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4 x 6 Bandsaw Table

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
I finally got tired of the POS tin table that came with my saw and built a new one. I remembered seeing one in a post my @DavidR8,
, and decided to give it a shot.

I had some 1.5" HSS and an old .196" motor plate and got to work. Used the saw to cut the HSS and the slot in the plate, welded things together and now I have a new table. The main advantage is that the table is much more stable and secure and I just need to use the vise on the saw to mount the table.

My welds are actually starting to look like real welds, the 50' of welding on the bumpers for practice didn't hurt. lol

1711500650037.jpeg
1711500674062.jpeg


I found another table by @Six O Two, https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/4x6-bandsaw-cart-and-improvements.6785/, that's cool as well but only found it after I completed this one.
 
That’s a good design. I like it more than mine which uses the two screws as the attachment.
Mine uses a couple of screws as well. The only thing keeping me from doing one of the vise mount tables is how much space it takes up. I don't use the table vertically all that often. Nice build though.
 
That’s a good design. I like it more than mine which uses the two screws as the attachment.
That's how I did mine as well, as big as it could be towards the saw to just barely clear so I can leave it on while using it horizontally.

@Six O Two 's cart looks really nice, I need to do the extended vise jaws with a thread hole too, add it to the list:confused:

@YotaBota what are you using for a welder? Looks good!
 
I finally got tired of the POS tin table that came with my saw and built a new one. I remembered seeing one in a post my @DavidR8,
, and decided to give it a shot.

I had some 1.5" HSS and an old .196" motor plate and got to work. Used the saw to cut the HSS and the slot in the plate, welded things together and now I have a new table. The main advantage is that the table is much more stable and secure and I just need to use the vise on the saw to mount the table.

My welds are actually starting to look like real welds, the 50' of welding on the bumpers for practice didn't hurt. lol

View attachment 46000View attachment 46001

I found another table by @Six O Two, https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/4x6-bandsaw-cart-and-improvements.6785/, that's cool as well but only found it after I completed this one.
Looks good!

I didn’t watch the video - (@Susquatch must be rubbing off on me) where does the HSS go?
 
I inherited an extra 4x6. I wasn't using it and it was taking up valuable floor space, so I converted it to permanent vertical. It gets used as much as the horizontal.

I seem to switch back and forth regularly too. It isn't really a great horizontal saw. If I ever got another bigger one, I'd convert this one to permanent vertical in a heart beat. All it really needs is a bigger better table. Easy peasy to make. Prolly do that anyway.

Only problem is finding an affordable horizontal band saw.

Thanks for the idea!
 
@Jswain - the welder is a Miller 180 Autoset Mig, the wire is Lincoln flux core .035 that I got from HD. The autoset may be okay on gas wire, .024 or .030, but didn't work for me on the .035 flux core. It just took some playing manually to get the feed and heat right.

@Tomc938 - HSS is Hollow Structural Steel, I probably should have just said square tube.
(@Susquatch must be rubbing off on me)
If you start growing fur your in trouble, I don't think you can get shots for that. lol
 
I just went with large horizontal saw - universal - I think mine is like 18". Through it cuts wood more often then metal (!)

Its good at cutting plate / odd things that don't fit into vertical saw. Use it often. The only machine I have that is native 600v.
 
@Jswain - the welder is a Miller 180 Autoset Mig, the wire is Lincoln flux core .035 that I got from HD. The autoset may be okay on gas wire, .024 or .030, but didn't work for me on the .035 flux core. It just took some playing manually to get the feed and heat right.

@Tomc938 - HSS is Hollow Structural Steel, I probably should have just said square tube.

If you start growing fur your in trouble, I don't think you can get shots for that. lol
Pay close attention to the wire tension on the 180 autosets. Use as little as possible. Too much and it will wear the shaft or bushing in the wire drive motor & then slip on the wire/feed inconsistent. Then most people crank it down more which burns out the motor.

I fixed one machining a new shaft and silver soldering the gear back on which is easy enough but they are very proud of the wire drive motors(especially by the time you get it to canada$$$)

If you look at the next generation(210 or whatever it is) drive motors they came out with the shaft & bronze bushings are much larger so I'm guessing it was a common failure
 
Pay close attention to the wire tension on the 180 autosets
Will do, I normally back the tension off after use but I'll pay more attention to setting the tension. The book says to set the tension to have the wire not stall but bend as it's feed against a piece of wood but I'll see how low it will go. I'm using a 10lb spool but I imagine a 1lb spool would be lighter on the tension. The 10lb spool was only about $50 so much less extensive than the 1lb spools.
 
Will do, I normally back the tension off after use but I'll pay more attention to setting the tension. The book says to set the tension to have the wire not stall but bend as it's feed against a piece of wood but I'll see how low it will go. I'm using a 10lb spool but I imagine a 1lb spool would be lighter on the tension. The 10lb spool was only about $50 so much less extensive than the 1lb spools.
Actually I believe because of the size/mechanical ratio the 10lb spools will feed easier, the spool tension should be as minimal as possible too just to stop it from getting loose when you let off.

I usually set wire tension with a glove on my hand so that it is fairly tough but I can stop the wire with my thumb and a finger.

You'll notice if it's too loose wire will randomly burn back to the tip when settings should be set correct, or the bead profile will change when travel speed remains the same.

If all of a sudden it takes more tension then usual probably a good indicator to blow out the liner or pull it and check for kinks
 
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