything from Taiwan, Vertex etc. Its usually great stuff for hobbyist precision. But they can cost nearly the same as a USA Kurt depending on the model. A less expensive Chinese vise can range from this quality level to basically a useless boat anchor, even if you buy the same brand someone a week ago was perfectly happy with.
If money is available & mill headroom sufficient & mid/upper power range then a Kurt/quality clone is probably the way to go.
If mill power, headroom & table size is more limited consider some of the other options. It really depends on the work you anticipate doing, but just be aware that tooling gobbles up the attic space under the quill very rapidly. Just mock it up with a cardboard cutout vise from catalog dimensions to get a feel.
https://www.accusizetools.com/search-results-page?q=vise
Then the next step up is low profile 'mill' vise. I've seen them in 4,5,6" jaw increments. btw - 'm not advocating Accusize (Chinese) just showing pictures
https://www.accusizetools.com/1202-1025-6-x-8-cnc-machine-vise-system-matched-vise-bases-0-0004/
The Kurt style has more mass & rigidity. Better selection of replaceable jaws. But the tradeoff is they are elevated as much as 2" above the low profile style.
https://www.accusizetools.com/6-super-lock-precision-c-n-c-machine-vise-fa23-5206/
The caveat to all import vises is its a crap shoot. I wouldn't blink an eye on most anything from Taiwan, Vertex etc. Its usually great stuff for hobbyist precision. But they can cost nearly the same as a USA Kurt depending on the model. A less expensive Chinese vise can range from this quality level to basically a useless boat anchor, even if you buy the same brand someone a week ago was perfectly happy with.
If money is available & mill headroom sufficient & mid/upper power range then a Kurt/quality clone is probably the way to go.
If mill power, headroom & table size is more limited consider some of the other options. It really depends on the work you anticipate doing, but just be aware that tooling gobbles up the attic space under the quill very rapidly. Just mock it up with a cardboard cutout vise from catalog dimensions to get a feel.
Attachments
Ok I see the type of vise you have. The “universal vise” works for very light stuff on the mill. I would not consider that a proper milling vise. I have the exact same one. It is used 99% of the time on the Tool & Cutter Grinder or the Surface Grinder when I need compound angles. Grinding forces are a fraction of milling forces and this style of vise is perfectly suited for that.
Here is what I was thinking of: https://vevor.ca/products/4-non-swi...MIjteK_PWf6gIVhRx9Ch385gHdEAYYASABEgJCpvD_BwE (not affiliated). Or as @PeterT posted above.
Yes, it is a bit of a gamble unless you spend $$$s on a Kurt, Glacern, GS, KAR, any of the European brand ones, etc. The difference in performance is an order of magnitude better, however. Parts stay put. You can take them out for inspection/fit, put them back in and you will be right back in the same spot.
Here is a little one from PA. 3.25” jaw width. 2.5” opening. 1.625” bed night. Comes with swivel base.
Just checked, they don’t seem to list it any more...
Here's one example of a riser being made,
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/warco-vmc-head-riser.81108/
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/warco-vmc-head-riser.81108/
Tom Kitta
Ultra Member
+1 what Dabbler said, it can be done. Small machine would be fine. Don't expect accuracy. Don't expect accuracy from anything you buy at BB or KMS that is a "Kurt style". Grinding style vise is precise but I would not use it on larger machine - there is a reason for how it works - I also use it sometimes in a vise in vise setup for small stuff.
You can, for bonus points, always clamp to the table. Big pain, but you get very good accuracy and no worries about Z or holding power.
You can, for bonus points, always clamp to the table. Big pain, but you get very good accuracy and no worries about Z or holding power.
DPittman
Ultra Member
Thanks for the link. I've read many times about riser blocks for many different knee mills but could not find any real info regarding the 6x26 milling machine. I will have to study that link more in depth.