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Bought a SouthBend 9” - Hints on things to look for at setup?

dave_lawson@

Active Member
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I just purchased a South Bend lathe this afternoon. I will be disassembling it at its current location and bringing it home over the weekend. It looks to be in very clean shape with very little debris or other issues. Because I will have it apart anyway, just looking for thoughts on things that I should have a look at while I have it apart before I put it back together?
 
Congratulations oin your new purchase! The lathe looks like it has received good care through the years.

I'm not a SB expert, but one thing that has been mentioned in the past when it comes to disassembly of lathes is to NOT take off the headstock. Sounds like re-alignment is a real hassle and you likely won't ever get it back on the same way.
 
I took mine apart, including removing the headstock to move it into the basement shop. Did not have any issues with assembling it. If it has all the original hardware, you will want to get some hollow ground screwdriver bits and some u shaped driver bits. Regular taper screwdrivers will chew up the nice original fasteners. There is a good book "Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe" that is full of information on these lathes. Enjoy the new machine.
 
I took mine apart, including removing the headstock to move it into the basement shop. Did not have any issues with assembling it. If it has all the original hardware, you will want to get some hollow ground screwdriver bits and some u shaped driver bits. Regular taper screwdrivers will chew up the nice original fasteners. There is a good book "Guide to Renovating the South Bend Lathe" that is full of information on these lathes. Enjoy the new machine.
Thanks for the insight. It appears all original hardware, but I had planned to swap out to Gr 8 Socket Head cap screws where feasible as I prefer the Allen wrench to flathead. There may be places where that's not possible, but I suppose I will figure that out. I would retain all original hardware in case of reselling later.

I will search out the book!

Cheers,

Dave
 
Nice machine - looks well cared for and in good condition.

I'm with @Tomc938 Dave.

Lots of users take the headstock off. Some don't have issues. Some don't have issues that they know of. And some wonder what the hell they were thinking!

If you can avoid removing the headstock it would be a good idea to leave it on. Aligning it later could be a fiasco.

Other than agreeing with Tom, I can't really recommend anything in particular to look for. Of course, there is always all the obvious stuff like bearings, bushings, worn or broken parts, etc. etc.

There are quite a few members with South Bends on here. Hopefully they will chime in soon enough.
 
My hint would be knees slightly bent reach your hand into your back pocket and pull out your wallet and open it up as wide as you can!! You didn't mention any tooling looks like a bit in the picture but that will be something to think about, that compound is screaming for a QCTP to be mounted on it. Its a real nice lathe looking in great shape good luck with it. If you don't have a manual yet good to have for things like all the the lubrication points and what products to use.
 
My hint would be knees slightly bent reach your hand into your back pocket and pull out your wallet and open it up as wide as you can!! You didn't mention any tooling looks like a bit in the picture but that will be something to think about, that compound is screaming for a QCTP to be mounted on it. Its a real nice lathe looking in great shape good luck with it. If you don't have a manual yet good to have for things like all the the lubrication points and what products to use.
QCTP is on the list. Comes with 3&4 jaw chucks, 19 pc collets, milling vertical slide, and quite a bit more.
 
QCTP is on the list. Comes with 3&4 jaw chucks, 19 pc collets, milling vertical slide, and quite a bit more.
Sounds like a nice haul. My advice is to remove the chuck and install the thread protector that goes with the collets, as well as the tailstock. Store carefully as to protect the machined surfaces. Then remove the lathe from the base, lock the carriage and carry it out with a buddy. Set it up once home, oil it up and use it before making any unnecessary repairs. And most importantly, take pictures, lots of pictures, we like pictures......
 
You will need the correct size pin spanner wrench to take apart the cross slide screw. I would go ahead and make sure you have it on hand even though you don't have plans for disassembling it. It will prevent marring up the dial surfaces when you decide to take it apart. The end of the handles also require a special or modified screw driver to take apart. Looks like a very well kept unit. I have the flat belts on mine and would prefer the v-belts. There are videos on how to adjust the end play on the spindle, just a nut. There are also thrust bearings you can install if so inclined which would eliminate any end play. You can lock the crosslide by tightening up one of the gib screws, seems to work well, might want to replace the slotted screw in that location with an allen screw though. Metal Lathe Accessories has some kits for the south bend 9. They seems to be struggling a bit though as then don't have alot in stock. I installed a longer crosslide so I could easily install a dro. Might help with parting if I install a tool post in the back.
 

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My wife and I took a King KC1022 down stairs on a 2 wheel cart. Tail stock and carriage were off, everything else including motor were still on the lathe. I refuse to remove headstocks.
If you want a bit more control on the way down, use a fridge cart.
gerrit
 
I bought the scales off of amazon:

High Precision IP67 Magnetic Scale 5um,Water-Proof,Oil-Proof,Anti-Dust,50-3000mm Magnetic Linear Encoder for Woodworker, Lathe,Milling Machine,Bridgeport (550mm~820mm/22''~32'')

High Precision IP67 Magnetic Scale 5um,Water-Proof,Oil-Proof,Anti-Dust,50-3000mm Magnetic Linear Encoder for Woodworker, Lathe,Milling Machine,Bridgeport (Slim Scale 120mm/5'')

I used touchdro for the interface. I bought the kit that you have to solder the connections and things, takes a bit of time, but not difficult. The way I have it set up you wouldn't be able to mount a steady rest without removing the crosslide scale, but I don't have a steady rest...yet, so not a big deal. I can send some more pictures once my phone charges up.
 
Another question: Have heard great things about link belts, but they don't handle reverse well. Wondering if the torque typically in reverse would be an issue, as I've read some people say they work ok in other applications.
 
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