• Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.

Anyone know much about 18650 batteries??

Rotaxxx

Member
I got a few flashlights here that need new 18650 batteries and while looking to replace them I have found some are protected, some are not. Which ones should I get? Which brands should I look at? And last but not least! What charger is the best for them? Thanks all!
 
They are a different form format of Lithium Ion chemistry. So they have high energy density relative to older cells like Alkline, NiMh, NiCD. They also have a higher C-rating. That wont affect anything like a flashlight but would on any device that delivers high current relative to its nominal storage capacity (power tools). You need a charger that 'knows' this chemistry because it has a specific input voltage & ramp-up cycle. Which brands I cant recommend because they vary so much & who knows what's under the shrink wrap anyways. 90% comes from China but a myriad of grades. A lithium no-no is to allow it to drop below its terminal voltage. If it goes dead, its done. Also be aware of some Lion smart cells (or whatever they are called). I don't think they are as popular in this form factor but basically they have little on-board circuitry in the cell end that helps manages the charging & discharge duties.

Back to your basic question, I have an Amazon LED flashlight that I can either use an 1860 or 3 AAA cells, just swap out the plastic adapter. The math says Amazon Basics like alkaline cells were actually better $/mah value so that's what I run.
 
Thanks for the reply, it gives me something to think about, the flashlights I have are LED and are high draw ones. The one is actually a cordless spotlight, and the other is a cordless work light. The LEDs in them are single units and large, so I think they probably draw a fair amount. So I think sticking with rechargeable batteries would be best as they drain batteries fairly quick. From what I understand in your post I should get protected batteries then, and I will just pick up a charger from the place I get the batteries from.
 
Id stick with samsung and Sony cells, from my experience with the cells.
Lots of re-wraps out there, will claim more power but you peel that off and more than likely it'll be a samsung or a Sony cell.
Dewalt, Milwaukee, mikita they all use Sony or samsung
 
I wasn't aware the proper term is protected / unproteced (what I was loosely calling the on board circuitry that you don't normally see on naked cells which is the norm.
BTW, there are all kinds of lithium flavours & also varying maH capacity for the same form factor. I've heard good things about Eneloops as another brand.
https://commonsensehome.com/18650-battery/

Generally these are in the what I would call low discharge class like ~1C. So if nominal capacity is 2850 maH, it means rated to discharge at 2.85 amps at its nominal voltage. But they have a higher nominal cell voltage (3-4v) so you are getting more power compared to a Alkaline or Ni* based cell, which is why they need to be stacked in in series. Just for side reference, hobby grade lithium polymer cells are bucking out 50-60C continuous, 100-120C burst with no end in sight. Take that Tesla. (In all fairness a fender bender would probably melt a sinkhole in the asphalt).
 
Back
Top