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Tool Anyone own a metal cutting circular saw?
- Thread starter David
- Start date
Tool
Thanks Perry, guess I should have done a search first
I have a Steelmax. Its been great, but I really only use it on long cuts on sheet material because I have torches/chopsaw/bandsaw for shorter cross cuts.. Same blade for 10 years, still going strong, probably 400'-500'ish on 1/8 to 3/8" steel and aluminium.
Wear FULL PPE, don't skimp. It throws chunks of hot metal despite being fully guarded. The shrapnel flies and bounces and one to the cheek will disfigure you.
To me, it doesn't seem right...like using a carbide wood router bit on steel, but it works, it cuts fantastic. and is fast, and leaves a very clean edge.
Wear FULL PPE, don't skimp. It throws chunks of hot metal despite being fully guarded. The shrapnel flies and bounces and one to the cheek will disfigure you.
To me, it doesn't seem right...like using a carbide wood router bit on steel, but it works, it cuts fantastic. and is fast, and leaves a very clean edge.
skippyelwell
Ultra Member
For cutting aluminum, thin sheet metal, old wood or masonry I use the crappiest circular saw I have at the moment, pick them up at garage sales. The good circular saw is only for new wood.
MashingMetal
Well-Known Member
Aluminum Lubricant Wax stick is your friend regardless of the blade.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
I have cut a few miles of 1/2"-1 1/2" al tooling plate with either a regular old circular saw or worm drive with a diablo metal blade. Sometimes just a regular Diablo wood blade too. Glasses, and ear protection a must. Full face shield highly recommended. I like using a wax stick/bandsaw blade lube rubbed on the blade before use. Saw will cut just fine and you will feel how fast to feed it, just don't force it too fast. Chips will go everywhere, don't do it in your driveway 
.
If you're in the money spending mood, those milwaukee plate saws are wondrous tools. Was recently on a job where I got to use one to cut up a bunch 1/2" steel plate and it went through like it was nothing. Not cheap, but the right tool for the job.
.If you're in the money spending mood, those milwaukee plate saws are wondrous tools. Was recently on a job where I got to use one to cut up a bunch 1/2" steel plate and it went through like it was nothing. Not cheap, but the right tool for the job.
Ironman
Ultra Member
I have a Propoint 14" saw from PA and a Milwaukee 8" metal saw.
The big cost is the blades. I found that the KMS Tools Metal Devil lasts the longest in the Milwaukee, where the problem of the cut off piece hinging before it falls off and crushing a carbide is the issue.
On the 14" saw, I have used many different $180 to $200 blades. Tenryu makes a good cutting blade but mystery metal would sooner or later kill it. This became a very expensive saw to use.
One day in desperation, as I wandered around in Princess, I saw a 14" Chinese saw blade for 46 bucks, 50% off. What the hell, worth trying. I took it home and tried it on the same mystery metal that ripped the teeth off the Tenryu blade, and it cut like butter and hardly scraped the paint off the teeth. I drove back in and bought 8 more of them. I am still using the first PA blade a year later.
Aluminum is so gooey that a ordinary skills aw with a wood blade will cut it and gum up just like a fancy blade. I hose the blade with WD40 before and during the cut to prevent this.
The big cost is the blades. I found that the KMS Tools Metal Devil lasts the longest in the Milwaukee, where the problem of the cut off piece hinging before it falls off and crushing a carbide is the issue.
On the 14" saw, I have used many different $180 to $200 blades. Tenryu makes a good cutting blade but mystery metal would sooner or later kill it. This became a very expensive saw to use.
One day in desperation, as I wandered around in Princess, I saw a 14" Chinese saw blade for 46 bucks, 50% off. What the hell, worth trying. I took it home and tried it on the same mystery metal that ripped the teeth off the Tenryu blade, and it cut like butter and hardly scraped the paint off the teeth. I drove back in and bought 8 more of them. I am still using the first PA blade a year later.
Aluminum is so gooey that a ordinary skills aw with a wood blade will cut it and gum up just like a fancy blade. I hose the blade with WD40 before and during the cut to prevent this.
Last edited by a moderator:
Canadium
Ian
Ya! I have the Evolution! Totally love it! Makes fabulous clean straight cuts in steel plate. I think they have a special blade for aluminum.
I have used the diablo metal cut blades in my Dewalt cordless and corded skill saws. Not cutting very thick stuff but I have used it dozens of times to plunge cut into jb’s for touch screens and filter sets. Cut 100s of pieces of unistrut as well. We used to make and mount solar combiner box mounts on site. Used my cordless band saw to cut the all thread. I think I’m on my 3rd blade. So they do last. Cut slow and steady let the blade do the work. Don’t force it. I’ve also cut a pile of soffit when I did the house Reno. Super loud and throws bits all over.
I have also used the cold cut chopsaws but they were the shops so no idea on the blades. Cut a lot of angle and unistrut with them easily.
I have also used the cold cut chopsaws but they were the shops so no idea on the blades. Cut a lot of angle and unistrut with them easily.
Downwindtracker2
Super User
I've used many tubs of ZipCuts. Walter makes a ZipCut for aluminum, it works well. I have and used a Freud carbide aluminum blade. Again use in an unloved skilsaw. Mine is a Milwaukee .At work we would use plain wood carbide blades in a skilsaw . Jigsaws have to be variable speed and used real sssloow .
A cold cut saw looks to be interesting, but expensive.
A cold cut saw looks to be interesting, but expensive.
KeeponDragon
no problems... just challenges
I got lucky and found a retired chop saw for aluminum on FB marketplace...It's old, like late 80's old.
Got it for cheap, as the seller had been hanging onto it for about a decade and hadn't done anything with it...
Came with a 3 phase, 400something volt motor...all mounted to a cast iron miter table...and the aluminum cutting blade...
I can't recall the name of it (I'm currently at work) but the company that builds em is still in business I think, out of California.
Sold the motor, swapped in a 1 phase motor, figured out pulley sizes for the speed needed and put a Diablo 72 tooth blade in it.
It cuts everything I need it to.
Got it for cheap, as the seller had been hanging onto it for about a decade and hadn't done anything with it...
Came with a 3 phase, 400something volt motor...all mounted to a cast iron miter table...and the aluminum cutting blade...
I can't recall the name of it (I'm currently at work) but the company that builds em is still in business I think, out of California.
Sold the motor, swapped in a 1 phase motor, figured out pulley sizes for the speed needed and put a Diablo 72 tooth blade in it.
It cuts everything I need it to.
FWIW - I use my (wood) 10" table saw (Ridgid) and 10" miter saw (Makita) to cut metal (and aluminum). I've had success using blades from a variety of manufacturers (metal or aluminum). I feed steadily, slowly, and spray with appropriate cutting oil. I do not cut any small pieces. The blade life is reduced due to the high rpm (vs using a dry-cut metal saw working at a much lower rpm). I use a 10" or 7" diameter blade but prefer the 7" because of the reduce the sfpm. The smaller-diameter blade also has a smaller kerf. I get a very smooth and accurate finish compared to the metal band saw. I have cut up to 1/4" plate on the table saw and 5/8" x 3" flat bar on the miter saw.
On the miter saw, the work is secured with several clamps so that when the cut is finished, both pieces remain solidly clamped. I made some custom clamps to help hold the work down as well as up against the fence. If the smaller end is hard to clamp or secure, I stop the cut at 80 or 90% and finish with the quick cut or band saw. I cut with no hands on the work & both hands on the miter saw handle.
On the miter saw, the work is secured with several clamps so that when the cut is finished, both pieces remain solidly clamped. I made some custom clamps to help hold the work down as well as up against the fence. If the smaller end is hard to clamp or secure, I stop the cut at 80 or 90% and finish with the quick cut or band saw. I cut with no hands on the work & both hands on the miter saw handle.
That is a nice saw. I did a big comparison a while ago of these hand-held metal saws. It would be my first choice. I just might get one.