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Bought a standard modern 11" series 2000

F

farmer888

Active Member
Just bought my first lathe. I will be learning to use it having no expririence with lathes or machine work. Have been wrenching on my vehicle and farm equipment and welding but never got into machining.

Would mostly be using it for simple stuff such as pins and bushings etc at least to start keeping it simple and loose tolerance work to learn.

It was sitting in a barn and wasn't quite kept oiled well enough so some light surface rust but with scotchbright NON abrasive and fine steel wool with very little pressure it came off.

Been getting it all cleaned up since it was fairly dirty.. Going to change the headstock oil, Found the manual online suggests SAE no.30 oil. What is everyone using? I can get this at Canadian tire or princess auto?
And same stuff for all the oil cups

The motor was changed from the original 208v 3 phase to a 120v single.

Anything I should know specific to this machine?

I have a bunch of hss cutters from my grandfather (he was a machinist, passed away so unfortunately no help from him) Enough to get started while learning anyway. Friend has a similar sized lathe and has acusize indexable carbide inserts.. is this something worth looking into for the future?

Thanks
 
I use the same -hydraulic oil. I prefer the ISO32, as my shop gets COLD in winter. But the shell stuff is very high quality. and lasts a *very* long time. I use Shell Tonna way oil also. You will also need to oil all the lube points - and some can be hiding...
 
Congrats, that is a very useful size, straight forward machine. I ended up doing a complete tear down of everything except the main gear box, it is a pretty simple machine to work on. Most parts are OEM available, but at eye popping prices. The manual specifies straight 30 weight in the main gear box and all the oiling points - which I understand crosses to ISO100. The ISO100 (equivalent to SAE30), seems to work fine - the shop is warm. I agree with Dabbler that a way lube is preferred on the slides. I use Mobil Vactra.
 
Congrats on the new to you machine. You will find the lathe very useful on a farm, i repaired a lot of shafts by welding then turning the worn spot. I would stick with HSS if doing this kind of work, doesn't take long to grind a cutter to shape.
 
YotaBota said:
Congrats on the new to you machine, is that the one from Oshawa?

This is what I'm running in my headstock and it's on sale!

As for tooling, I would say work with what you have for the learning curve. Carbide can be a bit delicate.
Watch a bunch of videos on sharpening HSS and go from there.
Click to expand...
no it was a different one out towards goderich. I was just in there yesterday too, Didn't think to get a pail.
 
I ran a couple different SM 13x40 machines, and they were pretty nice running rigs!

It should serve you VERY well!

I too am fond of learning to grind a HSS tool, as a start point. Carbide is nice, and can do things that HSS cannot, but it also tends to be quite expensive, when learning, as touching off against something not moving, can very often, chip the cutting edge.

Aside from that, you are NEVER without the correct tool, once you have a little time sharpening HSS behind you. You can make threading tools, for instance, with a $1 HSS blank, that would cost you upwards of $20-$30 to have in a carbide insert, and so on.

Pictures! Heck yes!
 
trevj said:
I ran a couple different SM 13x40 machines, and they were pretty nice running rigs!

It should serve you VERY well!

I too am fond of learning to grind a HSS tool, as a start point. Carbide is nice, and can do things that HSS cannot, but it also tends to be quite expensive, when learning, as touching off against something not moving, can very often, chip the cutting edge.

Aside from that, you are NEVER without the correct tool, once you have a little time sharpening HSS behind you. You can make threading tools, for instance, with a $1 HSS blank, that would cost you upwards of $20-$30 to have in a carbide insert, and so on.

Pictures! Heck yes!
Click to expand...
Yeah I've been watching some videos on sharpening hss. I have enough of it around to last for a while.
I'll get some pictures tonight hopefully to share on here
 
There are three other hss advantages.

Often mentioned is the ability to make custom form tools for odd shapes or contours. You just grind what you need.

Less often mentioned is the ability to make razor sharp tools or sharp points for those times its needed.

Seldom mentioned is shear tools. Properly adjusted, they can cut beautiful finishes in materials that normally don't finish well.
 
so spent some time on the lathe. No serious projects yet. But I tried to do some threads.. I set the threading gearbox as the chart shows, as well as the course fine selector but it seems to be cutting twice as many tpi as the chart indicates, I even set it for half the TPI and it's a lot closer but still not quite right.

And Need to align tailstock. Cuts a taper when using the tailstock, without it and a piece just in the chuck runs true even with quite a bit of stickout.
 
Doggggboy said:
I've gotta ask where are you getting hss blanks at a buck a piece?
Click to expand...
Watching the sales, at Busy Bee, KMS Tools, Thomas Skinner and Sons, and the like.

I have also used far smaller bits than some folks think are required, based upon my trying to actually break the tools I made using far smaller bit blanks than most think are 'the right size'.
 
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